Guys, I want to make a flip cart for a couple heavy tools and was hoping to get some input on how to make a strong three way corner joint for these types of carts using 2x material. Was thinking something like this but based on  the correct dimensions. 

 

Pat, the graphic link doesn't work for me.

Me neither.

How about now?

Edited December 12, 20178 yr by Pat Meeuwissen
picture

Got it!

 

looks plenty strong.  and complicated.

 

for my workbenches, i just butted the 2x4s at the corner, and then had a full 4x4 inside of those, all screwed with 3" or 3-1/2" long deck screws, and some wood glue too.  a 3x4" plywood top goes on top.  the 4x4 carries all the weight down to the floor (mine via some casters).  so, yes, the weight on the 2x4s is transferred to the 4x4 via the screws.  but how much weight are we talking about?  i've stood on mine when i was 300+, flipped them on their sides for moving in my truck (and washing), and they still carry on.

 

but that pic is a neater design.  i'm lazy and confident that the screws will carry the load.  i think i have 6 per corner into the 4x4 (3 per 2x4).  

tongue, grove and miter the the apron's butt joint...

 

 

 

 

or lock miter it...

 

 

 

or rebate rabbet it...

my preference...

 

1 hour ago, Pat Meeuwissen said:

How about now?

You figured this one out, thats a good job designing this table. You could put a Sherman tank on one side and a double plated armor truck on the other=both fully loaded. When you are finished post a picture.

Good job

 

Preston

Might try this from 2 x 4's

 

Shown like an x-ray view. Half lap joints

 

13 hours ago, Stick486 said:

tongue, grove and miter the the apron's butt joint...

 

 

 

 

or lock miter it...

 

 

 

or rebate rabbet it...

my preference...

 

Stick buddy you are missing the third member going up to create the box frame.

Here's another version I found seems to give great long grain to long grain glue surfaces?

going to be tough to get accurate pockects in the corner post

5 minutes ago, Pat Meeuwissen said:

Stick buddy you are missing the third member going up to create the box frame.

 

no I'm not...

those joints are for the apron corners...

you supply the third member as you show in your original image...

Ok I see what you mean now, just meant it wasn't in the picture. 

The joint you prefer I know as a drawer lock rabbet?

Edited December 13, 20178 yr by Pat Meeuwissen

There is absolutely no doubt in my mind that the joint you envision is plenty strong...might even be fun to do. BTW, the first graphic showed up for me...a little strange since I usually am the one who can't see the links.

I got "into" the connection geometry when I was building a gazebo.  I wanted to use a lot of timber joints.  What I found is that 2x4 isn't 12x24.  When you get into smaller thicknesses (probably 4x or smaller), the wood acts differently.  So, I think the second joint (M&T) would be better.  Another thing:  square edges are weaker than rounded ones.  You might consider loose tenons with round edges on tenons and mortises.

38 minutes ago, PeteM said:

 So, I think the second joint (M&T) would be better. 

Which one are you referencing here Pete? I have a really nice jig I made to do loose tenons which I have just for another large table build and it was very handy.

2 hours ago, Pat Meeuwissen said:

Which one are you referencing here Pete? I have a really nice jig I made to do loose tenons which I have just for another large table build and it was very handy.

Sorry, the last one you proposed, M&T, brown and green colors!

For the M&T proposal please but a ledge on the post that can carry the load of the member putting all the load thru the Tenon in shear is not advised.  Your original idea has plenty of support and the screws should only be holding it together.  They may carry some shear but the wood to wood contact will quickly take over that load.  Go with what your originally concieved.

That said it could be simpler it all depends on the weight you are going to support and where it's center of gravity is.

 

Mine, for tables....but, there is  something else added..

Glue and screws.    Holds the corner square.  

Or, rotate the corner block 90 degrees, and add a screw through and into the leg. 

 

Could offset the tongue on the 3 1/2" side to be flush maybe even make it a thru tenon to pin it (overkill probably but would look good)and make the tenon on the 1 1/2" side to be about 2 1/4" long

?????