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A good article on when and how to use biscuit joints.  Glad to see someone else who does not believe the myth, "They are for alignment only and don't add any strength."

https://www.wwgoa.com/article/using-a-biscuit-joiner/?utm_source=newsletter&utm_campaign=A6134

A_Biscuit_Joiner_Can_Be_Used_For_Almost_Anything.pdf

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4 hours ago, kmealy said:

Glad to see someone else who does not believe the myth, "They are for alignment only and don't add any strength."

 

Interesting you mention this tonight.  :TwoThumbsUp:My son came to visit and helped as I did some edge banding on some drawer fronts.  He asked why biscuits.  And my reply was that for this APPLICATION (edge banding) it was for alignment.  But for other things it does provide some strength but not for heavy duty stress joints and such.  

 

A small exert from the article:

 

 

 

The question that I ask myself when I consider biscuits relative to other types of joints, is whether or not glue and biscuits are strong enough for the particular application at hand. If I know that a particular joint will undergo a lot of torture, such as the leg/stretcher joint on a large table or chair, I will use heavier duty joinery for that application.

I've used them a few times. Not any more. I don't think I'm mything anything.;)

1 minute ago, Gene Howe said:

I've used them a few times. Not any more. I don't think I'm mything anything.;)

For doning edge banding like I do. These work good. My crippled hand appreciates them.:D

It's still a usable tool, yet there are better options available today...I still use one but I'm still a dowel guy.....

 

I remember when Norm praised it, then rejected it confusing hobby woodworkers across the land...

Edited by BillyJack

  • Author

Dominos are no doubt stronger, but the "cost per joint" for me makes it prohibitive.   I might do loose or regular tenons, or BeadLocks.  Just take a little more time.  I am not in production and no one has seen to give me a Domino.

Dowels I am not fond of.  I've repaired hundreds of loose chair joints "secured" with dowels. Most I could just pull apart with my hands.  I read an article in FWW many years ago by wood technologist R. Bruce Hoadley (RIP).   He explained the physics of why dowels make bad joints.  Minimal glue surface, predominately end grain in the joint, and differential wood expansion axes.   Synopsis: If good dowel joints aren't the oldest joints ever made, loose ones must be, writes R. Bruce Hoadley. He studied dowel joints to find out why they fail and to discover the recipe for a joint that wood not fail.Apr 1, 1980

https://www.finewoodworking.com/1980/04/01/the-dowel-joint#:~:text=Synopsis%3A If good dowel joints,joint that wood not fail.

I continue to use biscuits for making panels where there will be little stress.  They are helpful to me to keep boards the same level until they get sanded.  I have never seen the surface change because of a biscuit, but I have read and heard others complain about them.  If you wait a few days after gluing, and the shadowing appears, it seems that a good belt sander would level out the surface.  

 

It looks like a good time to put up a thread about a Shopsmith biscuit joiner which is the only one I have.  It is too easy to use.  

 

https://www.shopsmith.com/ssacademy/Tips_Archives/TP107_Midboard_Biscuits.htm

Edited by FlGatorwood

  • Author

I have a portable joiner.  When I want to make a mid-board "butt and biscuit" joint, I mark one edge of where the piece to be cut on the end grain will go. then I lay it down and clamp in place on the line.  Line up edges with the bottom board.  I use the base of the tool as a reference edge and cut one side, flip the tool around and cut the other side.  No measuring required. Done and done.  Repeat for the other joints.

Edited by kmealy

I'll leave the subject alone and continue on. I can't compare print on paper to hands on training...

Edited by BillyJack

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