https://www.popularwoodworking.com/tools/smooth-silk-perfect-countersink

That is a good tip lew. I have done that and it does come out the best.

 

I would like to get a good countersink. I have a half dozen of them and not happy with any of them on wood. Some work great on metal, not all metals, but have never found a good one just for wood. The ones that are intregal with a drill bit for screws are kind of iffy when it comes to countersinking.

 

Herb

Another tip is to drill the pilot hole and then, run the counter sink backwards. 

25 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

Another tip is to drill the pilot hole and then, run the counter sink backwards. 

Does that fill the hole back up again?

Herb

12 hours ago, Dadio said:

Does that fill the hole back up again?

Herb

Not if you hold your mouth right. Helps to close one eye, too.

I have ones with 1,2, 4 flutes, a hole in the side all the way through. Some with different angles, does anyone have one they really like?

 

Herb

Edited August 28, 20187 yr by Dadio

I use almost all #8 square drive screws and I have had good holes using the Snappy . Would be nice to have a 4 flute but I do not do that much flat work anymore.

The ones with the hole through the side have become my favorite...unfortunately they need a hole in place to use. I have a few of the fluted ones and I will give that trick a try.

Hmmm...

Maybe more about the drill being used? 

Have a second such drill, to do the pilot holes....

 

You might be on to something ,Steven, I am going to experiment with the speed that I drill the countersink. Maybe slower is better?

 

The fact that it needs a hole first is not a big deal, for bench work 2 drill motors can be set up, one with the drill and one with the counter sink. I prefer to drill at least a pilot hole first anyway, a countersink without one can wander off center easily. When I was a kid working at Boeing, we had those countersinks that could be set for depth and plunged to cut and spring returned. They worked good for metal, not sure how they might work for wood. Like these:

 

https://www.browntool.com/Listview/tabid/344/CategoryID/62/Level/a/ProductID/223/Default.aspx

 

Herb

Dadio I am with you.  I have vix bit that are designed to fit perfectly centered in a counter sink then drill a hole.

I also have a counter sink that I use after I drill the hole.  It has two flutes.  You start off realy slow then once it centers on the hole you speed up.  I use a powered drill so I am probably much faster than you.  The two flute is getting dull does anyone know how to sharpen this?

The ones I have, are 7 flutes....yes, I do have two, one in use for #6 screws...the other for larger screws

 

Usually, a needle file is used on the flat of each flute...not on the sloped part.   Just a flat needle file.

2 hours ago, Dadio said:

You might be on to something ,Steven, I am going to experiment with the speed that I drill the countersink. Maybe slower is better?

 

The fact that it needs a hole first is not a big deal, for bench work 2 drill motors can be set up, one with the drill and one with the counter sink. I prefer to drill at least a pilot hole first anyway, a countersink without one can wander off center easily. When I was a kid working at Boeing, we had those countersinks that could be set for depth and plunged to cut and spring returned. They worked good for metal, not sure how they might work for wood. Like these:

 

https://www.browntool.com/Listview/tabid/344/CategoryID/62/Level/a/ProductID/223/Default.aspx

 

Herb

Might try drilling the pilot holes from the "inside" of the board.....then allow the countersink to also clean up where the bit came out...

Try using a single flute bit.

 

Not necessarily from Woodcraft but any good brand.

 

 

16 minutes ago, Warped & Twisted said:

Try using a single flute bit.

 

Those are the best in wood even with a predrilled hole. 

The multi-flute work better when there is no hole predrilled.  They always seen to chatter in a predrilled hole even in steel.

18 minutes ago, HandyDan said:

 

Those are the best in wood even with a predrilled hole. 

The multi-flute work better when there is no hole predrilled.  They always seen to chatter in a predrilled hole even in steel.

To be perfectly honest the places I usually put screws doesen't require perfect countersinks.

Edited January 24, 20197 yr by Warped & Twisted

I found that running the CS bit backwards will smooth out the hole.  Also, running it forward, but very slow will reduce the chatter.

there is nothing like a zero flute CS...

 

I use the expensive 4 flute  bits with the custom drill bit in it.  I've always found coming at the hole once for the drillbit, twice to start the countersink, then the final time is to put the countersink just below the surface.