I know little about many things, down near the bottom of the list is black iron pipe (other than used in pipe clamps). I need a fuel line to run from the floor to the ceiling (sort of), altogether this won't be more than 10' or so, but will be black iron with 7 fittings...2 connections per fittings (duh). So I want to make sure it doesn't leak when the LP guy hooks it to the tank and pressure tests it. I'm using that pipe dope stuff for gas connections, and plan on tightening those connections as tight as I can with my 14" pipe wrenches....any tips, and am I supposed to tighten them a tight as possible? The run will be a nipple through the wall for the supply, up the wall 8', with a tee in the middle (for future use, the extra leg will be plugged). The at the ceiling it comes into the room 8" and drops down for the drip leg at a tee where the line runs to the furnace (flex connection to it). All 3/4" pipe, except the last 10" or so (drip leg and stuff) which will be 1/2".

We have an LP gas "fireplace" I installed in our dining room. I used 3/8" flexible copper for the run to the LP tank- about 30 feet. Only one connector- a "T" fitting to tap off the LP line to connect to the outdoor grill. All connections are flared fittings.

In another lifetime, I ran a Scuba Diving shop. The Scuba tanks were, then, filled to  3000psi. I used teflon tape for any non-flared connection. 

Black pipe is a good idea if it is going to be exposed.  The pipe dope acts like a lubricant and if you are strong like bull and tighten it too tight the cast connectors can crack.  Don't forget to add a sediment trap at the bottom of the run.

 

 

 

Edited November 15, 20178 yr by HandyDan

use Teflon tape (LP rated) on the threads at 1 wrap per ¼'' of pipe...

use pipe dope (LP rated) on top of the Teflon tape in a micro fine wiped film/layer as a lubricant...

done yet???

Not yet, but it won't take long. I only have 2 pipe wrenches, and only one good one ( A Rigid). I may have to get another one, the Chinese job doesn't grip very well. Lew, the supply to the tank is copper, that will terminate at the regulator, then it will be black iron inside the wall. Since you aren't supposed to have joints in an enclosed space (I'm told), the pipe will be exposed on the inner wall...and I want something that might take an occasional bang/bump from something.

Galvanized is for water, black pipe is for gas. Never seen a pipe busted from over tightening but I never been around superman.

  Propane will collect in low places and natural gas will escape up. Either one will blow the walls out if you happened to have built a completely air tight house or room. Propane will blow  the bottom out first while the natural  gas will blow the top of the wall out first. Just not a good idea to have a propane heater in a cellar or basement. 

2 hours ago, HandyDan said:

Don't forget to add a sediment trap at the bottom of the run.

Absolutely! Great reminder!

Just bought some yellow teflon tape made specifically for propane/natural gas lines. It feels a bit thicker than the white stuff. Heard that the county building inspectors were going to start requiring it.

There's some opinion about the teflon tape not being as good as the dope. Apparently small pieces of it can (and do) get loose in the gas stream and clog orifices and such. Just a side note to this, several years ago I went into Lowes for some flare fittings for the LP line (different house). Skippy Stockboy helpded me find the fittings and then added: don't forget the teflon tape, you need that for gas lines".

Edited November 15, 20178 yr by Fred W. Hargis Jr

2 hours ago, Smallpatch said:

Never seen a pipe busted from over tightening

 

chinese fitting wallow/stretch/crack/poorly seal and often do not thread well...

2 minutes ago, Stick486 said:

 

chinese fitting wallow/stretch/crack/poorly seal and often do not thread well...

and that''s if you get good ones

7 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said:

and that''s if you get good ones

 

yessir!!!

forgot to mention offset threading...

Sad but true about the Chinese fittings. Also sad is the fact that seems to be about the only ones available anymore; I even asked at a plumbing supply.

18 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

Sad but true about the Chinese fittings. Also sad is the fact that seems to be about the only ones available anymore; I even asked at a plumbing supply.

When I had to replace the well pump a month ago, I needed an 1-1/4" M to 1" F bushing. Stopped at Menards and picked up a couple of what I could deem the best of the lot. Same issue as 3 years ago...Could not get it to stop leaking at the 1-1/4"  OD where it plumbed into the pump no matter how tight or how much thread tape/dope was on it.

 

Three years ago, I finally got the old one out (it was Made in Mexico) and used it...got by for a couple of days and went to four different places...all Made in China...last resort went to the Do-It-Best Hardware/Lumber yard that survives somehow in county seat. Theirs was made in Mexico still...pricey almost 3x the other, BUT it fixed it! I also used thread tape for fuels both gaseous/ liquid and fluids (hydraulic etc.).

 

Oh, yeah, all the galvanized 1" stuff I had replaced 3 years ago...JUNK...had to replace it all again.

Edited November 15, 20178 yr by Grandpadave52

3 hours ago, Smallpatch said:

Never seen a pipe busted from over tightening but I never been around superman.

 

Saw a lot of cracked fittings in propane powered forklifts.  Most of those were brass.  Some expensive regulators were cracked too.  Those were pot metal and aluminum.

1 minute ago, HandyDan said:

 

Saw a lot of cracked fittings in propane powered forklifts.  Most of those were brass.  Some expensive regulators were cracked too.  Those were pot metal and aluminum.

Most are unaware there are industry recommended torque specifications for NPT & NPTF...using a sealant or tape especially with teflon has to be factored too.

It can be challenging trying to measure applied (dynamic) torque with NPT torque without specialized equipment...most just use the German Standard Torque...guttentite

No, the reason I have never been around when a galvanized or black pipe  got busted because it was tightened  to much is because I like to hang around people with common sence, since, cents. Its just that simple.

9 hours ago, lew said:

In another lifetime, I ran a Scuba Diving shop. The Scuba tanks were, then, filled to  3000psi. I used teflon tape for any non-flared connection. 

Wow! You can fill my tanks anytime. I was lucky to talk them into 2600-2700 for my 80's, but 3000 was the norm for my Genesis tanks. I reserved those for deep dives (90+). It gave me a little cushion if there was a problem and allowed for a decent decompression stop.

Edited November 16, 20178 yr by schnewj

34 minutes ago, schnewj said:

You can fill my tanks anytime

I started out with an old military surplus gas powered compressor. It could pump to about 2500. After aluminum tanks became the norm, I went with a Bauer electric. It could pump to 3200 but was slow. I had a 10 cylinder cascade system so filling actual scuba tanks didn't take too long. Got tired of hassling with customers and know it all macho prospective students so I closed the shop and sold aff the inventory. Continued to dive for a while but it took longer and longer to get warmed up (used to ice dive in wetsuits) even a drysuit was hacking it. 100+ foot quarry dives in blackout conditions lost its' excitement and I couldn't afford trips to warm/clear water locations. Gave it up completely- figured I cheated death long enough.