Three things about oil finishes and closely related oil-varnish finishes.   The latter is simply a blend of (three things)

• oil (usually linseed)
• varnish (alkyd, urethane, or phenolic or a mix of these)
• thinner

The proportions vary a lot and these three things mix in any proportion the manufacturer or you want.   You can even make your own; most people start with equal amounts of each.  When I was a newbie, I even took a commercial Danish Oil and added varnish to it to "beef it up a bit." 

 

Oil and oil-vanish blends are probably the most mislabeled or misleading labeled products.  For example, when you buy a "Tung Oil Finish" there may be not tung oil at all - it might be an oil-varnish blend, or just a thinned wiping varnish.  And what about "teak oil finish," "Danish oil finish," "Val-oil," "Antique Oil," or a "Oil-urethane blend" (that is actually just a thinned wiping varnish?  How do you tell what you have?  The best way is to put a drop or two on some glass and let it cure.   If it's smooth and hard, it's a varnish.  If it's soft and wrinkly, it's an oil  And if it's smooth and hard in the middle and wrinkly around the edge, it's a blend.   The more wrinkly, the higher percent of oil.  https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use

 

Anyway, on with the show:

 

Three things:

Pros

+ easy to apply - simply wipe on, wait a few minutes (more for pure oils, less for oil-varnish blends) wipe off, repeat (a day later).  Does not have brush marks, drips, runs, and dust nibs if you wipe excess.

+ easy to refresh - wipe on, wipe off another coat even years later

+ soft, "in the wood" finish  - does not form a film finish so the texture of the wood is visible and tactile

 

Cons

- needs refreshing - over time the finish can dull and look listless.  Some say it crystallizes and sloughs off

- minimal protection - very little protection from abrasion, water, soiling, and other contaminates

- can’t build film - you cannot build a film that you can provide more protection.   If you try, you can end up with a soft and sticky surface.  On ring-porous woods like oak, you can also get some bleed-back that forms little dry bubble globs if you leave it on too thick.   On these woods, you may need to come back every few hours after application and wipe again.

Edited July 5, 20187 yr by kmealy

That is a good synopsis of a highly misunderstood but very useful type of finish. I use Watco Danish on many turnings as usually 2 coats and a buff and it is done except on oak the performance is medium to poor.

Thanks for another post in helping me on my journey to better finishing.