I have a table saw with a 32" right had table.  That works if my peice to be cut to length is shorter than 32" .

If I am cutting something 36"  I can use my chop saw but that is not accurate unless  you have a stop.

I can use my band saw but again that can be trouble some.

 

How do you accuratly cross cut to the final length when the length is longer that your normal tools.  

Because this is a stand I need 4 peices the exact same length 32 1/2" and 4 other peices the same length 36".

Any advise would be highly appreciated.

 

If I understand everything correctly, this might work for you.  Your 32" right hand table will still support a 36" piece.  Cut four pieces longer than 36".  As long as you have one square cut for one end of your finished piece, it will be OK.  Mark a cut length of 36 " on one piece.  Move your rip fence to the left of the blade, and your miter fence to the right of the blade.  Or if your left table is wide enough, you can just leave everything as is.  Clamp a stop block to your rip fence, and with power off, put your work piece up to the blade, and adjust the position of the rip fence so that you are cutting off the correct amount of wood to result in a 36" cut.  I would also put an auxiliary fence on your miter gauge if you don't already have one.  With the rip fence clamped down securely, move the stop block back towards the front of the saw, so that your cut off doesn't become trapped between the blade and the stop block and cause a kick back.  Now make your cut.  BTW, make sure your initial length of more than 36" is the same on all four pieces, so that when you cut the same amount off one end, what is left is the same and correct length on all four pieces.  And once you get it all set up, before you start cutting, if it doesn't feel right or feels unsafe, then it probably is.  Back off, and re-think everything.  

Michael, you can also build a cross cut sled for your table saw, doing away with the fence all together.

Here is my simple version, disregard the other accessory on the sled, it's a dedicated angle jig for rocker head rests, but the sled portion allows you to cut virtually any length square at the end.

I knew there had to be an easier way than mine.  I was just thinking as I typed.

1 minute ago, PostalTom said:

I knew there had to be an easier way than mine.  I was just thinking as I typed.

Tom, I used to use a board on my miter gauge too, it works great.

+1 for the crosscut sled.

You can just use the mitre gauge if all you need is an accurate 90 degree cut . I presume this is a board and not a large sheet of ply. You will just need support off the table.

I have been known to clamp them or double stick tape them together and cut them all at the same time.

So there you go. Both the miter gauge and the sled work great. I'd suggest building a sled because once you do you will find yourself using it all the time.

+2 on the sled. 

5 hours ago, John Morris said:

Michael, you can also build a cross cut sled for your table saw, doing away with the fence all together.

Here is my simple version, disregard the other accessory on the sled, it's a dedicated angle jig for rocker head rests, but the sled portion allows you to cut virtually any length square at the end.

I have a panel sled but I need to clamp the 4 peices of wood together to cut them and one board. 

I can do that by clamping them all together and hopefully they do not move relative to each other.

Thanks I will give that a shot.

 

+3 on the sled.  If I'm not using that, I'm generally ripping or using another jig.

 

It's also dangerous to use a rip fence for cutoffs unless you are using a block that will be free of the piece when the cut starts.   Too much chance of binding and throwback.

That's where I use my 3/2/1 block, always......

2 hours ago, kmealy said:

t's also dangerous to use a rip fence for cutoffs unless you are using a block that will be free of the piece when the cut starts.   Too much chance of binding and throwback

Yep, just like I said.

 

8 hours ago, PostalTom said:

With the rip fence clamped down securely, move the stop block back towards the front of the saw, so that your cut off doesn't become trapped between the blade and the stop block and cause a kick back.

 

For repeatability and safety, I don't think you can beat a sled.  

9 hours ago, sreilly24590 said:

So there you go. Both the miter gauge and the sled work great. I'd suggest building a sled because once you do you will find yourself using it all the time.

Few years back I finally broke down and joined the sled crowd.  Amazing how often I use them, very quick, precise when set-up correctly and allow for repetitive cuts.  You build it to what suits you, learn what you do and don't like and design a better one or improve your own design.

I’m also for the sled. I made one using a 48” piece of plywood and then you can put your stop anywhere along the back and cut all the pieces the same.

 

Hard to beat a good sled. 

Got the current WOOD Magazine today.   There's a good article on making a crosscut sled by William Ng.   It uses his 5-cut method for getting a very accurate 90 degree cut set up as well as a lot of good construction techniques.   Mine is getting shop-worn and I may just have to put one of these on my to-do list.

William has a video that shows his method of squaring the fence which goes into great detail. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbG-n--LFgQ

I saw that article, but I haven`t read it closely.  If you guys say it is good, then that is enough for me.  I also need a new sled.  Adding it to my PIW.  (Projects-in-waiting)