What glue would you use to attach plywood to the smooth surface of hardboard?

 

My default glue is Titebond II... but I'm concerned that it may not adhere to the smooth surface of hardboard. I can rough up the hardboard surface first with 60 grit (in the narrow strip of it that I'm gluing to) but is there a better way?

 

Additional context if needed... This is slightly more complex variant of a circular saw guide. The smooth surface of the hardboard is what the saw base will run along. A 3" wide plywood strip will serve as a fence. I can screw it from beneath after the glue is firmly set, but constructions details preclude access to do that at the time of gluing.

 

Unless the smooth side is sealed with a finish, to make it waterproof, I think you can just glue it as you would any two wooden surfaces.

 

I found this- http://www.titebond.com/product.aspx?id=0d8d5e20-0660-45f6-a61e-69ada5b855b0

Edited January 23, 20188 yr by lew

You Might try Contact Cement, use the Green stuff, no fumes.

Herb

3 hours ago, AshleyJ said:

What glue would you use to attach plywood to the smooth surface of hardboard?

 

Weldbond or PL premium and scratch/scuff up the hardboard to be glued w/ sand paper...
keep in mind the PL expands and clamping or mechanical holding is a must

Just reread your post 

3 hours ago, AshleyJ said:

I can screw it from beneath after the glue is firmly set, but constructions details preclude access to do that at the time of gluing.

 

Why not just use CA?

I deal with gluing to 1/8" hardboard on a daily basis. We glue direct printed canvas to Masonite using a water soluble  glue. A rotary press is used to get the two materials to bind, then stack with weight (about 10 pounds) until dry. No sanding, no prep other than cutting 4 x 8 panels to size.

We also use (for one offs) a spray adhesive and a vacuum press. When using this method we spray both surfaces.

 

Either method works well, the water soluble glue is for larger (piece count) runs.

Thanks for all the suggestions...

 

@Lew, you asked why I don't use CA. The primary reason is that I don't have any right now. The super fast cure would be an asset here and I was debating recently whether to buy some 3M77 or order FastCap's 2P10. I'm moving slowly on the flammable stuff though as I'm not working in an uninsulated garage which I heat with propane when working. Having never worked before in a shop with flame risk and developed appropriate mental patterns to keep me safe, I'm debating whether I even want the stuff in my shop before winter is over. It would be so easy to make a bad mistake.

 

I'll probably try Weldbond as Stick suggested. I've never used it, the description looks solid, and HD stocks it.

 

@Wichman3, is that 10 lbs or 10lbs per square inch? Unless the area is small, 10 lbs doesn't seem like much... which I suppose is good news for me. 

the reason for the scuffing is to break the surface glaze...

under duress that top layer of hardboard will peel right off like cheap duct tape..

and don't confuse Weldbond w/ Weldwood...

1 hour ago, AshleyJ said:

Thanks for all the suggestions...

 

@Lew, you asked why I don't use CA. The primary reason is that I don't have any right now. The super fast cure would be an asset here and I was debating recently whether to buy some 3M77 or order FastCap's 2P10. I'm moving slowly on the flammable stuff though as I'm not working in an uninsulated garage which I heat with propane when working. Having never worked before in a shop with flame risk and developed appropriate mental patterns to keep me safe, I'm debating whether I even want the stuff in my shop before winter is over. It would be so easy to make a bad mistake.

 

I'll probably try Weldbond as Stick suggested. I've never used it, the description looks solid, and HD stocks it.

 

@Wichman3, is that 10 lbs or 10lbs per square inch? Unless the area is small, 10 lbs doesn't seem like much... which I suppose is good news for me. 

Ten lbs total. The goal is to keep the pieces in firm contact with each other until the glue dries.

1 hour ago, Stick486 said:

the reason for the scuffing is to break the surface glaze...

under duress that top layer of hardboard will peel right off like cheap duct tape..

and don't confuse Weldbond w/ Weldwood...

How much duress does it take to delaminate the hardboard?

55 minutes ago, Wichman3 said:

How much duress does it take to delaminate the hardboard?

 

not too much.. it's only paper...

why not use Luann instead???

https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=luan+underlayment

Edited January 24, 20188 yr by Stick486

8 hours ago, Stick486 said:

 

not too much.. it's only paper...

why not use Luann instead???

https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=luan+underlayment

A big YEP to that. DAMHIK.

12 hours ago, AshleyJ said:

I was debating recently whether to buy some 3M77 or order FastCap's 2P10

I've been using DAP Rapidfuse. Works pretty good. Medium viscosity.

If your guide is going to be basically a piece of hardboard with a fence attached to the top surface, I used one similar to that for years and just attached the hardboard to the bottom of the fence with screws only. This allowed me to move the fence on the hardboard a couple of times, when the reference edge got dinged over time and also when I changed to another saw that had a different edge distance. If the construction method requires that the two parts be glued prior to installing the screws, why not just use some double-sided tape?

5 hours ago, tomp said:

If your guide is going to be basically a piece of hardboard with a fence attached to the top surface, I used one similar to that for years and just attached the hardboard to the bottom of the fence with screws only. This allowed me to move the fence on the hardboard a couple of times, when the reference edge got dinged over time and also when I changed to another saw that had a different edge distance. If the construction method requires that the two parts be glued prior to installing the screws, why not just use some double-sided tape?

I would go with the tape also as it is only to hold while you flip it over and screw it and at that point the glue or other attachment is a mote point because the screws do the job.

Double sided tape is a perfect idea which simplifies other parts of the project too.

Does anyone have a favorite double sided tape? Ideally one I may find locally at HD or Lowes or similar?

 

25 minutes ago, AshleyJ said:

Double sided tape is a perfect idea which simplifies other parts of the project too.

Does anyone have a favorite double sided tape? Ideally one I may find locally at HD or Lowes or similar?

 

Look for a cloth backed carpet tape and you should be good.  DO NOT by the foam backed.

Over the years I have used contact cement to attach Masonite to other substrates. All of my workbenches have 1/4" Masonite surfaces which have survived much abuse and are still okay---- My first of these was built in 1965---probably before many on this forum were born. Works for me.

Walmart carries 3M carpet tape. It's plenty strong.

On 1/23/2018 at 9:10 PM, Wichman3 said:

How much duress does it take to delaminate the hardboard?

 

have you considered UHMW...

sold as cutting boards at the dollar store...