For years I've read that a crosscut sled is a necessity in the shop, yet I never felt inclined to make one. (let me mention I have a panel sled to square up panels.)But while putzing with tissue box covers I wasn't happy handling such small pieces on the saw. Then I came across a smaller sled in a magazine (Woodcraft, maybe) that I though would be useful for smaller pieces. This is my version. Let me mention again, I'm very much function over form, so I don't dress such things up to look nice. I just want them to perform as they should. Anyway, what's different about this sled from others I've seen is that it's a single runner sled. That allows you to move from one miter slot to the other. The idea is that (on my saw) when it's in the left slot, you cut 90º more or less in the middle of the sled. When it's in the right slot, you can tilt the blade to 45º and cut miters for mitered corner boxes. Because you only have one runner I bought a metal one that adjusts for tightness and not worry about wear on it. Anyway, here's what I came up with: The pics show it in the left slot and the right slot. So far this looks handy for smaller pieces, it's only 14" between the fences and I kinda wished I had made it a little smaller. But it's 25" wide and that seems to be about right.

6 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

I bought a metal one that adjusts for tightness and not worry about wear on it.

Thank you, Fred.  I'm inspired.  Where did you get the metal runner?

 

 

That's nice! I like the design of the single runner allowing ti to be used in two positions. 

2 hours ago, JimM said:

Thank you, Fred.  I'm inspired.  Where did you get the metal runner?

 

 

The runner is an Incra Miter Slider, and I got it from Peachtree.

Like you I went a long time without one.  Just didn't know what I was missing!  So much easier and very accurate.  May do a set up with one runner like your to see how that works for me.  Having two saws side by side this could be a game changer.  Plus I need one for box joints anyway.  

You will never regret it.  The only time I don't use a crosscut (or miter) sled is when I'm ripping something.  Had it for 30+ years.

Aren't they wonderful?  I have a suggestion.  On the 2 X where you place your hands to push and pull, I would put a big block of wood for the sawblade to bury in.  I would rather it cut the block of wood than one of my thumbs.  I found it to be beneficial one day after using it.  I had not realized that I would have my thumb right where the saw blade comes whirring through.  So thankful for that block.  Does this make sense to anyone?  

55 minutes ago, FlGatorwood said:

Aren't they wonderful?  I have a suggestion.  On the 2 X where you place your hands to push and pull, I would put a big block of wood for the sawblade to bury in.  I would rather it cut the block of wood than one of my thumbs.  I found it to be beneficial one day after using it.  I had not realized that I would have my thumb right where the saw blade comes whirring through.  So thankful for that block.  Does this make sense to anyone?  

 

 

Yes, I took that and went a bit farther but keep in mind I am crippled with right hand so just pushing the jig as you guys do is difficult.  Thus a handle that can be used both sides to aid in cutting.

 

I built one long ago but I thought it was heavy so when I changed saws it was dissembled. I have not had a end for it since  But I do have a large and small panel sled for most of those needs.

1 hour ago, FlGatorwood said:

Aren't they wonderful?  I have a suggestion.  On the 2 X where you place your hands to push and pull, I would put a big block of wood for the sawblade to bury in.  I would rather it cut the block of wood than one of my thumbs.  I found it to be beneficial one day after using it.  I had not realized that I would have my thumb right where the saw blade comes whirring through.  So thankful for that block.  Does this make sense to anyone?  

I have two 1x4s serving this purpose.   I'd recommend it.

I have a few different sized sleds but use my Kreg miter gauge most of the time.  It is very accurate.

Some good innovative ideas here.  Thanks Fred for starting this thread.

8 hours ago, HandyDan said:

I have a few different sized sleds but use my Kreg miter gauge most of the time.  It is very accurate.

That's me as well, Dan. My miter gauge is Incra, but I've always been able to get by with it. The only reason (for me) of the sled is for small pieces which have always been a little uncomfortable with the miter gauge. I do a lot of those cuts on the RAS, but with small pieces that feels even less safe.

6 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

That's me as well, Dan. My miter gauge is Incra, but I've always been able to get by with it. The only reason (for me) of the sled is for small pieces which have always been a little uncomfortable with the miter gauge. I do a lot of those cuts on the RAS, but with small pieces that feels even less safe.

 

You're right about the small parts.  That's when I use mine.

8 hours ago, HandyDan said:

I have a few different sized sleds but use my Kreg miter gauge most of the time.  It is very accurate.

I was and, still am, amazed at that Kreg's accuracy. Like Fred said, the sled really comes in handy for small pieces. 

A little aside here, has anyone else tried FastCap's "Ten Million Dollar Stick https://www.fastcap.com/product/10-million-dollar-stick ? Makes using the CMS a bit safer.

I use the miter sled several times a day so years ago I scrounged an old delta table saw someone was throwing away, rehabbed it and made it a permanent fixture. When we left on our sailing trip I sold it along with everything else. This time around I am using a dedicated Shopsmith for the sled very happy with it. I put an Incra fence on it with their flip stop. The only issue with the SS is that it is not a tilting arbor so when I need to cut miters I use the big saw a and one of the miter bars. 
Paul

2 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

, has anyone else tried FastCap's "Ten Million Dollar Stick https://www.fastcap.com/product/10-million-dollar-stick ? Makes using the CMS a bit safer.

 

I bought one to use with my RAS, and then sent it back. The "finger pads" that grip the board to hold it were very hard and if I put some force into it the wood would be dented. I wasn't impressed personally, though I do like many of the Fastcap products.

Well, back in the shop I went ahead and added a cover around the blade exit spot on the back as Steve suggested. Rather than screw some pieces of solid wood, I just used a few scrap pieces and built a box that sticks back another 2" or so.

33 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

Well, back in the shop I went ahead and added a cover around the blade exit spot on the back as Steve suggested. Rather than screw some pieces of solid wood, I just used a few scrap pieces and built a box that sticks back another 2" or so.

I have seen that done on others builds as well. With my method of holding to one side it is less of issue. Others may have various issues.  My son finds the angle of my push sticks uncomfortable.

16 hours ago, FlGatorwood said:

I would put a big block of wood for the sawblade to bury in.

I did that on mine, too. Also added a sled stop so that I couldn't accidently push the sled too far a cut thru the wood block.