I seem to have the same problem when sanding it doesn’t matter if it is wood or resin. I will sand to a point where everything looks great. Then when I go to the next grit I get lines in the bowl and have to go back to a more coarse grit to get rid of them. Sometimes it happens after 240 and sometimes higher. Is it because there is a build up of dust in the paper making the marks? Could it be I am pushing too hard? Could it be I am leaving the sandpaper in one place too long? I would appreciate any help.

I forgot to add that I sand with the lathe at a high rpm. Could that be the problem.

I think so Rusty. The high speed creates heat and that makes every thing stick together especially the resin more so than regular wood. Just don't get in a hurry. Slow down and smell the roses and I think it will give the particles a chance to fly away from the sand paper... 

You should not sand at high speeds.  If the paper clogs the clog will transfer to the wood especially if you are pressing too hard.  It is also good practice to remove the dust between grits.  Once you get to the higher grits light pressure is all that should be required.  Hand sanding in the direction of the grain is preferred if possible.

I blow the dust off between grits with my air compressor. I also sand a little and blow the dust off the paper and sand some more. It sounds like I have a speed problem and need to slow the lathe down. Thanks.

47 minutes ago, RustyFN said:

I blow the dust off between grits with my air compressor. I also sand a little and blow the dust off the paper and sand some more. It sounds like I have a speed problem and need to slow the lathe down. Thanks.

 

 

I just wipe with my bare hand, forget the blowing air.  Or use a tack cloth, probably better.  Definitely slow the speed down.  

Rusty look up W-1307 and W 1309 in the Grizzly catalog. They are for clearing saw dust off sanding belts. The local stores might have them but I doubt it....They are rubber compounds and will grab the saw dust and will help remove it off the paper. Use it often and don't let the sand paper get burned which is very hard to remove. They are the same thing , one just bigger and last longer.

  Most pine and any wood that has lots of sap are the big reason I don't ever use pine that has to be belt sanded..

Edited January 6, 20215 yr by Smallpatch

Rusty not to repeat but look at my post pinned at the top of this forum on how do you sand. There were several responses just follow them thru and try the methods there , then problems should be at least partly solved. Slow down is the best two word advise. The paper skips over the surface when turned to high speed. Friend in our club told me when you have a bad spot work on it and not sand the whole bowl and most people will never know the difference, but you do have to feather the edges.

Thank you everybody for the help. I turned the lathe down to the slowest speed and sanded it over starting from 60 grit. That should be around 250 rpm. I went through every grit to 600. Wow what a difference. I actually don’t hate sanding any more. The lathe speed was definitely the problem. I cut the emblem out and it is glued in the mortise. Waiting for the glue to dry. I will put a finish on it and then take some pictures to post.

I use one of these on sanding disks and papers that I use for hand sanding.  It really does extend the life of the sandpaper.  

 

https://www.amazon.com/Cleaning-Eraser-Stick-Abrasive-Sanding/dp/B000H69U7G/ref=sr_1_3?crid=URMQCNSD4C6C&dchild=1&keywords=sanding+eraser&qid=1610164368&sprefix=sanding+e%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-3

 

And, it will last for a few years.  Worth the investment.  

At the point I hit 320 I usually start hand sanding and occasionally revert back to 220. At the 320 point I am sanding in a swirl pattern to remove any hint of the radial sanding grooves. I only do this on turnings that I want that glossy look with absolutely no sanding marks. After the hand sanding I will polish back on the lathe with steel wool and then finish up using wood shavings. 
Paul