It is time to start planning to install a new kitchen floor.  I will be removing the old ¾” ply underlayment and two layers of vinyl sheet flooring.  I will still have the original ¾” ply subfloor which will not be removed.  I believe I want to install a new ½” ply subfloor over the existing subfloor and a new ¼” lauan underlayment.  The customer (my wife) has already purchased Armstrong Luxury Vinyl.

Questions: 

What is needed to install the ½” ply subfloor to the existing subfloor?  I know it is best to install it perpendicular to the existing subfloor.

What is needed to install the ¼” lauan underlayment to the ½”subfloor?  I assume I will install it perpendicular to the ½” subfloor?

Danl

Edited November 19, 20178 yr by Ron Dudelston
Added tags

When I did our kitchen, I used ring shank nails on the Lauan.

 

In our bathroom, I used 1" staples and shot them in.

 

The guys that put down the Vinyl in the kitchen uses a powder mixed with water to level out the nail head dimples. I didn't do that in the bathroom as I was using self stick squares. I did use a floor prep recommended by the tile maker.

Just a thought, would construction adhesive work? 

 I would screw the 1/2" down then staple the 1/4" to it.    Construction adhesive would be very permanent.    Take a 6" wide taping knife and wipe it across the surface of the luan.   You will easily hear if a staple or nail is too high.   Skim coat the luan to fill hammer dimples which may show through.   I don't think the 1/4" wide staples would show through but would skim coat them along with the seams.

 Offset the seams on the plywood layers.    Roly

 After thought:   When removing the multiple layers take a circular saw with an old blade set the depth to just cut through all the layers you want to remove but not the actual sub floor.   Cut into pieces that are easily handled.   You will encounter nails or screws when cutting.  If the vinyl is not glued  remove it first. 

Edited June 5, 20179 yr by Roly

Shooting staples for the underlay works well.  No hammer dimples to fill.  Be sure to sand all the seams even with a random orbit sander.  Underlay is sold in 4'X4' sheets with preferred nail pattern marked on them.

Are the kitchen cabinets on top of the existing 3/4"  ply you are taking up ?    You may need a toe kick saw if they are.  Roly

CAUTION ON STAPLES. I had an experience in a brand new house,recently, in the kitchen,dining room, laundry room, and 2 bathrooms, the staples worked their way up through the vinyl flooring in about 3 months. I succeeded in pulling them out and they were 1 1/2"-2" long smooth staples. They must have been between the joist because they pulled fairly easily, but they did leave some nasty looking spots  in the vinyl where the surface popped out.

 

Myself I would screw down the U/L, both layers, or ring shank nails. Smooth nails and staples will work out and squeak eventually. Screws are a lot easier to remove when replacing flooring too.

 

Herb

I've used Bostitch resin coated staples for underlayment. But, we laid tile over them. 

For the 1/2" screw it down with some glue and make sure to bury the screws.  Countersink if required.  Then as others have said ring shank or screw down the 1/4" luan and then fill with a suitable floor leveler the hammer dings or the screws dips and sand all edges flush then take at 12" taping knife and put it over the joint if you see air level it.

I believe Armstrong has their own similar requirements for the floor.  Best to find them on line and comply.

 

Edited June 5, 20179 yr by Michael Thuman
Incorrect typing.

2 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

I've used Bostitch resin coated staples for underlayment. But, we laid tile over them. 

I hope you mean Ceramic or Quarry tile,Gene, Vinyl tile are pretty much like sheet vinyl.

Herb

2 hours ago, Dadio said:

I hope you mean Ceramic or Quarry tile,Gene, Vinyl tile are pretty much like sheet vinyl.

Herb

Shoulda been more specific...ceramic tile. 

On 6/5/2017 at 9:34 AM, Roly said:

Are the kitchen cabinets on top of the existing 3/4"  ply you are taking up ?    You may need a toe kick saw if they are.  Roly

The kitchen will be gutted, so no problem with working around the cabinets.

 

The info on the internet from Armstrong is pretty much worthless.  Electrician comes 7/17/17.  I plan to start demolition on 7/10/17.  Thanks everyone for the advise.

Danl

Edited June 6, 20179 yr by Danl

2 hours ago, Roger Mark said:

Read on a blog that hardwood flooring materials are super durable.

Roger, first off, welcome to our forums. Just a heads up, I deleted the link you installed for "hardwood flooring" materials, we have had an influx of really irritating hardwood floorers trying to sell their products here in our community, and we basically banned any links to their websites, I know you were just showing us the flooring, but as a policy, links to hard wood flooring companies are not permitted per our spamming policy, thanks for being here Roger, and thanks for your understanding in advance.

Does anyone here really recommend hardwood flooring for a kitchen ? I've always felt that wood is a poor choice for the kitchen and bathroom because if the possibility of water damage in these areas.

I have seen some nasty warped oak  kitchen floors after a plumbing leak under the sink when the residents were not at home. The insurance paid for a new floor but took weeks to dry it out enough to lay it. and the inconvenience of living with a torn up kitchen must not have been fun.

On a high end home we built one time it had oak flooring throughout and in the kitchen the Architect spec-ed out drilling several 1" hole under sink cabinet to let any water leaks to run into the crawl space.

3 hours ago, It Was Al B said:

I've always felt that wood is a poor choice for the kitchen and bathroom because if the possibility of water damage in these areas. 

agreed...

My wife did not want wood.  She said she did not want the mess that would be created if we did have a water leak, so she selected Armstrong LVT.   Danl