I've been told NOT to use steel wool on projects to achieve fine surfaces. It will rust causing unwanted lines or blotches. However I have used 0000 steel wool on my lathe projects for years and never once seen any kind of problem.

 

 

What is the story?

 

 

I have heard the same thing as well. Most of your finishes now are water based as opposed to older oil based finishes so there is a greater chance of rust with the steel wool.

I use it on oil based poly but not water based. Also, I tend to shy away from it on very open grains- red oak or wormy wood. The tiny fragments are really hard to remove from the recesses.

I have used it on many projects. I normally use oil based finishes. I have also used it for applying a wax finish and never had a problem. But really liked the finish that I got with it.

Never thought about water based products causing rust..............makes sense. I don't use water based products on any wood projects. I did use a water based dye/stain on a grandfather clock and it was a disaster. When I used a poly finish on top of it..............IT TURNED BLACK!!

Like the others Ron, I only use it for rubbing out an oil based finish, since I have yet to use a water based finish, I could not comment on that factor.

You can also use a brown paper bag soaked in mineral spirits to rub out an oil based finish, I have in the last couple years turned that method and love it. The brown paper bag has the about the same grade a .0000 wool. But you won't get those pesky wipe down streaks if you over do it with the wool, you cannot over do it with a brown paper bag.

 

I'm with the others that say they use it on finishes and NOT on wood. John, good point with the brown paper bag - that being said, with all the plastic bags being used, it's tough to find the paper bags.

Go back into the Archives and you will find many articles and responses written by me for using 0000 steel wool to "finish the finish."  I think there is a Blog about it too that I wrote some time ago.

 

Every piece of furniture I make is finished with 0000 steel wool and a 100% Carnauba paste wax called "TreWax."

 

Larry

 

 

 

A great topic, bumped up to our live forums from the archives. A very relevant question still. Any feedback?

All my finish regimes end with carnuba wax applied with Liberon 0000 steel wool.

45 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

All my finish regimes end with carnuba wax applied with Liberon 0000 steel wool.

why not non-woven pads...

 

 

color-grading non- woven pads.pdf

COLOR CODES NON-WOVEN PADS.pdf

To me, it's one f those things like using dewaxed shellac under urethane resin finishes. There is almost always someone who has done it and not had problems. Same with steel wool, there are folks who have used it and not had problems. But, why take a chance? So I have steel wool in the shop, but it's for cleaning rust off cast iron surfaces and such things. I don't use it for any finishing.

Seldom use steel wool anymore except for cleaning rust as Fred describes. I've migrated almost exclusively to synthetic wool (e.g Scotch Brite pads). Began that regime years ago in the manufacturing environment for fear steel fibers would separate into oil or fuel system passages. Similar to the concerns of entrapment into wood fibers using water base finishes.

 

Interesting reading John's comments from a couple years ago about using brown paper bags and mineral spirits for rubbing out finishes. Never considered that even though I used crumbled brown paper bags soaked in diesel fuel or calibration oil for years to 'polish/clean' internal diesel fuel injection components or lap hydraulic components. Makes perfect sense for oil based finishes.

Using steel wool to apply wax is a personal habit. Just like rubbing down finishes with the synthetic pads prior to the wax. 

Or salting watermelon.

It seems that the older I get, the harder it is to move out of that comfort zone. 

Although, I do drive at the speed limit now. That's a change.

I think I'll stick with steel wool and oil based finishes, though.

And, keep on salting my watermelon.

 

I think the main problem is when steel wool is used between coats of finish.   If shards are left behind (as they are wont to do), they can become embedded in the next coat.   Then you have steel next to your wood and moisture can react with tannins in the wood to make black spots or on light finishes, rusty spots

IF one is worried about shards of steel wool being left behind....just pass a magnet over the surface.....it is STEEL wool, after all...

 

Of course, a good, clean tack rag will clean that stuff off, too...

On ‎12‎/‎17‎/‎2013 at 4:59 PM, Fred Wilson said:

I'm with the others that say they use it on finishes and NOT on wood. John, good point with the brown paper bag - that being said, with all the plastic bags being used, it's tough to find the paper bags.

I know this was an old post but:

I always ask for paper - being a displaced timber worker, I like to support the timber industry by using paper instead of plastic.

1 hour ago, kmealy said:

I think the main problem is when steel wool is used between coats of finish.   If shards are left behind (as they are wont to do), they can become embedded in the next coat.   Then you have steel next to your wood and moisture can react with tannins in the wood to make black spots or on light finishes, rusty spots

I'm w/ you Keith...

the moment ''what if'' enters the game.. it's time for plan ''B''..

 

 

12 hours ago, steven newman said:

IF one is worried about shards of steel wool being left behind....just pass a magnet over the surface.....it is STEEL wool, after all...

 

Of course, a good, clean tack rag will clean that stuff off, too...

Assuming you get it ALL.   Why risk it, spend a buck or two on some Scotch-Brite.

Risk?   Check out the last three projects I've done.....no residue remained.   Even that simple , little box of Cherry....