New Turner First Project

[Thad]

Hey folks!

 

I'm a new turner.  Just been making shavings trying to learn the tools but I think I'm ready for my first project.  I need some tool handles for some carbide turning tools I picked up.  I have quite a bit of sassafrass just lying around so I think that would make some good handles.  I'll be posting pics (of course) and I'm open to any and all critiques, tips and general advise.  The pieces are about 8", 9" and 10" long by about 2.5" in diameter.  My first step will be to shape the handles, then I need to find something to use as ferrules before attempting to mount the tools.  Thanks for putting up with "the new guy". 

 

[Jim L]

Thad - welcome to TPW!  Copper pipe makes a beautiful ferrule, easy to cut, sand, polish and finish.  Good luck with the handles!

[Thad]

7 minutes ago, Jim from Easy Wood Tools said:

Thad - welcome to TPW!  Copper pipe makes a beautiful ferrule, easy to cut, sand, polish and finish.  Good luck with the handles!

Thanks for the tip.  I just watched Mike Peace's handle making video and he suggested the copper pipe or even copper couplings.

By the way....sassafrass smells AWESOME when you're turning it!

Edited February 21, 2019 by Thad
Adding content, spelling

[lew]

We are looking forward to seeing those handles!

 

Sometimes, using a branch centered on the turning can cause some cracking problems as it dries. If you have something large enough to split and avoid the pith, it may give you a little better turning.

 

 

As Jim said, copper pipe makes great ferrules! Also, depending on what you have available, large brass compression fitting sill also work but may need some shaping on the outside- depending on what you are making.

[lew]

A couple of notes about Sassafras. I've heard some folks have a reaction to it-

 

https://www.wood-database.com/sassafras/

 

https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/

[Thad]

8 minutes ago, lew said:

Sometimes, using a branch centered on the turning can cause some cracking problems as it dries. If you have something large enough to split and avoid the pith, it may give you a little better turning.

Thanks for the tip.  I don't have anything that big right now.  The handles will be relatively small so I'm hoping that will cut down on some of the splitting. 

 

6 minutes ago, lew said:

A couple of notes about Sassafras. I've heard some folks have a reaction to it-

 

https://www.wood-database.com/sassafras/

 

https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/

Thanks for the heads up.  I've been around sassafrass a lot.  I still enjoy making sassafrass tea occasionally.  Also, I use a particulate mask and faceshield when turning.  I work as a safety rep for the oil and gas industry, so if any of my guys saw me without the proper PPE, I would never hear the end of it.

[Thad]

First handle roughed out......Now, on to the shaping!

 

Edited February 21, 2019 by Thad

[lew]

Alright!!!!

[Steve Krumanaker]

Late to the party here but it looks like you're in good hands and already have a lot of good advice. Mike Peace is a very accomplished turner and he does good videos so you made a great choice learning from him. I will add that I make almost of my own handles and I also use copper pipe, rather copper couplings as they are just a little larger in diameter and I can get two ferrules from one coupling. Looking forward to your finished pics and welcome to the vortex!!

 

Steve

[Thad]

Finally finished with the shaping.  Then some BLO, drill the hole and set the tool.  Looks like crap, off center, not very aesthetically pleasing, but it'll do 'til I build another one (and another.....and another....).

Next time, I'll start with better and bigger stock and will have more of a plan for the finished product rather than just "winging it".

 

 

[HandyDan]

Looking good.  With the metal shank being so I assume you will be doing pens.  The handle needs to be longer if you plan on using it for bigger stuff for control purposes.

[Thad]

10 minutes ago, HandyDan said:

Looking good.  With the metal shank being so I assume you will be doing pens.  The handle needs to be longer if you plan on using it for bigger stuff for control purposes.

Definitely some design changes to be made for the next one.   I'm just glad to have finished a project.  Lots learned this go round.

[Gunny]

You have to start somewhere, and starting is usually the hardest part.  Don't beat yourself up to bad about the 1st one, heck I can show you lots worse to include some pens that I keep around.  And I am by no means a turning expert.  Stay at it.  I look forward to seeing the next creation.  

[Gerald]

That is a start. To help with centering the tool it is best to drill the hole with the workpiece on the lathe before final shaping. Then place the cone center on the tailstock and place the drilled hole over it. This will give you a centered straight hole to mount your tool every time.

   You might want to look at the Thompson Lathe Tools site for a article on making handles including how to mount a tool with a flat tang.

Edited February 22, 2019 by Gerald

[Cliff]

On 2/21/2019 at 7:04 PM, Thad said:

Definitely some design changes to be made for the next one. 

there always are. 

I made mine so that I  can wrap my hand around for a good gt rip and long enough  so I can tuck  'em under my arm if I feel the need.  I haven't done that yet.

I prefer steel over copper for ferrules  copper is easy to find but  will stretch and deform easily  which  a good ferrule should never do.

 I dunno what that tool is   it sort of looks like a braised carbide  metal lathe tool.   Have you gotten into looking at tools yet?  Thompson is a nice place to start   they are made of powdered metal and   you can not easily distemper them  by being  too enthusiastic  when grinding   http://thompsonlathetools.com/product-list/

[lew]

8 minutes ago, Cliff said:

by being  too enthusiastic  when grinding 

...or Easy Wood Tools- no grinding at all  

[Gerald]

4 hours ago, Cliff said:

there always are. 

I made mine so that I  can wrap my hand around for a good gt rip and long enough  so I can tuck  'em under my arm if I feel the need.  I haven't done that yet.

I prefer steel over copper for ferrules  copper is easy to find but  will stretch and deform easily  which  a good ferrule should never do.

 I dunno what that tool is   it sort of looks like a braised carbide  metal lathe tool.   Have you gotten into looking at tools yet?  Thompson is a nice place to start   they are made of powdered metal and   you can not easily distemper them  by being  too enthusiastic  when grinding   http://thompsonlathetools.com/product-list/

If you have a thick enough tenon to mount the ferrule the material used is a mote point because usually the wood will break first anyway.

[Cliff]

7 hours ago, Gerald said:

because usually the wood will break first anyway. 

I have always  thought that  preventing the wood from a failing was  precisely why a ferrule is used.  At least that's why I use them.  The stronger material  holds the wood tightly.  My ferrules are  hammered on. It's a substantial interference fit. 

Which latter point is another reason not to use a soft material with a  low youngs modulus because it'll deform easily.

 

Edited March 6, 2019 by Cliff

[Gerald]

56 minutes ago, Cliff said:

I have always  thought that  preventing the wood from a failing was  precisely why a ferrule is used.  At least that's why I use them.  The stronger material  holds the wood tightly.  My ferrules are  hammered on. It's a substantial interference fit. 

Which latter point is another reason not to use a soft material with a  low youngs modulus because it'll deform easily.

 

My point exactly . The metal used is not significant as it will be the last to fail. There is still a weak point past the ferule where the wood is thin , before it gets thicker.

[Gunny]

1 hour ago, Cliff said:

low youngs modulus

For those wanting to know as I did what this means:

 

 

Young's modulus measures the resistance of a material to elastic (recoverable) deformation under load. A stiff material has a high Young's modulus and changes its shape only slightly under elastic loads (e.g. diamond). A flexible material has a low Young's modulus and changes its shape considerably (e.g. rubbers).