On 2/8/2020 at 12:21 AM, Gerald said:

Funny thing i thought they had brass bells.  Thanks for the inside view.

If it gets really cold, it will freeze the bells off a brass monkey. 

 

 

 

 (that despite the implication is not a lewd saying, maybe,  brass monkey held cannon balls on a ship, if it got too cold, they shrank)https://www.grammar-monster.com/sayings_proverbs/freeze_balls_off_brass_monkey.htm

... man have I got a lot to learn about wood finishes ......

 

Well first thing is to clean it up and see what I have to work with.

 

My fear is making it look too new.  Steel wool or sandpaper makes sense.  Just to kill the finish a bit.

 

We do have a few Sherwin Williams in our area.  I have gone to them for industrial primers and paints for steel.

 

Everyone around here carries Zinsser  ... I learned the need to use a shellac based sealer when the knots on my new steps bled through the paint.

 

OK .... let me turn the page and ask you guys a completely different question ....

 

I am building a workshop.  The pad is poured (3500 sq ft)  ... as soon as the weather breaks, I am outside building (built this house through three winters  ... the weather here in VT is so rough in winter, I think we spent half the time just shoveling out the house ... I said no more winter building).

 

Basic construction ... 2x6 walls  .... I am using improved T1-11 (the fake stuff .. rot proof) and painting the exterior.  For a lot of reasons (looks, durability, ...) I was going to use "real" (wood) T1-11 on the inside (I really don't like drywall).  I want it to look like wood.  I don't want to paint it.  I know I can use some kind of stain but I was thinking of linseed oil.  I used it years ago on a tool chest I made ... looked great ... smelled great ...  is there a reason I would not want to use it?  Can it be bought in large quantities (5 gal pails) ... I checked Lowes and HD, both had 1 gal cans and it was fairly expensive.  Is there a better option?

 

The wall area is about 3500 sq ft and the ceiling another 3500 sq ft.

 

 

 

 

I would not recommend Linseed oil in exterior application . It is not water proof and will give no protection. I am not familiar with the material you plan to use so I am no help there

Sorry  ... I meant on the interior.

 

I am using the engineered T1-11 on the outside and will give it two coats of latex paint.

 

It is on the inside I am trying to figure out what to do.

 

I don't like the look of drywall ... and it is not very durable in a shop where it will get hit and such.

 

I am thinking real wood T1-11.  To keep it looking like wood, either light stain or linseed oil.

 

Just thinking which will be better and why.

 

Mike

 

Mike, what is this "fake stuff T1-11" you speak of.  Never heard of it, but I would like to know more.

If I can make a recommendation for the interior, I would vote for paint - specifically a white paint.  It will reflect light back and make the whole shop brighter and therefore easier to work in.

 

Now, can we help you spend some more money?  How high are the ceilings?  Will this also serve as garage parking?  Will it be 1, 1 1/2, 2 story?  How about electrical service, lighting, dust collection?

OK ... maybe I should start from scratch here.  After building the house, I think I have made every mistake I could ... and the ones others made I had to repair (that is a long story ... even had to go back and double up the floor joists and replace two 12" LVL's with three 16" LVL's)

 

So, that pad is floating (ok already a mistake ... I was talked into it by the concrete guy)  ... it has a thickened edge (almost 16") ... it has a lot of rebar in it  ... has cracks all over but has not moved.

 

It is 64 x 52 plus the small just out  ... door going into the office area.

 

I am planning three bays  .... each about 20 x 50.

 

I need to be able to drive the RV into it  .... so 16' walls ... 14 ft doors.

 

One bay (the one at the end without the office) will not have garage style door.  The office is in front (about ) and the area behind (about 36 x 20) is the metal working shop.

 

The middle bay is for wood working  ... or any other large project ... the end bay is storage for the RV and ???

 

The power panel is already it  ... 400 amp service ... 200 went to the house .. 200 amp breaker already has conduit to it and comes up inside the slab.

 

I already have a water line and a natural gas line run out to the slab.

 

My thinking is with a typical roof, I will have about 1000 sq ft of usable storage above the center bay.

 

I was planning typical 2 x 6 construction.

 

Here is where I begin to "cheat"

 

The budget is tight.  Rather than sheet the house then put on siding, I was thinking of just the T1-11 right on the studs ( well over tyvek).

 

I am looking at something like Roseburg DuraTemp.  7/16"  ... $34 a sheet from HD.  Comes preprimed.

 

I can use standard fiberglass insulation in the walls ....

 

Cover the inside with "real" ... upainted wood .. T1-11 .... very durable and give an old time workshop feel.

 

Attached are some of my parliamentary drawings.  I dropped the ideal of stamped stone on the bottom (again, cost) ... I will probably just buy doors rather than make my own.   Maybe drop the large overhang in the front.  Also no posts or LVL's inside.  I will be putting up a 2 x 6 wall separating the bays so don't need them.

 

I figure I have two months to get my butt in gear.  I need to be ready to go when the snow clears.  For the past two summers I got distracted (twice by work .. once I ended up in the hospital) ... I got to get this up.  I have a complete machine shop sitting in a tractor trailer beside the house.

 

I am completely open at this point in time ... any and all ideas welcome  .... just remember, money is tight

 

 

9 hours ago, Cal said:

Mike, what is this "fake stuff T1-11" you speak of.  Never heard of it, but I would like to know more.

I got some LP "SmartSide" last year to re-side my shed.  I used it the year before in southern MS on a mission trip to re-side a resident's shed.   It appears to be an impregnated sort of OSB with a primer on it.   I did the T1-11 style paneling and did the corners with 1x2 stock.  Too early to tell how mine is doing and did not get to follow up with the owner in MS.  50 year pro-rated warranty.

I will also vote for white on walls. It really enhances the shop experience.

 

You have probably considered this but in putting electrical in for the shop areas outlets every 6 to 8 feet with banked outlets . Use conduit and also put in outlets or empty boxes at bench height. You will need air so go ahead and plumb that in too and will save lots of headaches getting it where you need it.

 

I might have missed it but what is the ceiling choice?

I am not sure of the ceiling ... it is high .. 16 ft  ... I will put about 24" of insulation in it.

 

Maybe thin plywood or even hardboard ... just something to seal it up and hold up the insulation.

 

Yes, I did that in my last shop .... conduit on the walls and plugs everywhere.  Definitely air.  I worked for a compressor shop once and picked up a good cast iron pressure lubricated two stage.