Buffing On a Slow Or High Speed Grinder

[John Morris]

Good day folks, just to set up the question here. I have two grinders, an older Delta high speed grinder that I bought 20 plus years ago and I have a generic no name slow speed grinder someone gave me 10 years ago.

 

I want to delve into buffing, I've never done it before. My goal is to obtain a high polished glossy appearance on raw wood and finished wood. And, I need to stay very low on costs, like perhaps 50 bucks or so, nothing fancy, if that is possible.

 

Here are my questions

1. Which of the two grinders in my possession should I use?
2. What type of buffing wheel(s) do I need?
3. And what compounds do I need?

If I am missing anything important here, please feel free to let me know, thanks in advance!

[lew]

This might help

 

https://www.finewoodworking.com/forum/buffing-speed#:~:text=The important thing here is,4%2C000 surface feet per minute.

 

https://www.penturners.org/threads/beall-buffing-rpm.35857/

 

https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/buffing-speed.10671/

 

https://www.pfonline.com/articles/buffing-polishing-the-need-for-speed

Edited September 3, 2023 by lew

[John Morris]

1 hour ago, lew said:

This might help

 

https://www.finewoodworking.com/forum/buffing-speed#:~:text=The important thing here is,4%2C000 surface feet per minute.

 

https://www.penturners.org/threads/beall-buffing-rpm.35857/

 

https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/buffing-speed.10671/

 

https://www.pfonline.com/articles/buffing-polishing-the-need-for-speed

 

Well heck Lew, I could've done that, I want you fine folks to chime in and give me your opinions!

[Gene Howe]

John, I have a VS grinder but I don't use it for buffing smaller stuff. For most things I use a buffing pad in a drill. I charge it with green Dialux. I've never tried it on unfinished wood. 

Edited September 3, 2023 by Gene Howe

[forty_caliber]

I'll chime in but not as an enabler this time. 

 

I purchased a Beall buffing system for the lathe.  Followed the instructions, and found the results to be less than stellar.  One of the buffing wheels shredded apart shortly after the wood touched.  Filled the shop with white strings and lint.  

v

Getting past that, I did get the system to work.  Kind of mediocre...meh.  It was time consuming and messy.  Visually I can achieve the similar results with a paper towel and some Acks.  

 

How would you use a buffing system in the flat?

 

.40

[Sprinter78]

I have used buffing wheels made by Dico, I got them at Ace Hardware about 9.00 or 10.00 each. I have not used them on wood.

My use was to polish a bunch of aluminum parts for a sprint car. I will say that on a high speed grinder it generates a lot of heat  in the piece your buffing and you have to really hang on or the part will go flying. Of your two choices of high speed or a variable low speed. I would probably go with the low speed option if you would even want to try it.

 

Even a variable slow speed grinder may be a bit to fast for what you want to do. and it is messy with the buffing compounds and lint and strings off the buffing wheels. a dust mask and safety glasses are a good idea.

My guess if that if you try buffing a bowl and happen to catch the rim of the bowl you will probably see the bowl take flight.

[Gerald]

I use the Beall Buff system. I have a dedicated low speed grinder with two extensions. I use the 8 inch buffs mostly, but also have the 2 and 4 inch ball buffs. There is a learning curve to buffing bowls . To start with the buffs @forty_caliberDo have a break in and with give off lots and lots of lint. That is just shaking out all that cotton and does not affect the buff. When you buff you are not trying to push the object thru the buff just a gentle light touch. Press too hard and will buff off your finish especially lacquer DAMHIKT. As to plain wood I have buffs some exotics but do not suggest for domestics even tho they will buff just not real good results.

 

     When buffing bowls and any turning with a opening the best way is to hold the opening facing down and do not get the rim onto a spinning buff, disaster waiting to happen. When applying object to wheel have the wheel turning toward you just ling on a lathe and apply the turning at about the 7:00 to 7:30 position. Be sure you have a firm grip on the turning. DO NOT even try to buff inside a 5 inch bowl except with the ball buffs.YOU will have the buff catch a object and throw it, just a matter of time. For this eventuality I have rubber mats on the floor to help some. NOTE Buffs do not give a HIGH gloss shine by them selves, you need a good gloss finish as a base.

 

     Like sanding go thru the grits Tripoli and White Diamond. Note on porous woods (Walnut, some Oaks ) using The white diamond may (if you overload the buff) deposit the compound into the pours and it is a problem (being nice here) to get it out. There fore I usually do not use it on those woods. There is a MT to put your buff on the lathe if you desire but you will need to use a draw bar if you do that. As a benefit buffing usually makes up for some bad finishing by removing most of those nasty nibs and as a result gives the finish a silky smooth feel.

 

Here is your handbook: Caswell- How to buff and polish

[John Morris]

Thank you gents, for the wonderful feedback, I appreciate it greatly!

[DuckSoup]

 I have the Beall system. It comes with an adapter that bolts onto the shaft of a motor. Takes a little time to change from one wheel to the next but I was happy with the results.

     

[Michael Thuman]

On 9/11/2023 at 1:45 PM, DuckSoup said:

 I have the Beall system. It comes with an adapter that bolts onto the shaft of a motor. Takes a little time to change from one wheel to the next but I was happy with the results.

     

Awesome pictures thanks for sharing