So if I have placed this in the wrong spot, I’m sure John will rescue me and put it where it belongs . So I originally set up the SS for 220 volts, I got some low voltage warnings, which also stops the SS from running. I checked all connections, metered the voltage at different times and locations, all results were acceptable. I then set the SS up for 125 volts to see if it would make a difference. It still kept happening, but seemed less often. At the end of making the last run of Kissmass Trees, I got a System Error RPS State Error0, and the machine stopped running. So with Christmas happening, and having to move everything in the basement to get the Christmas stuff out, and up, I decided to wait until everything was put back and the basement was mine again to deal with this. While waiting I researched the issue as well as I could. There were several threads about it on the SS Forums. Basically there is a 3 sensor, speed sensor next to the motor, and if sawdust gets in there and covers any one, or more, of the sensors, the SS stops, and the Error code appears. So today (Cause yesterday we got all the Christmas stuff put away  ), I partially disassembled the PowerPro, (Had a stripped screw on the shaft guard, had to cut it to get the guard off. $4.95 for a new one, it’s been ordered. Also had to go to HD for some T-handled Allen wrenches, and  split ring pliers.) got to the sensor and vacuumed, gently wiped, and using canned air, cleaned the sensors. I reassembled the SS, put it back in 220 volt mode, and started it up in tablesaw mode, 4300 RPM. The SS Ran for a couple of minutes, and then I turned it off. I’m hoping this works because the sensor cost one of the guys on their forum $700/something for a replacement (he did the replacing), otherwise I have to take the PowerPro off the SS, crate it up and send it back to SS. I’m starting to think the old school motor with the pulley speed system may have been the better choice.

                                                    Second issue, every time I rip I seem to burn the wood. When I bought the SS I bought the alignment meter. I was going to check the blade/fence/miter slot alignment, but when I bought the Jessem Clear Cut Table Saw Guide I found out it only works on the left side of the fence. I do not know why, but I have always cut on the right side of the fence. Maybe the left side is the one you’re supposed to use in WW’ing? Anyways tomorrow’s project is to check the alignment, and try to set it, if it’s off. I’d like to be able to rip without burning. If I can resolve these 2 issues, I will be able to get more therapeutic value from my shop time.   

1 hour ago, Artie said:

I’m starting to think the old school motor with the pulley speed system may have been the better choice.

You may be able to pick up a 10ER model for a reasonable price!

Edited January 2, 20224 yr by HARO50

Artie,

 

I've gotten the RPS State 0 error code a couple of times. It seems that the small allen screw holding the cooling fan/sensor onto the shaft likes to back out and let the disc slip just enough to mess up the sensor readings. A bit of locktite before torquing it down should do wonders.

 

Just wish I'd been smart enough to do what you did to access the motor. I have been crawling on the floor on my back to get at it. Well, at least til now. 

I have looked at the powerpro headstock since it first came out and all the problems it has encountered. I am more mechanical minded than electrical minded I have chosen to stay with the belts and sheaves as they have proven themselves in service for almost 70 years. If it ain't broke don't fix it applies to me. And others like you can make corrections to the the new system and it all works for them. Good on them. But I will stay with the old system as we understand each other. 😉

 

You have the right about your wood burning. 1. Dirty or dull sawblade. 2. Slightly out of alignment. Caution: double check that the blade teeth are pointed toward you. I am assuming that you have that correct as you didn't mention that you have had wood grabbed from you and slammed. If saw blade is a bit gummy you can clean in some ammonia. Allow it to soak for an hour or 2 and use an old toothbrush or other similar stiff brush and give it some scrub. It will be amazing how different the cut will be. I wax mine on both sides just not the blades.

Artie, I'm not sure it makes any difference but, my fence is always on the right side of the blade. Edit: Just checked the bible (Shopsmith's Power Tool Woodworking System) the first illustration shows the fence on the right. 

I used the indicator tool set up for the first time today. If the fence is on the right side of the blade the gap opens about 17/1000’s to the back of the blade, and the reverse is true if the fence is on the left side of the blade. I have always used the fence on the left side of the blade………so now I know  . With the Jessem Clear Cut Guide system it only works on the left side of the fence. Hopefully the error code issue is resolved and I am excited to get back in the shop and start cranking on the list of projects I have in front of me. Of course I found out last week I have to start working weekends for the next couple of months. Less shop time , easier bill paying time .  

Artie my son and I both have SS’s with the PP headstock and we both have had that problem. Mine occurs about once a year and my son has had it happen once. What we do is just remove the rear cover and use a long air nozzle ( from HF), blow it out real good and put the cover back on. So far that has cured the problem every time and takes about 5 min. 
Paul

Thank you Paul, I’m hoping that cleaning off the sensors is all that’s needed. After doing this once, the process of getting to the sensors is actually fairly easy (other than the stripped threads on the shaft guard mounting ). For all the capabilities the Pro offers, if I have to do this cleaning once or twice a year, no problems. I hope to start a project next week, interested in seeing how the fixes/additions work.

Now that you have the headstock working again I wish to turn tge focus toward the wood burning while cutting. Is the fence adjustable? Or do you have to adjust the table?

Steve I have been ripping on the left side of the blade, and the right side of the fence. Today using the alignment tool I got from SS, it showed that gap decreasing by about 17/1000’ths towards the back of the blade. With the just added Jessem Table Saw Guides I will be now ripping on the right side of the blade, left side of the fence. This will give me a 17/1000th’s INCREASE at the back of the blade. I’m thinking this will make a/some difference.

17/100 toe in might just be enough to cause some burning. I've never measured it on my MK V but the fence setting is a tad wider at the outfeed end. 

@Artie  are you left handed?  My Dad always cut from right side of fence with fence to left of blade.  He was pure lefty, trying to do the other way was a disaster for him.  Most days my right arm is in good enough shape to cut as everyone else does, left of fence with fence right of blade.  BUT, on those days when it is not happy, then I cut the other way.  Still square, no issues.  Units being used are 1985, and 1994 Delta Contractor saws with a delta T2 fence.  

Gunny, I’m a righty, got no explanation for it other than where it sits in the basement, and how I approach it, I just always used the fence on the left side of the blade. It’s not easy being me  .

Artie here is how I align the SS for alignment to the blade. First off I use a combo square for the feeler gauge. First align the table to the blade. Do not start by trying to align the fence to the blade. Loosen the four bolts that attach the table to the trunion. Two finger tighten all four bolts. Now with the blade mounted pick a tooth on the blade and mark it. Start with that tooth at forward edge of the blade slot. Set the combo square with the “handle” of the square in the miter slot and adjust the blade so it just barely touches the the marked tooth. Now rotate that tooth on the blade to the other end of the blade slot. Adjust the table by tapping on it with a mallet until that tooth just barely touches the marked tooth. You will have to go back and forth a couple of times to get it perfect, adjusting the combo square each time. Now tighten all four trunion bolts in a diagonal pattern. Now you have the miter slot perfectly tuned to the blade. Now you can loosen the bolts on the fence that attach it to the tee part of the fence and again just barely snug them. Now using the combo square use the same technique to align the fence to the miter slot, tighten the bolts and now it will be perfectly aligned. An alternative method for the fence is to mill a piece of hardwood that fits the miter slot snugly that is about as high as the top of the fence. Tap the piece of wood into the miter slot, loosen the bolts on the fence, clamp the loosened fence to the piece of wood with the tee loose on the rails. Now tighten the tee to the rails, tighten the fence bolts an it will be perfectly aligned. 
Paul

1 hour ago, Gunny said:

My Dad always cut from right side of fence with fence to left of blade.

My Dad doesn't even use a fence when ripping, drives me crazy! He marks a line the length of the board and feeds it in. He's got an old Delta 1950's table saw.

1 hour ago, Artie said:

It’s not easy being me

At least you're not GREEN! Are you?

1 minute ago, HARO50 said:

At least you're not GREEN! Are you?

Green to woodworking, apparently  

My fence is always to the right if the blade. It's just my approach. I always stand to the right of the fence. No reason and I am right handed. Maybe I need some squaring up. 

1 hour ago, Masonsailor said:

Artie here is how I align the SS for alignment to the blade. First off I use a combo square for the feeler gauge. First align the table to the blade. Do not start by trying to align the fence to the blade. Loosen the four bolts that attach the table to the trunion. Two finger tighten all four bolts. Now with the blade mounted pick a tooth on the blade and mark it. Start with that tooth at forward edge of the blade slot. Set the combo square with the “handle” of the square in the miter slot and adjust the blade so it just barely touches the the marked tooth. Now rotate that tooth on the blade to the other end of the blade slot. Adjust the table by tapping on it with a mallet until that tooth just barely touches the marked tooth. You will have to go back and forth a couple of times to get it perfect, adjusting the combo square each time. Now tighten all four trunion bolts in a diagonal pattern. Now you have the miter slot perfectly tuned to the blade. Now you can loosen the bolts on the fence that attach it to the tee part of the fence and again just barely snug them. Now using the combo square use the same technique to align the fence to the miter slot, tighten the bolts and now it will be perfectly aligned. An alternative method for the fence is to mill a piece of hardwood that fits the miter slot snugly that is about as high as the top of the fence. Tap the piece of wood into the miter slot, loosen the bolts on the fence, clamp the loosened fence to the piece of wood with the tee loose on the rails. Now tighten the tee to the rails, tighten the fence bolts an it will be perfectly aligned. 
Paul

I have taken a screenshot of this, and will bring it down to the shop and place with the rest of my manuals/directions. THANK YOU!