I have a few questions about hole saws. I'm trying to find a faster way to cut round blank for coasters. The coasters will have fretwork designs cut into them, then glued to a cork coaster. My current preferred size is 3 1/2" diameter.

1. smoother cut, Is there any brand that YOU have used that has a smooth finish? Yes, I understand that most of these are for rough carpentery, still.

2. I am using a DP to cut the blanks, so speed adjustment can be fairly precise. Do I need to go faster (within the limits for the size) or slower?

3. Have any of you modified the teeth on a hole saw? results? resharpened? (I am considering using a pair of vise grips to reduce the set of the teeth.

4. The hole saw I am currently using is listed as a 3 5/8 OD and was said to have an inside diameter of 3 1/2, but it's more like 3 7/16, other than changing the set of the teeth could I file a small amount form the inside of the teeth to make a precise size?

Thanks in Advance

 

Have you considered something like this-

 

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/circle-cutter-small?gclid=Cj0KCQjwuYTYBRDsARIsAJnrUXAmQ-skUF_2N6QTJNORPjOmjOsVrDpL_X-dai4bVJFyLLKFjD0rJfsaAopYEALw_wcB

 

 

Here are some thoughts about its' use-

https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/taming-the-circle-cutter-the-tool-i-love-to-hate

Edited May 20, 20188 yr by lew

I would go slow on any hole saw....Too much heat and you can destroy the temper. I use my hole saws mostly for metal. And yes even on wood heat is still the enemy...

  Also if you don't keep the set in the teeth you can create a bind which will cause more heat...

Why can't you use the scroll saw to make the circles. Especially if you use 1/8" Baltic Birch and stack cut a few at a time?

circle cutting jig on the bandsaw?

Any drill bit that large would be hard to get it to drill a smooth hole.  I think Jess has the answer with the scroll saw and any willies could be smoothed out at the oscillating spindle sander.

I found that if I used WD-40 on the hole saw it doesn't plug up with sawdust and burn. cuts easier and smoother. I use hole saws a lot for larger holes not for the wheels, but for the holes. How thick and what material are you drilling?

 

Herb

If you're going to stick pretty much to the same size, why not take the time to make a template for your router - the hole can be cut with a fly cutter as shown, sized to match the bit and template guide used. A couple of passes with the router will give you nice smooth blanks, just stick the material to a sacrificial backing board with a couple of tabs of double-stick tape.

50 minutes ago, Dadio said:

I found that if I used WD-40 on the hole saw it doesn't plug up with sawdust and burn. cuts easier and smoother. I use hole saws a lot for larger holes not for the wheels, but for the holes. How thick and what material are you drilling?

 

Herb

 

dry l;ube Herb...

works longer, cleaner and not a threat to the finishing..

I would NOT try to take the set out of teeth on a bi-metallic hole saw; perhaps give it a try on a cheap steel hole saw.   Drill press time with something that large and no centering drill bit (assumes you don't want middle hole??), and the wood piece better be locked down with a backer board.

Lets go in a different direction and use a pattern bit in router. Make a circle pattern in ply or masonite, tape it onto your board with double stick tape and use the router with pattern bit to get repeatable circles.

1 hour ago, Dadio said:

I found that if I used WD-40 on the hole saw it doesn't plug up with sawdust and burn. cuts easier and smoother. I use hole saws a lot for larger holes not for the wheels, but for the holes. How thick and what material are you drilling?

 

Herb

1/4 and 5/16 hardwoods. I am trying to get to a zero scrap state by using all the scrap as I create it. I wanted to use the hole saw because of the stability, while the piece still needs to be held down, it's not a major issue. With a fly cutter (I have two) being able to stabilize the piece would be problematic. I have tried to cut these using my scrollsaw, this must be my Achilles heel cause it just aint happening. I don't have a bandsaw or an oscillating spindle sander. I do have disk sanders one small the other is my tablesaw. I wanted to make this fairly simple - time is money-. I've seen some circle cutting jigs for the scrollsaw as well, just seems like a lot of setup for a few minutes work. A sanding jig for the disk sanders may be the way to go.

I'm recovering from hydrocell surgery, so I can't lift more than 10 lbs for the next month. Little by little, baby steps and all that.

The best hole saws that I've used are the Lenox brand. They can be aggressive with the cuts but if you use a slow speed and don't apply too much pressure it might work for you. They are a bit pricey for a one purpose tool.

56 minutes ago, It Was Al B said:

The best hole saws that I've used are the Lenox brand.

I agree AL...most of mine are Lenox...I do have a 3-1/2" but have only used it for rough construction. Not sure how it would work on thin stock. I also have a few Dewalt plus some Craftsman & Black & Decker.

 

@Wichman3...I'm not sure how one of these might work for your application of thinner stock, but could be an option??? I didn't check to see if it (or similar) is offered in 3-1/2" ID, but sure there is one.

https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Porcelain-Circular-Drilling-Drilax010080/dp/B01BVYTY5U?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B01BVYTY5U

Lenox brand is good, Milwaukee or greenlee is better. Remove the guide bit in the middle and make sure you have a 2 by for backing under the bit. Also use a fence and clamp down the piece so it doesn't spin.

Edited May 21, 20188 yr by DRAGON1