Seems I was a bit too confidant in using the above jig that I got for 2 reasons: 1) I really wanted a wide capacity dovetail jig and Leigh had this 24" one with great reviews 2) I had promised to make my oldest granddaughter this cherry blanket chest I had plans for that i really like.

 

Well I have the jig and the wood is all milled up but my test dovetails on the same thickness boards aren't quite there yet. Due to a number of circumstances I shelved this project till I had more time to practice and get the joints right but that hasn't happened in the past year. I've watched the videos and re-read the manual but the results aren't getting that much better. I'm more than sure this jig is capable of repeatable well fitting dovetails but I haven't discovered the touch yet. Any suggestions and/or videos that aren't Leigh's (I've watched all of those several times) that might give me the ah-ha moment or suggested tips? I really need to get this on track again.....

 

I can't help with the tips, but I think someone here uses that jig and will be able to offer some insights 

I'm sure it's something simple that I'm simply overlooking but.....the issue with some of these jigs is if you don't use them often the next time is almost like the 1st, especially when you get on in years.....

 

As for the spacing I can make that what I want as long as both sides are identical which they would be as you cut one (pins/tales) 1st then flip the finger assembly and do the other. Or I could get more fingers and use a tighter arrangement but that changes nothing as you still cut the one and flip for the other. Most critical seems to be the depth of the bit.

Those jigs are marvelous, but they are about as difficult to use as anything can be. Here's the steps I took that may help without knowing exactly what problem you're having. I went through the jig and set it up a second time. This was making all the adjustments called for in the manual (which is one of the best published, IMHO) as you would for the first time. Pay careful attention to the setting of the side stops since any miss there is not good. The second thing (which is just as important) is to make sure your bushing is perfectly centered around the router bit. Now, I've seen guys say that isn't important if you make sure to hold your router in the same orientation for each cut you make. I disagree, having it properly centered eliminates one more potential source of grief. I started with an older PC 690, and could not get the bushing centered. I changed to a Milwaukee (has a little play in the base just for centering) and solved most of my problems. Then  of course cokes the practice part which you're already working on. Lastly, if all else fails, call Leigh. They will need a description of the exact problem but they are 1) super nice, and 2) helpful. They've already answered a question like yours a hundred times so they probably have an answer right off the bat.

Thanks Fred. I'll go through the setup again and have done that several times but another doesn't hurt or take long. It's mounted on a board as they suggest. I'm using one of my Bosch 1617EVS which I got a centering pin for and works well. I'll triple check that as well. I need to mill some pine or poplar to exact thickness for more trail material.

 

My 1st thoughts have been and are still in the back of my mind the depth of cut after changing bits is causing me issues. I think making some edge that can be temporarily attached so you can lower the bit and not be bent over while lowering the bit in a position that doesn't have the best lighting may also be playing a role. I also had seen a tip where marking the board on the outfacing side to make sure the boards are orientated properly would help and will do as well.

 

You are right on as to their manual and expertise over the phone. Friendliest bunch I've dealt with as dealers go. Maybe I've not given it enough time to get use to its use yet. I have many irons in the fire so to say.........

 

Thanks Again,

 

Steve