Ok so I need some advice about depth of a workbench / outfeed table I am about to build. So far height will be 36 & 1/2” by 44” wide. I have a fairly large table saw so I don’t need a ridiculous amount of out feed I don’t think. I have a Delta 36-725 for the record in half to 3/4 of a garage and with everything else in there not a ton of pathway. This is more like an assembly / outfeed bench. I just wanted to get some suggestions on how much depth I should build without wanting to rebuild it bigger a year later or get mad it’s too cumbersome. Max I can squeeze is around 30” maybe 36” if I move a few things around. I plan it being a multifunctional shop but mostly furniture and shop projects for its use. I’m going for minimal yet functional. Thanks y’all!  

What is the longest piece you envision ripping? Only as much out feed is needed to keep that length from dropping. With the aid of adjustable and moveable out feed rollers, you could easily get by with less. And, those roller stands won't be in your way when not in use. 

My bench is 44" by 8 '. But, its not an out feed table. I can appreciate the desire for a large bench. I love mine. My shop is 26' by 36', though. 

 

That’s a brilliant ideal Gene thank you. The longest boards I currently use are 4’ but rarely do I rip to the full length. So the rollers would be perfect for that aspect because like you said I could put them away afterwards. I would love to build a bench that big but just don’t have the room unfortunately. As per an assembly bench what do you think a safe minimum would be? I work on some decent sized furniture but usually break it down into smaller pieces and then do a good size final assembly wherever I can find room. I guess I am kind of answering my own question here. But it’s good to confirm through wider and more experienced people because you don’t always answer your own questions correctly! 

*wiser not wider (stupid auto correct)

Another thought because you mentioned limited space would be to keep it short enough to allow it to fold down and not hit the floor 

Take advantage of the tables saw space that is normally wasted.  While this is an extreme example of using that space the idea is sound.

 

My twin tablesaw set up is 72 wide and 44 inches deep.

 

There was a plan for assembly table in two or three sizes so that they could be stacked for shorter stuff and pick the single height you need for other work.

Personally I assemble on my bench and like Gene my shop is 24 x 36. My outfeed is a table on wheels about 2 x 4. It has shelves underneath .

Ohhhh.... I think, no I’m positive I just pissed myself. That thing is tits!!! Where’s the 8 track go in there? I really like the folding idea and it keeps me from buying anything. Thanks Butcher!

6 minutes ago, Woodpeckah said:

I think, no I’m positive I just pissed myself.

 

Took about 5 months of evening work to build.

Really nice build Butcher, that would have taken me 5 years to finish with that much detail. And thank you for the suggestion Gerald I will definitely look around here for the stacking assembly table. Sounds interesting, that is great ideal as well. Instead of buying rollers buying wheels and building a rollaway outfeed that you could gap for longer cuts. Then build a fold out assembly table or extension underneath. Thank you guys very much. This is exactly why I wanted to ask before I put hammer to nail!

 Not a good picture of my outfeed table but is easy to build.... The main reason I finally went to a roller out feed table is every time I went to use it there was 500 things sitting on the solid table that had to be moved somewhere.....If you have a welder then all the rest is just square tubing,

1 1/2" electrical pvc and regular cheap go-cart bearings....It will fold down when I need the extra room it takes up... oh yes for the rods I used used 5/8" oil field sucker rods... being it the oil country it is cheap and easy to get. I use lots of oil field sucker rod...That is it also in the middle of that thing standing up on the table saw as a bearing for that eight sided box I am building also know as my BB 88 GA PC.

  If you use your table saw to cut up a 4x8 sheet of plywood then this roller table will hold it so I can handle the pllllllllllllllllywood  without the help from the kitchen area. Every thing I build has a good lesson history behind it....

I think it depends on what you're cutting.  I found I do a lot of ripping, max 48"L, up to 24" W, and I want it to disappear at times.  I tried rollers, but I had a lot of trouble finding the "sweet spot" where the work just kissed onto the roller without tipping it over.  So, I made a platform that's held by two machine screws + wingnuts, on top of the roller.  I found that I didn't need to exactly match the TS table height, so I used 3/8" ply, and that's enough that the workpiece doesn't fall onto the floor or try to tip up while still being cut.  

If you want a drop down one can be attached to the back rail with hinges so it can be put away when not in use.

This plan is on Rockler website.

 

This is a Youtube plan.

 

If you search YouTube there are several video plans.

4 hours ago, PeteM said:

I found that I didn't need to exactly match the TS table height, so I used 3/8" ply, and that's enough that the workpiece doesn't fall onto the floor or try to tip up while still being cut. 

Used a similar set up with a removable piece of Lexan so I could use the back bar on the fence.  Worked well for a long time until I got the 2nd saw and build the single cabinet for both saws.

My outfield table doubles as my main workbench and assembly table. It is 40" deep, 68" long. The height is set to be about 1/8" less than the height of the table saw. The length matches the length of the my table saw, which is a SawStop with a 36" side. With the 40 inch depth and the distance from the back of the saw blade to the back edge of the outfield table, I can saw an 8 ft length without tipping. The top of the table is based on torsion box construction and has a renewable top. It is edge with 8/4 hard maple. I have a vise attached as well. It lovely based on  Shopnotes Vol. 19 Issue 112. I can provide details via drawings if you are interested in pursuing it further.  

6 hours ago, Gerald said:

If you want a drop down one can be attached to the back rail with hinges so it can be put away when not in use.

 

Problem is that contractor style saw's motor is in the way, can't hinge.  

16 hours ago, PeteM said:

Problem is that contractor style saw's motor is in the way, can't hinge.  

You could build a shelf out over motor to hinge to.

3 hours ago, Gerald said:

You could build a shelf out over motor to hinge to.

I did this on my old set up, was very convenient.

 

13 hours ago, Gerald said:

You could build a shelf out over motor to hinge to.

KIS:  I already had the roller stand, and two machine screws fix wood to flange.  Not shown in these pics,  but I eventually put a hole in the end and hang it on the wall.  Easy peasy, out of the way.

Moved this topic from Tips to General Woodworking Forum.