Found it in the pdfs 2 heaping tablespoons per quart of distilled water.

On 5/9/2026 at 12:06 PM, Michael Thuman said:

Thanks as always I have applied the bleach and awaiting it to dry out. When I go to rinse it do I use distilled water? What is best method to protect the surrounding wood. What I mean by that is can I use several rags soaked in distilled water and wipe with the grain ?

All stripping is done and one peice of a split fell of glued it back on but had to hold with tape so glue squeezed out and I sanded flush pluse there is a divit in the center of the peice where I used "stainable wood filler" which is was not but after dying with light oak then staining the two spots show so a marker was used to hide them. Applied a light coat of poly and now awaiting General Finishes water based varnish and 400 and 600 grit sand paper wet/dry to knock down the dust nibs. So far everything is going well. I even got the sap wood peice to blend in with color.

Once done will post pictures.

Oh bye the way the baking soda wash worked well and after one fizzer application the other one did not react so then rinsed agan with distilled water.

Thanks all.

On 5/19/2026 at 3:39 PM, Michael Thuman said:

All stripping is done and one peice of a split fell of glued it back on but had to hold with tape so glue squeezed out and I sanded flush pluse there is a divit in the center of the peice where I used "stainable wood filler" which is was not but after dying with light oak then staining the two spots show so a marker was used to hide them. Applied a light coat of poly and now awaiting General Finishes water based varnish and 400 and 600 grit sand paper wet/dry to knock down the dust nibs. So far everything is going well. I even got the sap wood peice to blend in with color.

Once done will post pictures.

Oh bye the way the baking soda wash worked well and after one fizzer application the other one did not react so then rinsed agan with distilled water.

Thanks all.

Here it is all done and looking new

Awesome!!

Nice!

That's quite the improvement, well done.

On 5/2/2026 at 12:57 PM, Gerald said:

I would lightly sand and apply a gel stain of a darker color. If the rings and scratches still show it is just a part of your heritage.

I second this!

Well gents the project wa going well except for the poly that did not want to adhear. GF said this is probably and oil based stain that we put on less that 72 hours before applying their finish.

So when I stripped it again to remove the poly I discovered it was a veneer coat and the stripper actually compromized the gulue to the substrate and warped the veneer badly.

After removing the affected veneer I am left with quite a mess.

The stain on the left side had not had poly applied on the right and middle it had been applied and it lifted in several places.

If you zoom in the front it appears they capped the plywood with 1/8" veneer which was also not striped.

The peice of veneer goes under the solid pine windows.

But is largley still in place despite years of water damage.

Here are the options.

1. Remove the oak and paint the seat the appropaite color to match the cushion. Probably going to be problematic at the pine that overlays.

2. Leave the oak fill the voids with filler and paint.

3. Remove the oak veneer and replace with another sheet of veneer. Probably the most work but the best result.

   in all the cases above the veneer and substrate would be appropiatedly stained as the left is the golden Oak minwax oil base stain then everything go under a think coat of poly (plus 2 weeks to let the oil cure) or Ultra deep base paint.

   Which wold you chose?

   If you choose 3 please detail how to perpare the substrate and glue the veneer in place.

Your situation is strikingly like the problem we had with our "garden window" albeit ours was a smaller scale.

I pulled off the veneer and was lucky enough to have space below the window winding mechanism that I could slide a piece of 1/8" thick plywood under it and not affect the operation. Was able to add a very thin strip to "raise" the upper edge of the window molding to match the reveal of the other three sides. Have had to do this twice since we added the room due to condensation during the winter. We have a non-vented propane "fireplace" in that room.

This is a tough one, but I think I would remove the old veneer and replace it. The are 2 approaches I would consider for the new veneer. The first would be to buy paper backed veneer and apply solvent based contact cement on it to adhere to the substrate. By cutting the veneer to fit and trying it in the space you should be able to get a nice fit. Installing it might be tricky since the veneer and substrate will grab once they touch but I think could be done if your careful with the veneer. The second (which isn't much different than the first) would be to use peel and stick veneer, the kind with pressure sensitive adhesive on it. But if I used it I would still put contact cement on the substrate. I've done this when refacing cabinets and it's absolutely amazing how well this sticks. But this approach would probably take more care in applying the veneer. That's because the "grab" function doing this is probably several times more hard to deal with versus the 1st choice. Given the task at hand I might well choose the paper backed since it seems to me it would be a little easier. You should get a durable surface with either one.

On 7/4/2026 at 3:29 PM, lew said:

Your situation is strikingly like the problem we had with our "garden window" albeit ours was a smaller scale.

I pulled off the veneer and was lucky enough to have space below the window winding mechanism that I could slide a piece of 1/8" thick plywood under it and not affect the operation. Was able to add a very thin strip to "raise" the upper edge of the window molding to match the reveal of the other three sides. Have had to do this twice since we added the room due to condensation during the winter. We have a non-vented propane "fireplace" in that room.

As this portion of the window is covered with a seat cushion we decided to leave it as it is. I will seal all surfaces in Poly then put back the cushion to hide the defects.

Does any one know why the veneer start to warp so badly we is that the citrus stripper has enough water in it to get the wood wet enought to react this way?