For years I always had access to either an 250 amp AC or 225 amp AC/DC stick as well as oxy/acetylene gas to weld and did a fair amount of welding in the farm equipment trade. I completed a local trade school course many years ago for stick & gas which also included MIG at the time. I also was "schooled" by/ with some old timers who ran fab shops and welding services. During my last couple of years in manufacturing I had upper level responsibility for an in-house welding training program which could grant AWS certifications so overall I have enough experience to be totally dangerous. By no means am I an expert however I'm pretty proficient in stick (arc) & gas welding although not AWS or Marine Society certified in any capacity,

 

While not woodworking related specifically, I know some of you have welding backgrounds, welding experience or do some hobby welding along with your WW'ing. Anyways, I've been considering/ looking at a flux core model for some time. I have a small 220V, 85amp, hobby stick welder I bought several years ago. Almost all of my welding anymore is hobby type welding...light gauge steel up to about 1/4" plate. It does a decent job for most things, but a wire welder would work better for some applications. Would I like to have a MIG? Sure...can I justify it? Doubtful.

 

I've looked at the H-F 90 and now 125 Flux core as well as Campbell-Hausfield's similar model and some of the pricier Lincolns, Hobarts and others. However, the H-F version gets pretty good reviews and generally seems to be trouble free and most always is the more budget friendly The lowest price I've ever seen it at is $87.99 with a coupon. That's only once or twice a year and for very short duration. Typically with coupon you can get one for $99.99-$109.99.

 

During one of our Christmas shopping excursions while at Rural King (toys for the boys) I saw a pallet load of 125, Metalman, flux core welder with similar specs to the H-F and C-H. Made probably in the same off-shore factory, IDK. Anyway, regular price $79.99 on sale for $69.99...didn't buy one then, but was tempted. After New Years, I stopped at R-K and decided to see if any were left. To my surprise, two remained, so I bought one at $69.99 + tax. It's not a Lincoln, but neither am I.

 

It didn't come with a small roll (2lb) of wire or the handheld face shield (which is worthless unless you're watching someone weld) like the H-F but did come with a couple of spare nozzles tips (.035??), a cheapo combination wire brush and chipping "hammer." It has a full 1 year warranty vs 90 day for the H-F (unless you pay extra) nor did it come with a "free flashlight" but H-F is not always the best value. Opened the box, all looks good. It has some heft to it too. I'll get spools of .030 &.035 wire and some extra tips and give it a go when spring gets here and report back.

 

Already downloaded a manual from the SITE.

 

  

 

   

 

It will probably do well for you Dave.  I have hardly ever used the flux core wire.  For welding outdoors I have been able to tame the wind by hanging a tarp or two.  I really like the mig over the stick.  I still use the stick for welds on thick metals but that is a rarity.  Let us know how it works.  I will be interested in how well the slag chips off for making multiple passes.  Good luck with it. 

I never used a stick welder enough to get proficient with them.  When I took auto body classes I learned mig, and never looked back.

Be sure to report back to us in the spring.

7 hours ago, HandyDan said:

I will be interested in how well the slag chips off for making multiple passes.

That's one of the concerns I have along with the amount of spatter. Seems the flux core doesn't perform well with dirty or rusty metal but a R/A grinder and flap wheel should mostly tend to that. 

52 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said:

That's one of the concerns I have along with the amount of spatter. Seems the flux core doesn't perform well with dirty or rusty metal but a R/A grinder and flap wheel should mostly tend to that. 

 

Same for the wire and Argon mix.  Has to be clean or should be. 

1 hour ago, Grandpadave52 said:

That's one of the concerns I have along with the amount of spatter. Seems the flux core doesn't perform well with dirty or rusty metal but a R/A grinder and flap wheel should mostly tend to that. 

Good luck with the welder, Gramps! I have the 90 amp HF version I bought for one job and it barely strikes an arc. It is inconsistent at best, good bead, bad bead, depending on how you are holding your mouth at the time. You better have a GOOD ground and a very clean base material.

 

I bought it when I refurbished my utility trailer. It has a drop gate with an expanded metal screen that forms the ramp. I needed to have the screen tack welded back to the frame in several places, and a couple of rusted through areas in the tubing fixed. Since I no longer owned a welder I was going to hire it out. Then I realized I could spend a couple of hundred dollars to have someone come weld it or spend $90 and do it myself.

 

I had to laugh when I checked out and they asked me if I wanted the extended warranty. I explained to the woman, that, the unit only needed to get me through one job. Any use after that was a bonus. It was a DISPOSABLE TOOL! It barely did the job on the trailer but it got done what it was bought to do. Since then it has done several very light duty jobs, like making nut plates, etc.

 

The only suggestion I have is to throw away the wire spool that comes with it and go buy GOOD wire. I use the Hobart brand from the BB stores or Tractor Supply or your local welding supply place. Does much better.

Edited January 21, 20197 yr by schnewj

We have one of these small units at work for jobs on bigger trucks we cannot get into the shop or close enough for our extension cord to reach for the big boys.  Works well but use good wire, we get ours from a local welding supply company.  It works well, not as good of penetration for the larger thickness stock but mostly we are less than 3/16 so not a problem.  A wire wheel on a air grinder gets a good clean ground contact and that is a MUST for the thing to work.

 

Note: I don't do much welding at work, they hired me for other skills.  On the rare occasion I am asked I get it done and it holds but pretty is not in the mix!

 The size of the extension cord is critical on these units also.   Too small of cord and it just pushes the wire out without enough current to do anything.   Roly

29 minutes ago, Roly said:

 The size of the extension cord is critical on these units also.   Too small of cord and it just pushes the wire out without enough current to do anything.   Roly

Thanks Roly. Good to know....I have 12/3, 25' that should be long enough for anything I'll need to get at. All of my garage 110V outlets are rated 20 amp.

 

2 hours ago, schnewj said:

The only suggestion I have is to throw away the wire spool that comes with it and go buy GOOD wire.

This one didn't come with any wire. Probably why is was $20+ cheaper than H-F Surprisingly, Rural King has Hobart flux core priced in the same range as H-F.  No free flashlights but they do have free popcorn and coffee.

As a retired professional welder, I have to admit that Flux core mig welding is something I've never tried. The main issues I've heard, are the amount of splatter and trapping slag in the welds. In my 4 years as an apprentice welder,  and about 40 as  a professional welder, never did anyone suggest flux core welding as a suitable alternative for a quality weld.

You can try it Dave but I'm not going to recommend putting the money into it. I know I wouldn't.

Edited January 21, 20197 yr by It Was Al B

Really depends on application.  You are not building the Empire State Building and using this thing.  Small brackets and frames and such it is more than enough to get the job done.  Sometimes you just got to take the rusty hammer and drive the bloody nail in.  Don't have to be pretty.

 

My 2 cents  worth anyway.  Have yet to have anything fall apart, okay maybe that bridge was a bad idea...…….

Then there is always the great debate......push the puddle or pull the puddle.  I use both methods and either works fine.  I wonder if it would make a difference with the flux core.

 

 

I was taught to pull the puddle when welding steel and push the puddle when welding aluminum. That said, I've found pushing the puddle when welding steel also works OK, especially when making a fillet type weld, as was shown in the demo. If you try to pull the puddle when welding aluminum, that creates a problem.

Edited January 22, 20197 yr by It Was Al B

8 hours ago, HandyDan said:

Then there is always the great debate......push the puddle or pull the puddle.  I use both methods and either works fine.  I wonder if it would make a difference with the flux core.

From the several You-tube videos I've watched using flux core, same debate but most seem to recommend pulling versus pushing. I typically pull simply to see where I've been versus going.

I'll start pulling until I get used to the gun in view and the feed. With stick, that's what I'm mostly comfortable doing. I'm sure there will be a huge learning curve.

Stumbled upon this video last night from Lincoln providing several good tips when using a flux core welder. I'll need to watch it (all) again since I woke up about 1:30 AM with my headset still on and tablet battery about exhausted. Hobart and Miller have similar "schools" too. Looks like I need to stock up on some wire and 3/16" mild steel for coupons.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iD7Y57gK3yU

 

Thanks Dave.  I didn't have a computer when I tried the flux core or I probably would have looked for something like this.  I will be trying it again when it gets warm enough to be out there comfortably.

This may be a bit off topic but------- If one ever needs to cut cast iron, or steel, try this-----with stick welder turn amperage to 225 or higher if your welder has that option-----use some 6011 rod and prepare for some excitement. Be sure to have your pant leg cover your shoe tops---those little hot buggers do burn. Back in the days when I didn't have a cutting torch that was how all my metal was cut.

39 minutes ago, Marv Rall said:

This may be a bit off topic but------- If one ever needs to cut cast iron, or steel, try this-----with stick welder turn amperage to 225 or higher if your welder has that option-----use some 6011 rod and prepare for some excitement. Be sure to have your pant leg cover your shoe tops---those little hot buggers do burn. Back in the days when I didn't have a cutting torch that was how all my metal was cut.

I've done that too Marv and you're right, those buggers really burn. I also had a carbon arc torch attachment I used to use for heating + brazing also...that was a challenge learning to use.

 

If I had more money than sense, well in fact I do so not a good analogy, so I'll rephrase; If I had plenty of extra disposable cash, I'd own a plasma cutter not that I really could justify one.

The carbon arc torch makes a good wood burner...

 

 

Edited March 5, 20206 yr by Kevin Beitz

I've used carbon arc for cutting and gouging steel. Never seen what you have pictured here.