December 18, 20169 yr Just re-read an old article by Ian Kirby about building a torsion box. I'm thinking of making one for a miter saw stand that I want to build. Major question is "how to ensure that the result is flat, without warp or wind?" Of course, Ian says to just use a flat surface for the glue up. Hmm. Wonder where I'd find that? Or should I just go to ReStore and get a hollow-core door, rip it in half and insert some wood inserts in the cut line?
December 19, 20169 yr see if this will help muddy things up... make sure your add blockers are turned on... Duane's torsion box bench top build thread http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/70377-duanes-torsion-box-bench-top-build-thread.html Edited December 19, 20169 yr by Stick486
December 19, 20169 yr I like the hollow door core idea,but when I built my assembly table I had just watched the David Marks episode on torsion boxes. I was able to use winding sticks to get a flat surface.
December 19, 20169 yr Author 9 hours ago, John Hechel said: in my opinion the ply's of a hollow core door are too thin for use as a top. Just a miter saw extension table -- no hammering, chiseling, drilling, etc., Only needs to hold a piece of wood to be sawn.
December 19, 20169 yr Author 7 hours ago, Stick486 said: see if this will help muddy things up... make sure your add blockers are turned on... Duane's torsion box bench top build thread http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/70377-duanes-torsion-box-bench-top-build-thread.html 16 pages? Some guy named Stick seemed to be contributing to that thread. Not so sure that the grid needs to be glued and screwed together? Kirby just staples them on the joints to hold them until the adhesive is applied. Where are they going to go??
December 19, 20169 yr 12 minutes ago, kmealy said: Not so sure that the grid needs to be glued and screwed together? Kirby just staples them on the joints to hold them until the adhesive is applied. Where are they going to go?? abuse was in it's future... use a pinner...
December 19, 20169 yr Don't know what a torsion box is. I always thought knowing what to do with the wood was more important that learning the names of things. My solution for a flat surface was always using the top of the table saw when needing flat surfaces to start with. My dad would roll over in his grave if he was to hear the word re-purposing used in describing the use of used lumber and old palettes. I wonder if they have a different word when speaking of old worn out exotic lumber which I don't own any of.
December 19, 20169 yr Popular Post 1 hour ago, Smallpatch said: Don't know what a torsion box is. I always thought knowing what to do with the wood was more important that learning the names of things. My solution for a flat surface was always using the top of the table saw when needing flat surfaces to start with. My dad would roll over in his grave if he was to hear the word re-purposing used in describing the use of used lumber and old palettes. I wonder if they have a different word when speaking of old worn out exotic lumber which I don't own any of. Firewood.
December 19, 20169 yr Author Here is the article I read, but practically the same one was in an early issue of FWW. https://books.google.com/books?id=pfYDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA67&lpg=PA67&dq=torsion+box+ian+kirby&source=bl&ots=4CZtz8ivT6&sig=w1y1jv-fmH2exlzndUvcZjeJkUw&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiEzcyq8oDRAhWq3YMKHRXJAxEQ6AEIPzAI#v=onepage&q=torsion box ian kirby&f=false
December 20, 20169 yr My main work bench (13' long) is a pair of trimmed pocket doors, done about 6 years ago, still dead flat. Can't pound on the surface too hard without added protection. My assembly table is another pocket door set on sawhorses. It's been in use for at least a decade. After watching the video (thanks for linking it!), I decided to protect the bench tops from everyday use: I'm going to get some 1" rigid foam insulation and glue a hardboard top to it. Set that on the bench, and then the hardboard takes the beating; when thoroughly beaten, flip over and put another hardboard on the insulation. And/or, cover the old hardboard with a new layer: this work surface doesn't need to be dead flat. Something that struck me watching the video: why demolish the old table first when the problem was largely cosmetic dings on the top: if it's big enough, and still flat enough, setting the MDF on the old surface would seem to be a pretty good level/even surface for assembly of the torsion table.
December 20, 20169 yr 59 minutes ago, PeteM said: Something that struck me watching the video: why demolish the old table first when the problem was largely cosmetic dings on the top: if it's big enough, and still flat enough, setting the MDF on the old surface would seem to be a pretty good level/even surface for assembly of the torsion table. I wondered the same thing Pete although he did say his current version was 4x4 and new one was 4x6...but still seemed like a waste... Guess I've never seen Roy Underhill, Norm Abram or others mention use one these during assembly...probably missed those episodes I suppose the Amish, Quakers and other Early American furniture builders had their own versions... Closest I've ever come to something like this was for tool-room layout using a Granite surface plate or in a CMM Climate Controlled Room setting but that for for QC, QA & Engineering checks of machined parts to be replicated in the 10's of thousands... I just use hollow or solid core doors bought for $5-$10 at Restore...level on horses (if / when needed), check for flat using a level & feeler gauges...unless I use something different than a tape measure, I'm not really concerned if my projects align or layout +/-.001"...but I've suffered a few concussions too...
December 20, 20169 yr Have a desire to try building a torsion box assembly table for my shop. I watched the FWW video above and had a couple questions...... First, instead of cutting the inner blocks individually, can one cut the inner framing strips to the full length and then cut a dado/slot half way thru the boards where they intersect so they "saddle" one another to form the grid? Sure seems like if these board are all the same width and put together this way, the overall assembly would be much easier (and stronger). Second, if you have to take a block plane to knock down any high spots, are you really sure the surface is going to be dead flat? Maybe it's not enough to worry about. Anyway, all those individual pieces seems like an opportunity for error. Appreciate any words of wisdom to set me straight. Thx.
December 20, 20169 yr 2 minutes ago, Wil said: an one cut the inner framing strips to the full length and then cut a dado/slot half way thru the boards where they intersect so they "saddle" one another to form the grid yes... way stronger... it called a half lap joint... and see the link I gave Keith..
December 20, 20169 yr The one I have now is 52" by 52", and I did the webbing with the lap joints. Not for strength (don't know if it makes a difference or not) but for ease of assembly...you aren't working with 50 blocks trying to toe nail or whatever to get them in place.
December 20, 20169 yr Thanks Stick and Fred. Certainly reassuring to see my thoughts validated by others. This sure seems like a no-brainer approach to building this.
December 20, 20169 yr make sure your add blockers are turned on... Duane's torsion box bench top build thread http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/70377-duanes-torsion-box-bench-top-build-thread.html
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