When I made other storage cabinets, I used inset doors and was never happy with the way they looked or operated. On this next project I have decided to use overlay doors but I don't know how to select the amount of overlay. I know I have to know this so I can purchase the correct hinges. Is there a rule of thumb depending on the width of the face frame and the door stiles and rails, or is it simply a matter of personal preference? Any help would be appreciated.

Edited December 8, 20178 yr by Ron Dudelston
tags added

This might help-

https://www.hardwaresource.com/hinge-resource-center/hinge-information/cabinet-door-inset-measurement-guide/

 

Somewhere I remember seeing something a little better but can't find it now

I reread what you posted and am wondering if you are using a full over-lay or a partial inset door. 

 

For full overlay, I shoot for about 1/2" overlay. For partial inset, it comes out around 1/4" overlay.

 

There may be a rule somewhere about this but I don't know it. Maybe @Stick486 can chime in here and provide a more definitive answer.

They will be full overlay. I think 1/2" would work well.

Lately, I've used the euro hinges. Really easy to install and lots of adjustments for alignment.

26 minutes ago, lew said:

Lately, I've used the euro hinges. Really easy to install and lots of adjustments for alignment.

+1 they are the cat's meow.

I was planing to use the euro hinges but I've never used them before. Any words of advice would be greatly appreciated. I've heard that a 1-3/8 bit will substitute for a 35 mm: true or false?

15 minutes ago, Texaswally said:

I was planing to use the euro hinges but I've never used them before. Any words of advice would be greatly appreciated. I've heard that a 1-3/8 bit will substitute for a 35 mm: true or false?

If I remember - true

 

I had never used them before I built a little cabinet to go under my drum sander and I used them in that application. I went with inset door and I was surprised how easy they were to install. You need to make sure your measurements are accurate or depending on the brand, get/build a jig to help with the layout of the holes (I have seen some jigs at Rockler)

That Rockler jig is as handy as pockets on a shirt. I've got one around here some place. If I can find it, it's yours. Lemme look. BRB

 

The typical "socket" hole is 35mm but double check with the manufacture to be certain. Here's a link to some great folks for buying hinges-and more- http://www.cshardware.com/

 

BTW 35mm = 1.37795"   1 3/8 is 1.375 I think it works.

Shucks, it's not to be found. Might've already given it away. Sorry.

It wasn't the Rockler one, anyway. It came from HD and the bit was included. 

IIRC, it was around $10 total.

I got a bad case of CRS, though.

Edited January 10, 20179 yr by Gene Howe

I like having a 1” overlap for overlay doors.  I have used the Salice concealed European hinge from Rockler and the 1-3/8” forstner bit works just fine.  My good friend Russ Boyd made me aware of the same hinge from The Hardware hut.  They sell them for less than half the price but do not have the 1” overlay size.  Danl

http://www.rockler.com/salicereg-excen-three-self-closing-face-frame-hinges

https://www.thehardwarehut.com/search-product-result.php?cat=426&mfr=246&collect=1080

35mm = 1-3/8"

 

i build frameless cabinets with full overlay doors.  so the doors cover the 3/4" wide sides.  that said, i always make the door a little narrower than the cabinet.

 

so if i have a 24" wide cabinet, i make the door 23-7/8" wide.  allows room for adjustment and creates space between adjoining doors.  a nice 1/8" shadow line.

 

looks like this if you do it half right.  all doors made just using the table saw.  no router bits needed!

it was a LOT of doors!!!

 

all different sized!!

2 minutes ago, DAB said:

all different sized!!

Well, that had to be fun!

2 hours ago, lew said:

Well, that had to be fun!

 

It took some time. 

 

So did making 44 drawers.