Per @John Morris request here is an alternative box joint jig, using a router, no fine tuning needed, and allows variable width keys, if desired.

Nice tip Keith! And thanks for separating your idea and tip, definitely deserves a topic of it's own. You could do this for narrow pins all the way up to larger finger joints, correct? As long as you have the router bits to accommodate?

Also, how the Orion work out, still have it?

Looks simple enough. The only thing is that the actual finger and slot openings are slightly rounded where on a tablesaw setup they are 90°.

4 minutes ago, MrRick said:

Looks simple enough. The only thing is that the actual finger and slot openings are slightly rounded where on a tablesaw setup they are 90°.

The router bit clears the wood being cut, into the center strip, so they are square, not rounded. The guide strips are inset from the center piece, You can see the cut-out on the center piece for the first few cuts and the uncut ones on the right in the photo.

Edited February 5Feb 5 by kmealy

35 minutes ago, John Morris said:

Nice tip Keith! And thanks for separating your idea and tip, definitely deserves a topic of it's own. You could do this for narrow pins all the way up to larger finger joints, correct? As long as you have the router bits to accommodate?

Also, how the Orion work out, still have it?

Yes, the finger width must be at least as wide as the router bit you're using. I think my smallest jig cuts 1/2" fingers and the largest 7/8.

I still have the moisture meter, but have not had a need to use it yet. But I have some air-dried cherry and walnut in the shed that I'll use it on some day.

Edited February 5Feb 5 by kmealy

Looks like that one might be easier to use as well.

I posted this as an option on a FB post. Someone asked for a video on construction. I don't do videos, so I wrote up the steps:
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1. Determine the width you want your joints to be. This is the width of your guide pieces. They can all be the same or you can have some wider than others.

2. Look at your top-bearing bit to determine how deep you want the cut (the thickness of wood you will be joining). Use this to determine the thickness of the guides.

3. Cut strips to the width and thickness from steps 1 & 2 and about twice as long as your wood to be join's thickness

4. Get a piece about 1.5-2" wide for the center support. A 2x4 works OK. Make it as long as the widest piece you will be joining

5. Attach a piece on one end to provide a stop. Have it come up no more than the thickness of your guide pieces.

6. Attach the guide pieces with glue and nails tight to each other. Leave the end over the 2x4 back far enough on the opposite side so your bit will pass into the 2x4 enough to square the corners on the other side.

7. With your router set up, cut one side on side A and the other on side B. The bit depth should be just a bit over the thickness of the wood you are joining. This is so you can sand off the excess end grain to level.

Thanx, Keith. Don't know how I missed this one the first time around. I haven't done any box joints due to the very good chance that I will screw it up. But this jig looks like even I will be able to make it work.

The problem I've always had with the usual jigs is getting them aligned just right. Videos always seem to go a Norm, "Yeah, perfect." I once tried doing 1/4" joints on a piece that was about 14" tall. If you're off 0.001" that makes you 0.056" by the time you get to the end. I don't think they make a 1/4" bearing guided bit, but anyway.