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How it's made part 4

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Installation of the new stairs.    Wanted to do a time lapse video of this,but,  the painter I hired to apply the finish clear coat said he would be here this week, so I installed the stairs last week,and didn't worry about finding someone with a camcorder that would do time lapse, he calls me up and says the house he is working at now added a bunch of other stuff they want done, so it will be about a month before he gets here, oh well just me and the wife live here and shoes are not allowed in our house so no big deal. For those who have been keeping up with my project, here is some before, after, and doing the project, more pics to follow

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Edited by Ron Dudelston
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Keep them coming "Kenny"...can't leave us hanging out here like this:lol:...Just don't forget and go running down the stairs tonight:D

more please...

That looks pretty good ao far

Following!!

Thanks for bringing us along. We'll be waiting for your next step...pun intended.:D

Loving it.  Nice work.

If sleepwalking, be sure to put your shoes on!

sweet!

Sure looks like you have got a handle on that job. That sweeping bottom is going to add a lot to the looks and access for the stairs. How did you route the tread and riser mortises into the curved section?

Herb

They look great but for saftey I am asking some questions.

The stair stringers are how thick"  They appear to be 3/4" code is 1-1/2"  you may need a 3rd center stringer

Are the dado's in the stringer 3/4 deep or 3/8"?

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3 hours ago, Dadio said:

Sure looks like you have got a handle on that job. That sweeping bottom is going to add a lot to the looks and access for the stairs. How did you route the tread and riser mortises into the curved section?

Herb

will post pictures of the jig used to route them out in my next post,

 

1 hour ago, Michael Thuman said:

They look great but for saftey I am asking some questions.

The stair stringers are how thick"  They appear to be 3/4" code is 1-1/2"  you may need a 3rd center stringer

Are the dado's in the stringer 3/4 deep or 3/8"?

stringers are3/4" routes are 7/16" deep. As best I know there is no code related to thickness, if there is we have never been flagged on a job for it, (been doing it this way for 20 some years) and a 3rd center stringer is not needed, Will post pics of the underside of the stairs in my next post, and you will see how solidly it is built and why the center stringer is not needed.

Love the curved steps...nice...

6 hours ago, Kenny Tarmack said:

will post pictures of the jig used to route them out in my next post,

 

stringers are3/4" routes are 7/16" deep. As best I know there is no code related to thickness, if there is we have never been flagged on a job for it, (been doing it this way for 20 some years) and a 3rd center stringer is not needed, Will post pics of the underside of the stairs in my next post, and you will see how solidly it is built and why the center stringer is not needed.

Thanks I would encourage you to get these inspected before closing them up.  The local building inspector here flagged my basement stairs and I had to add a center stringer.

My stringers with 1 1/2 T and routed out like yours with shims to lock them in.  He said because it was 36" wide he wanted a center stringer.

 

 

Nice work!

Codes can vary by jurisdiction with a national minimum code being the baseline. But, local inspectors can add to that to meet the jurisdictional code. At first I was concerned about the center of the flight sagging in the middle side to side  until I considered the strength of the vertical risers. 

 

Last fall I reveresed the direction of the staircase to the lower level in our house to better utilize the floorplan downstairs and add a kitchen pantery upstairs. The staircase is built on 3 -2x12 sringers with 3/4" risers and 1 1/2 " thick treads of particle board and is "free floating, ie; only anchored at the top and bottom landing. This spring the risers and treads will be replaced with knotty pine of the same dimensions. I guess I'll need to post some pics... 

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