Yesterday afternoon I put these 4 pieces of patterns under clear tape and made one straight enough to use. Wife got home about 4 from beauty shop and she helped me position it  after I had installed the clear packing tape on the wood then sprayed a good coat of stickum. A pattern this long its too hard not to screw up so this is why I chose to spray the stickum on to the wood instead of the back of the pattern. 

Started cutting the pieces to carve first and got this much done by dark. 

 

 So today I got to this stage of the game.

The molding is started for the glass but still needs routed around the edges. I like to use some kind of a dial about the right size for this size clock.? Not the one I will use. It just gives me time to decide what diameter might look the best.  It would be hard to satisfy everybody so I just concentrate on just me. Got to still make a box to house the movement and speaker and since I am using a movement with chimes and gongs for the hours I need to make some hidden slots to the outside so the sound will come through the walls, kinda. 

  A suggestion, when drilling  holes for inside cutting I like to sand off the back that will lay on the scroll saw. Sometimes the wood will lay wamperjawed and rock back and forth while trying to be easy and make those impossible cuts.

  Another suggestion since I think it maybe have saved me a big belt or two for the 22-44 drum sander. Simple, just slide a piece of plywood the size of the exposed belt to keep it covered while not being used. I find flat places to sit things is hard to come by and a cabinet man down the road told me he ruined a belt by a paint gun sitting there and tipped over and said thanks for the suggestion after he saw my belt covered....paint guns have hangers on the top for some reason!!!

I got ready to use the 22-44 yesterday and no workie. I found this problem.

 The problem was the screw lock thingy that keeps the cord from being pulled out of the receptacle!!. Thats the wrong end of the cord if I had been jerking the cord  to unplug it  which I am known to do quite often especially when to un plug it the right way I would have to crawl over some of my nice and tidy kept shop.

 

 

  

 

Edited August 17, 20178 yr by Smallpatch

You WERE really busy!

4 hours ago, Smallpatch said:

then sprayed a good coat of stickum.

Hey Patch, what kind/brand of stickum do you use? What will you use to remove tack from the wood? I'm not writing a book or anything, just wondering what you've found to work best for all the pattern work you do.

That has the start to be the best clock ever!

Cal

There is nothing left on the wood if you first put clear packing tape on the wood. Nothing. Dave no body reads how I describe my steps. I put clear packing tape on the wood first, then spray, spray stickum, then attach the pattern on the top of the stickup. Use to I would spray the stickum on to the pattern but after a couple of patterns which I made a wrong move a time or two and stuck the pattern to itself and ruined the patterns. I now put the spray directly on to the clear packing tape. Doing it this way I can see if I am covering the tape completely or leaving gaps where the pattern would come off while spinning the wood around during the cutting process....Patterns the size I have been working with two people makes it much easier to not screw up cause once the pattern touches the stickum thats where it will stay .

  Brands, I posted a picture of six or seven different brands of spray stickum and I can't tell the cheap or expensive if the labels are covered. Some of cans was what my wife uses in her sewing and quilt making and it works the same.

    When I am finished with the scroll saw I simply pull the clear packing tape off and there is clear pretty wood left with no residue to remove with paint thinner or lacquer thinner, nothing. 

  Also Gene tells in his explaining people will have to reverse the pattern to get the correct side up... You leave me there Gene. When using a printer just put a piece of paper in the printer and you got a pattern to use on the wood. All my patterns I enlarge after that first picture but that first picture has to be sent to rapid resizer because my 4 in 1 printer hit the dirt and this one is a 3 in 1, not what I need, then it tells the printer to print out the size I typed in. 

  I will also say all brands will loose their ability to stay stuck in time. I only apply  enough for a day or two of sawing at a time.. 

   Also Hobby Lobby does have good prices on stuff coming from over seas but I needed a gallon of Elmers white glue for the jig saw puggles and their price was 25.95 where that same day Walmart was 11.95 for same gallon. About two months ago so still should be about the same. There is a reason we use Elmers white glue!!! Did I say exact same gallon. Also their spray stickums are higher than almost any others we checked on. When I was a kid I would drive all over town to save 2 cents a gallon while burning  an extra gallon while checking... I still am programmed the same . Sorry to get off on another subject but hey.

 

If the nozzles gets stopped  up on the spray cans, leave them on the can until you get ready to spray again whether it be tomorrow or next year then drop the nozzle in some lacquer thinner for a half hour or so then spray. If you store the nozzles off the can either in a drawer or in lacquer thinner the can will almost all the time be ruined or it will take lots of thinner to make it usable again.... Just believe me, don't do otherwise!

  To save time when making a few of any one thing, stack sawing  like 5 or 6 pieces of 1/8" BB or 3 or 4 1/4" pieces of BB it will make your blades last longer to put wax paper between each piece of wood then nail or screw them all together somewhere the blade won't hit metal... and remember if you drill holes for inside cuts to always sand the holes flat on the bottom so the board will lay flat on the table again.

  I used a #7 Olson reverse skip tooth blade on the outside cutting the pattern away from the waste then switched to a # 5 Olson reverse skip tooth blade the cut the carving pieces away from the body of the clock . Just a thinner blade which will be easier to make sharper turns easier. Either blade makes the wood shinny smooth and no need for any kind of sanding. Also if the holes are very small to use an ice pick on the bottom side to make it easier to find the hole when trying to stab the blade through it. The 5 is a hair thinner than the 7 so the gaps won't show so bad for the pieces will be against each other when said and done. All the brand of blades and  sizes I use will shine the wood.

I still don't understand why guys still trace a pattern on to wood with a pen or pencil. Especially when It took this many pieces to glue together to make one jewelry box. I printed all the patterns at the same sitting then after I had prepared enough wood for that many pieces glued enough for each days cutting. If I had have traced that many pieces with pen or pencil  I would have had no wood left after sanding the insides and the outsides flat and smooth.. As it was each line printed was the same for each piece of wood.  So it was up to me to follow the lines as close to being perfectly perfect so there would be no sanding so all the drawers which was also the glued up pieces from the body shown in the picture would be exact also.

  Also if I had not used the clear packing tape on the wood first it might have cost me an extra gallon of thinner to remove all the pieces of patterns. As it was all the wood comes out like nothing had ever been stuck to it.  After doing 4 clocks up in the mountains while on vacation I finally realized I needed dowels pins to line up the gluing process on each and every piece I put glue on. Pieces slip as in the gluing process shown in the rear of this picture.  Most of the time a very small fraction of an inch on each and every piece can make things not repairable for sale. After that I use 4 dowel pins on each side of each piece of wood.. Time consuming, you got that right!!! 

@Smallpatch When I was a kid I would drive all over town to save 2 cents a gallon while burning  an extra gallon while checking

 

As I figure it Jess, when you was a kid gas probably cost 10 cents/gal in Texas.  A fill up was likely 14-15 gal.  Therefore you spent 10 cents to save 30 cents.  Not bad for a kid... 

 

A seriously good write up Jess.  I for one really appreciate your taking the time to post tips and such like this.

Cal

Thanks Patch. 

21 hours ago, Smallpatch said:

There is nothing left on the wood if you first put clear packing tape on the wood. Nothing. Dave no body reads how I describe my steps. I put clear packing tape on the wood first, then spray, spray stickum, then attach the pattern on the top of the stickup.

Sorry Patch...as soon as I read this sentence, it jogged my memory about your use of packing tape.

I DO read and appreciate your descriptions.  Unfortunately my retention time expires rapidly.

Thanks for the explanation (again) and the pics of your "stikums." I've been using 3 of the ones shown so looks like I'm in good company.

I don't remember suggesting reversing the printer image. Not saying that I didn't.

But, that would only apply to letters or images where right and left matter. 

 

Dave I don't doubt if 3M ain't supplying all the other companies with the same stuff. It looks like, sprays like, holds like and taste like the 3M stuff only they are much higher than the rest...

  

Gene I guess when tracing using carbon  paper that would apply. Since started using the printer its all straight forward and I have forgotten what I use to do. And the forgetter is getting worse as each day goes by. The doctor told me to play lots of free cell on the computer. I ask if that would help. He said well it beats people sitting in front of a tv all day and never watching anything with a blank stare on their face.

  So I do play free cell a lot and it really helps for as soon as I see that game anywhere I can recognize it.