Got some steps to put finish on next week and looking at poly. Minwax used to be what I used but I notice the can is now gray. Anyone know what the difference is?

 

That said what brand does everyone use and is there a reason or like me just always used it?

I use Minwax wipe on poly.  Gold can is satin and gray can is gloss.

Went to General Finishes few years back. Had good success with them.  For shop stuff I use Minwax semi gloss.   

Minwax here. Easily available. seems to work OK.

I continue to use Minwax poly oil based and wipe and water based. The only reason that I use Minwax is it is the only brand name available locally. If I should see Deft I may change. Also I use only high gloss as that is the finish that I prefer. When I served in my apprentice program my instuctor and out text book taught that anything less than high gloss would wear off or down from use or cleaning. The granular texture was like stacking BB's to reflect the light in various directions to diffuse the gloss. You have to ensure that the surface is well sanded with high gloss.

If I need a quick finish I’ll use Deft rattle can lacquer.  Most of the time I use General Finishes Arm R Seal.   It’s a great product.

I might be different but I don't use Poly and don't use Minwax. I don' even know what you mean when you say Poly. 

 I also find gloss will show improper preparations and flaws big time. Also if you stick with a good hardwood with a closed grain you have much less work to make something look good. 

 

This piece has three of four coats of semi-gloss lacquer with the stain being all Lenmar dye stain. The was applied with an air brush with about six or 7 drops of stain and the rest of the little 1 oz jar was lacquer thinner. This is my go to stain and probably they are not in business anymore for these bottles are at least 20 years old. If used in spraying applications a bottle will last forever, almost.  In my opinion min wax or anything else should never be rubbed on with a rag being saturated with straight stuff. Thats what makes blotches and every one should know this already.

 

These five colors are what is on the clock body. 

It's still laying in the bathroom with the exhaust fan running to oust the lacquer fumes before I stick the movements in and hang it up somewhere. I put the last coat on wednesday afternoon.  It needs no rubbing after the last coat for I used 4 0000 steel wool between each coat to remove fuzzies.

I don't use poly as much as other stuff, but I've used Minwax, Arm-r-seal, and currently working on a can of Varathane.  The Varathane seems to have a browner tone than the Minwax but it seems go on pretty clear.  Don't know how it ambers over time.

The only "poly" I've used recently is the Arm-R-Seal product, and I found it to be a nice finish, although it's really thin.

Varathane works for me for a rattle can finish. For a brush or wipe on, I like Helmsmans Spar Urethane. Both yellow with age. Not a biggie cuz most of my stuff is either walnut or mesquite and, usually coated first with dark or medium Watco. There's some curly maple I've been itching to use but, I'm not sure what finish to use.

16 hours ago, Gerald said:

Got some steps to put finish on next week and looking at poly. Minwax used to be what I used but I notice the can is now gray. Anyone know what the difference is?

 

I thought the difference was about $2/can...

Are these inside or outside steps?

I believe I would trust Sherwin Williams and let them tell you which will stay on better and longer. I think our store still sells oil base for out side apps. You have to be a contractor though. In my earlier reply I took the word STEPS as in all the ways to do certain things so forget I ever existed with that long reply. 

 

 

4 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

The only "poly" I've used recently is the Arm-R-Seal product, and I found it to be a nice finish, although it's really thin.

I think that technically Arm-r-Seal is a "wiping varnish", i.e., a very thinned down version.

 

3 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

 

 I like Helmsmans Spar Urethane.

I have seen some jobs where the contractor used this on horizontal surfaces like desks or tables.  Being a "spar" (long oil) varnish, it's a little softer than regular varnish and in those instances, there were a lot of impressions from writing with a pen that transferred thru the paper.

 

Also, per Steve Mickley's article on exterior finishes, despite the name, it does not do well outside.

5 hours ago, Cal said:

 

I thought the difference was about $2/can...

Are these inside or outside steps?

Inside , to church stage.

19 hours ago, kmealy said:

I have seen some jobs where the contractor used this on horizontal surfaces like desks or tables.  Being a "spar" (long oil) varnish, it's a little softer than regular varnish and in those instances, there were a lot of impressions from writing with a pen that transferred thru the paper.

 

Also, per Steve Mickley's article on exterior finishes, despite the name, it does not do well outside.

Yes, there are much better exterior finishes. But, it holds up well on the interior pieces. It's been used on two of our dining tables and chairs, a Hoosier cabinet and numerous sets of kitchen cabinets. All have held up well. As to it's softness, it seems to resist denting under the crayons I use.

When I redone our stairway a few years back (2018) I used Varathane floor poly from BORG.

Looking over my finishing schedule I applied an oil based stain, a coat of this poly thinned 10% and then three coats at full strength.

The stairs still look as good as they did in 2018.

YMMV

 

41 minutes ago, Cal said:

When I redone our stairway a few years back (2018) I used Varathane floor poly from BORG.

Looking over my finishing schedule I applied an oil based stain, a coat of this poly thinned 10% and then three coats at full strength.

The stairs still look as good as they did in 2018.

YMMV

 

Over the years, I've used a good bit of rattle can Varathane on my boxes and other small items and, have been quite happy with it. However, that floor finish is new to me. Thanks for the post, Cal. And, thanks for the application tips, too. If it's good for floors, it should be great for the tables I'm building for two college bound grandkids. It should hold up for their future needs.