Bought some laminate for some bench tops.

I need to cut this.  

1st choice table saw fine blade and cut slowly.

2nd choice cut with a razor and snap it.

How do you cut laminate.

If it chips some that is fine I always go +1/2" both length and width.

 

Hey Michael, what kind of laminate, wood, composite, Formica sort of stuff or?

Well was supposed to be formica but this stuff breaks with just looking at it.  It is very thin laminate from Home Depot supposedly formica.

I am putting this over plywood which will be sanded smooth with all cracks and holes sealed with plastic wood.

The laminate/plywood will be used and outfeed and in feed tables to be BS for me to process logs.

It may have hundreds of pounds on it at any given time.

 

Not sure if this helps but when doing vinyl siding, you put the circular saw blade on backwards. Cuts without chipping. 

Attach blue painters tape along the cut line and use an 80 tooth blade.

Slap a sacrificial piece of OSB or plywood on top and cut.  Reduces chipping greatly.  Go slow and steady. 

 

Do the edges 1st, then glue top. Get a roller to get good downward pressure to get a good bond between the two surfaces.

 

Add 1/2 inch to each side so you have more than needed.  Once you glue it down let it cure for day or so then use a flush bit router to smooth it out.  They have a glue bit 15 or  30 degree router bit that you can go over that smooth edge with.  Then take a smooth file and gently smooth the edges of any burrs.

 

If you don't have a smooth file take 220 grit sandpaper and put on a block and gently sand slightly.  Clean any glue residue with mineral spirits but wait a few days otherwise it might affect the glue bonding.   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ignore the red circles, they were different application.  Do notice the edges of the top before Formica was added.   I prefer to not try and glue to edged plywood or MDF but use poplar instead.  Better bond with the glue in my opinion.  

 

This picture was preparing the dust collection ports for my table saws before mounting.

 

 

 

 

 

2 hours ago, lew said:

Not sure if this helps but when doing vinyl siding, you put the circular saw blade on backwards. Cuts without chipping. 

I'll vouch for this. Can be a little iffy if ambient air is below 32°. I always used an 80t plywood blade on my RAS.

2 hours ago, Ron Dudelston said:

Attach blue painters tape along the cut line and use an 80 tooth blade.

Yep, this has worked well for me at least on MDF/ particle board panels with laminate pre-applied.

 

If you're planning to make lots of cuts, you may want to invest in one of THESE.

Like Gunny basically said, cut it wild a half inch or so, glue it down, then flush trim it with a router. You are only rough cutting it on the table saw, use a fine tooth blade for laminate or plywood it'll work just fine, make sure the lead edge is firm flat on the in-feed so it doesn't jump and grab when the blade touches the laminate, then feed it steady, you'll get little chips but it don't matter, those will disappear when you flush trim it after glue up.

Welp, re reading your original post, yes, you got it! 1st choice, and you cut it with extra anyway, so you are good to go!

I have always used the tablesaw and using Gunny's method the router will take off any chips.  I raise the blade so it just breaks the surface and as was said keep the sheet flat on the saw, push blocks can help with  this. Push blocks unlike push sticks have a wide flat surface which presses the material down.

I've also used the table saw, but with a high tooth count blade as Ron mentioned. One problem I always had with the thinner laminate was using the fence. It always wanted to slide under the fence body. I took care of that by using a small piece of aluminum angle. The piece I bought is only 1/2" x 1/2" and about 1/16" thick. I put it next to the fence on the table, and lay the edge of the laminate on it to keep it from sliding under the fence body. Works fairly well, but you do have to keep an eye on it if since it moves with the laminate.

Thanks all leaving 1/2" over was also my plan then flush trim router then very carefully trim a 30 to 45 chamfer to the formica to prevent the logs from ripping it up.

Also I will then mill with a 3/4" bit and 3/4" wide and 3/8" deep to act as a pilot for the hardwood runner under the slab fixture.

The will take very critical alignment on the infeed and out feed tables to the band saw slot.

The rough cut will first be tested with my 80 tooth blade and see how much chip I get if too much tape it or add a sacrificial piece on top to keep the laminate frozen to that it cannot be chipped.  Before milling my slot I will make sure the bond is fully cured.

most of you recommended an 80t 10" blade but I only have a 60T 10" blade.  I will try that and report back.

If it's negative hook it will work really well, and if it's not it should still do the job.

I used  whatever  is on the table saw to cut it.. Ive scored it with a knife  and snapped it. I’ve used a router.

 

Edited January 13, 20251 yr by BillyJack