March 21, 20188 yr After the warpage problems we've had with the theater set walls, we're thinking of doing the next round (fall event) with steel studs. I've watched a few YouTube videos (always dangerous) and it seems fairly straightforward. One concern I have with moveable walls is that since they're not attached to the top and bottom plates, nor end walls, is that they will tilt into a parallelogram. Maybe diagonal corner braces will cure that? None of these walls will be load bearing in the structural sense. Also trying to figure out when you need wood inserts in the vertical studs for attaching doors, windows, etc. Anyone used them and have any words of wisdom?
March 21, 20188 yr I have seen diagonal strapping installed to prevent racking. The thin metal strap requires 2 straps installed in opposite directions as they only hold in tension. Roly
March 21, 20188 yr 2 hours ago, kmealy said: is that they will tilt into a parallelogram. they'll wrack (twist) front to back also... 2 hours ago, kmealy said: Maybe diagonal corner braces will cure that? full X bracing will be far better... which is nothing more than a strip(s) of flat metal... one thing we did to improve steel studded knee walls (wrack/twist prevention) was to use extra deep tracks (plates) and double screwed the studs both sides and both ends to the tracks.. keep in mind that every exposed edge is a cut waiting to happen... 2 hours ago, kmealy said: Also trying to figure out when you need wood inserts in the vertical studs for attaching doors, windows, etc. use 1x4's for the doors and windows facw mounted not inserted... use truss headed screws... 7/16'' seems to be the length that works the most often... Edited March 21, 20188 yr by Stick486
March 21, 20188 yr I have done a few mile of steel studs. What is the wall covering you're using? If it's not a sheet good like drywall or OSB then yes, the walls will want to wrack. As for blocking, anyplace you intend to attach or hang something like a shelve or cabinet will require something to screw into, 3/4" plywood works well. Steve
March 21, 20188 yr overall DW is only short term for wracking control before the screws tear through...
March 21, 20188 yr 30 minutes ago, Stick486 said: overall DW is only short term for wracking control before the screws tear through... Adding glue to the mix helps with that.
March 21, 20188 yr 1 hour ago, HandyDan said: Adding glue to the mix helps with that. I believe they wnat to tear down these walls and remake then for other olays
March 21, 20188 yr 1 hour ago, Stick486 said: I believe they wnat to tear down these walls and remake then for other olays Ole' Ole' Ole' Ole' Edited March 21, 20188 yr by Chips N Dust
March 21, 20188 yr 7 hours ago, Steve Krumanaker said: I have done a few mile of steel studs. What is the wall covering you're using? If it's not a sheet good like drywall or OSB then yes, the walls will want to wrack. As for blocking, anyplace you intend to attach or hang something like a shelve or cabinet will require something to screw into, 3/4" plywood works well. Steve Steve is correct. I might add, I don't think you use Drywall , plywood or masonite will keep the wall from racking. There are also stiffener bars to run horizontally through the studs, strapping to run diagonally on the back side, furring channels could be run diagonally. they run different lengths from 8' to 24' in 2' increments There are different weights of metal studs, 12 ga. 16 ga. 20ga.,X 1-1/2", 2-1/2", 3-1/2 ", to 12" wide. Around openings you can turn the studs back to back, and screw door/window jambs directly to them, or allow for a wooden wrap to be screwed on to line the opening, or turn the floor channel to insert the studs and wrap the opening. For backing to hang things ,you can use plywood like Steve suggests,or sheetmetal backing comes in rolls 4" and 6" wide to screw to face of studs. Tin snips and a screw gun plus a tape measure and ink marker is all the tools you need. http://buildipedia.com/aec-pros/construction-materials-and-methods/light-gauge-metal-stud-framing-planning-and-practices Herb
March 21, 20188 yr 6 hours ago, Stick486 said: I believe they wnat to tear down these walls and remake then for other olays Glue doesn't have to be run full length of stud. Couple spots enough to keep it from sliding around.
March 23, 20188 yr Wouldn't running cables diagonally work to keep the walls from racking. Use turnbuckles for adjusting tensions? I had a friend who ran diagonal cables in his old post and beam barn to return it to it's original position after it had somewhat settled away from square.
March 23, 20188 yr Author On 3/21/2018 at 6:29 AM, Steve Krumanaker said: I have done a few mile of steel studs. What is the wall covering you're using? If it's not a sheet good like drywall or OSB then yes, the walls will want to wrack. As for blocking, anyplace you intend to attach or hang something like a shelve or cabinet will require something to screw into, 3/4" plywood works well. Steve The most common skinning is 1/4" luaun plywood. What would you use for "glue"? Construction adhesive?
March 23, 20188 yr 7 hours ago, kmealy said: The most common skinning is 1/4" luaun plywood. What would you use for "glue"? Construction adhesive? If the walls are to be permanent, construction adhesive is probably your best choice. If they are temporary I would not use any adhesive. Steve
March 23, 20188 yr Keith, if you are using 1/4 plywood for the face, you will gain a terrific weight reduction with metal studs. You might be able to use 1 1/2" 20 ga. studs. One disadvantage is if a wall section accidentally falls, it might not survive. Herb
March 24, 20188 yr 22 hours ago, kmealy said: What would you use for "glue"? Construction adhesive? PL400
March 24, 20188 yr 8 hours ago, Dadio said: Keith, if you are using 1/4 plywood for the face, you will gain a terrific weight reduction with metal studs. You might be able to use 1 1/2" 20 ga. studs. One disadvantage is if a wall section accidentally falls, it might not survive. Herb good plan Herb...
March 24, 20188 yr Not sure that you would want to glue the plywood to the studs if you ae going to reuse the wall by taking off the plywood. That glue is more of a permanent fix. The nice part is that you can reuse the wall, by removing the ply wood, , move the door and window openings and/or frame them in solid for the next set. Herb
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