I wanted to make an articulating toy for the US Marines annual Toys-for-tots Christmas program this year.  The plan was to design a toy and make ten of them.  Well, I am not making a design, but I did purchase a plan to make a walking rabbit.

 

I started work on the pull-toy rabbit.  Originally, I thought I would use a scroll saw, but quickly aborted that idea and ordered a 1/8” blade for my bandsaw.  The bandsaw left a nice surface finish but not nice enough, so I had to order a variable speed sander.  I’m making do with my drill press drum sanding system instead of purchasing a spindle sander.  Another project will have to justify that tool.  Learning to use the scroll saw effectively, would have taken more time than what I wanted to expend.  I sent an email to a Smallpatch asking for tips on the use of a scroll saw.  He replied with a lot of good information; more effort than with I wanted to take on.   Thank you Jesse, I did appreciate it.    Perhaps when Covid is over I will visit, and you can give me lessons. The prototype rabbit can be seen here.  Pulling the toy moves four wheels which moves the leg bones which make the ears flop.

 

 

I decided to make eleven Rabbits and give the extra one to my granddaughter.  For eleven rabbits I had to make 396 pieces.   Someone in my area was giving away some walnut, oak, and cherry cut-offs.  He had numerous small pieces 10" to 16" long.   Win, Win, Win.  He got his basement cleaned-up, I got free lumber, and some kids will get hand crafted pull toys. 

 

The plans used metric dimensioning so I had to do some figuring.  I used seven different drill sizes. to keep each hole as small as possible, but I may have to open a few when it comes assembly time to allow everything to articulate correctly.  I hope to have this project completed soon.  I need to get it done before the new interior doors arrive.  Thanks for looking.  Danl

There are going to be some kids!

 

excellent project!!

Wonderful project!  I nominate it for the best project of the year award.  Love it!

Very nice project for a great cause !

Paul

Wow! What an undertaking. Great job for a great cause. Please tell us more about your process. Did you use router templates? 

Great project for a great cause Danl.  Some happy kids in the near future.

Will you apply any type of finish to them?

That is so cool! Both the rabbit and the thought behind them.

Edited August 29, 20214 yr by Fred W. Hargis Jr

Very nice Danl. Those should brighten the Christmas for many

8 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

Wow! What an undertaking. Great job for a great cause. Please tell us more about your process. Did you use router templates? 

 

I originally started to use a router template for the main body, and it was a disaster.  I broke off the legs on the 1st rabbit  due to routing cross grain.  I had to change my approach.

My go-to method is to use ¼” MDF.  I put self-adhesive shelving paper on the MDF and spray 3M adhesive to the paper pattern.  Then press the pattern to the shelving paper.

 

 

 

 

I knew holding the distance between pivot points was critical, so I used small finish nails to help transfer the pattern center-line distances to the wood pieces.  I used this same method for the leg pieces and ears also.  I did not use the hole diameters printed on the pattern. 

 

 

I transfer the pattern to the wood by using the templates and a pencil.

 

 

 

Because my bandsaw insert plate is not flat with the saw’s cast iron surface, I added a board to the top.  It is an old cabinet door.  I like that fact that the door’s surface is not smooth.  It gives me better control when sawing small pieces.

 

 

Using a 1/8” round over bit, I put a profile on the leg pieces.  When I used the router mounted on my router table, I figured out that the best method for me was to 1st add the holes to the leg pieces.  I used these holes as pivot points for my fingertip pads which allowed me to rotate the piece between the router bit roller and the router table fence.  I found it to be the safest if I raised the router to 1/16” high on the 1st pass then raise it in 1/64” increments.  With these set-ups there was no kick-back when routing cross-grain.  Ten passes for each piece.

(no picture)

 

 

To make the eyes I made a simple jig with a 3/4” hole and 3/8 “ hole.  The 3/4" hole centered the dowel for the 3/8" hole.  I used 3/8" cherry dowels for the eye pupils.

 

 

 

I used a 2-1/4” hole saw for the wheels.  I sawed the best when I allowed the saw cutters to be slightly exposed to no-material (I hope that made since).  This method gave a path for the sawdust to be cleared while sawing.  It also reduced the wood waste.  

 

The hole saw has a 1/4" dia. centering bit.  I will use the 1/4" hole to help mount the wheels to the axles.  It will be a tight friction fit.  Thanks.   Danl

you might want to have a plan B in mind.  from what I recall reading, the Toys for Tots only takes commercial, unwrapped presents.  no hand made stuff.  and watch your finish choice, needs to be kid safe (food safe), so no polyurethane.  kids put everything into their mouths.

 I found this on the Toys for Tots "Standard Operating Procedures" document dated 2015 (so it may have been superseded).  Anyway, it appears that homemade toy are acceptable, though it spells out a few conditions that must be met. Notice it only specs the finish =es be lead free. Makes sense since all finishes are considered safe once fully cured. It might make sense to double chek this stuff, but here's what I found:

 

6.9 Homemade Toys. Of growing concern, is the donation of homemade toys, and
whether or not Toys for Tots will continue to accept such toys, even though they may not
have undergone the new testing process required for toys. The Foundation is taking the - 18 -
position that since homemade toymakers are not producing toys for the purposes of making
a profit and have no reason to cut corners to increase profit margins or reduce their
inventory, and that the toys are generally safe with minimal moving parts that could cause
injury, that we will continue to accept homemade toys. In doing so, there are three layers of
safety that must be in place to ensure this policy can continue. Layer One: Toy makers
must understand the requirement that homemade toys be safe (no small parts; rounded
edges; lead-free paint; etc.); Layer Two: Toys for Tots coordinators (and their volunteer
assistants) must take steps to ensure the makers are informed of the Layer One
requirement, carefully inspect homemade toys when they are donated, AND make every
effort to distribute such toys appropriately; and Layer Three: Parents must ensure that
any toy given to them to, in turn, present to their child, must be age appropriate.

 

 

Here's the url for the pdf file:

https://www.toysfortots.org/about_toys_for_tots/coordinators_corner/2015 TFT SOP.pdf

 

Edited August 29, 20214 yr by Fred W. Hargis Jr

3 hours ago, DAB said:

you might want to have a plan B in mind.  from what I recall reading, the Toys for Tots only takes commercial, unwrapped presents.  no hand made stuff.  and watch your finish choice, needs to be kid safe (food safe), so no polyurethane.  kids put everything into their mouths.

 

Thank you Dab for your reply and concern.  I was active in collecting and distributing toys for the TOT program last year and knew that they received hand crafted toys then.  Safety is the upmost for anything for children and is a part of my thought and design process.  Thanks again Danl

2 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

 I found this on the Toys for Tots "Standard Operating Procedures" document dated 2015 (so it may have been superseded).  Anyway, it appears that homemade toy are acceptable, though it spells out a few conditions that must be met. Notice it only specs the finish =es be lead free. Makes sense since all finishes are considered safe once fully cured. It might make sense to double chek this stuff, but here's what I found:

 

6.9 Homemade Toys. Of growing concern, is the donation of homemade toys, and
whether or not Toys for Tots will continue to accept such toys, even though they may not
have undergone the new testing process required for toys. The Foundation is taking the - 18 -
position that since homemade toymakers are not producing toys for the purposes of making
a profit and have no reason to cut corners to increase profit margins or reduce their
inventory, and that the toys are generally safe with minimal moving parts that could cause
injury, that we will continue to accept homemade toys. In doing so, there are three layers of
safety that must be in place to ensure this policy can continue. Layer One: Toy makers
must understand the requirement that homemade toys be safe (no small parts; rounded
edges; lead-free paint; etc.); Layer Two: Toys for Tots coordinators (and their volunteer
assistants) must take steps to ensure the makers are informed of the Layer One
requirement, carefully inspect homemade toys when they are donated, AND make every
effort to distribute such toys appropriately; and Layer Three: Parents must ensure that
any toy given to them to, in turn, present to their child, must be age appropriate.

 

 

Here's the url for the pdf file:

https://www.toysfortots.org/about_toys_for_tots/coordinators_corner/2015 TFT SOP.pdf

 

 

Fred

Thanks for the URL reference.  I was not aware of this document.  Danl

The Rabbits are complete.  Eleven rabbits, 39 x 11 = 429 pcs.

One rabbit for my granddaughter for Christmas and ten for the USMC Toys-for-tots.

Thanks for looking.   Danl

 

 

Those are so cute! Big hit this Christmas!!

Those look great and should get plenty of play time!

A great looking colony of rabbits there Danl!

I am curious to the source of the pattern and rubber for the wheels.  Thank you in advance. I want to make some for a couple of grandchildren.

 

You may want to do a census on those things as they have a strong tendency to multiply.  

2 hours ago, FlGatorwood said:

I am curious to the source of the pattern and rubber for the wheels.    

15 yr old Schwinn 27" x 1-1/4" bicycle tire.

Approx. 7/8" dia. uninflated stretched over a ~2-1/16" wheel

cut to 1/2" wide, wheel is 3/4" wide

 

I made a jig to help.  It had a 1/4" dia. dowel in a scrap board.  Position the wheel center hole over the dowel and pull the rubber over the wheel.

Danl

2 hours ago, FlGatorwood said:

I want to make some for a couple of grandchildren.

 

 

 

I few helpful tips:

1) When making the (4) bottom legs (2 each side), make the O.D. smaller than the pattern to assure the leg does not rub the floor when installed.

2) Suggest making wheels slightly larger in dia, than pattern for same reason stated in #1 tip.

3) Pattern for wheel shows 16 mm dimn.  This dimn is not important.  The distance between wheel center and center of off set whole is the important dimn.  See pic to help locate off-set hole.  Notice drill bit against fence.  It is being used as a locating gauge.

4) Bevel the front upper leg pieces at the area that contact the ears so that the ears have less rotation.   If the leg pieces are not beveled, when the rabbit moves at at good clip, the ears can move past center and then act as a break. 

5) After fully assembled, verify that all 4 wheels have clearance between the body.  If not, pull wheels outward for positive clearance.  I used a shim through out the assembly to help assure clearance between moving parts.  

If have any questions, just ask.   

Danl