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New digs are done....

Featured Replies

at least on the outside. My Amish crew worked 1/2 day last Saturday, then returned for a short day on Labor day (worked until 1:30), then yesterday for another short day to finish the building. Can't express how impressed I am with the skills of this crew. The youngest (whom I'm told was 18) did the entire roof himself, carrying the shingles up one bundle at a time. He also installed the OH doors, and they are spot on perfect. While that was going on the father and the oldest boy (I had picked up somewhere this was a family with no outside help other than the driver) finished the sheathing, siding, fascia, etc. Anyway, as it looks ready for me to do the inside. I need to do an interior partition to divide it into 2 spaces, and then start the wiring, insulating, and walls. That may have to wait a while, though the power should be installed in the next few weeks. I've having the panel installed (100 amps), then I'll do the balance. The small OH door is simply for me to get things into and out of the shop area, the larger one is 8' tall because 7' isn't quite high enough for my tractor when the ROPS is straight up position. The color differences you see in the 2 shots is lighting.

.doneSsm.jpgdoneEsm.JPGinsidesm.JPG

WOW! That is sure a awesome looking shop. Can't wait to see it on the inside when you are finished. I also can't believe how fast those guys are. They did a great job!

WOW 1.gif

How do you intend to do the interior walls???

why only a 100 AMP panel???

29 minutes ago, lew said:

OK, I am officially jealous!

Just goes without saying :lol:

Man, that was fast. Great looking shop. Color me green.

I have the same ? As Stick. Why only 100 amps?

Edited by Gene Howe

  • Author
2 hours ago, Stick486 said:

How do you intend to do the interior walls???

why only a 100 AMP panel???

Well, for one thing 100 amps is plenty, it's what i had in the last 2 shops and wasn't even close to being short on power. But more to the question, I started out trying to get a separate meter and 200 amp service, but the power company has gotten really hard to deal with on new service and don't want to add meters that won't have a minimal usage (which I was right on the border to meet). But another thing is the 100 amps will be a sub on the house which will have a backup generator, so the shop will still have heat the fridge that;s out there will still have power during outages. the walls will be drywall which is also what I've had in the past. Easy to repair, cheap to install, and I've never had a problem finding studs to hang things. That said, i may still have a section of slat wall going across some part of it.

I don't think a 100 amp panel is too small.    The only time it could be a issue is if you have electric heat and run a welder at the same time.   The cost if you also have to upgrade the house from say a 200 amp panel to a 320 amp or 400 amp panel  can be considerable.    However if this is a separate feed and meter just for the shop I would go 200 amp.    The other option if you need to increase the house panel size it may be practical to make the shop panel the 300-400 amp panel and make the house sub to it.    All it takes is money.    Roly

28 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis, Jr said:

. Easy to repair, cheap to install, and I've never had a problem finding studs to hang things.

 

Although you have not had a problem finding your studs, a trick to help locate your studs is to put a 1 1/2" or 1 1/4" fender washer on the stud down by the floor or at some consistent point along the wall. Really easy to find with the magnet stud finders. With the new sonic (or whatever they are) stud finders, this trick is mostly obsolete.

WOW Fred, That is awesome. Wide open with no support columns. Can't wait to see it up and running.

Can we just say AWESOME!!! Wow they were fast. I should have gotten them over here to help me.

 

100 amps should be fine, that is what i am running in my shop off the house panel. All my tools are 220 so the amp load is lower. I have never had a problem.

 

I love the size and the openness. 

 

Put me in the Jealous category also.

Sweet! A new, clean, blank canvas to work with! Keep the updates coming.

Fred,

 

I'm sure that Stick will chime in on this. We have had this discussion(s) in the past.

 

Consider mounting your electrical outlets externally on the walls, instead of running the wires and boxes inside of the walls.

 

"The best laid plans of mice and men oft times goes awry". This is especially true of shop layouts. Unless you are absolutely sure that none of your equipment will be moving or another being added this is an advantage. If you permanently mount the outlets in the walls, then you are committed. If you run the supply circuits externally with the wires in conduit, it is much easier to relocate or move an outlet that is not in the ideal location.

 

It appears that you have thought this out and planned very well, but I thought I would just make the observation.

 

Yes, I, too, am jealous. NICE SPACE!

Bill, I wish I'd known you when I built my shop. A second option is to leave the walls bare for three years til you know where the outlets (AND LIGHTING) shoulda been.

I did neither and I've kicked myself ever since.

Edited by Gene Howe

5 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

Bill, I wish I'd known you when I built my shop. A second option is to leave the walls bare for three years til you know where the outlets (AND LIGHTING) shoulda been.

I did neither and I've kicked myself ever since.

 

Don't give me the credit...that goes to Stick and his VOE. It just makes perfect sense.

 

Another mistake is mounting the outlets low on the wall, it isn't a house and your not trying to hide the outlets behind furniture. Mount them up so you don't have to bend over to plug or unplug something. Also, alternate the outlets on the wall on two separate breakers. If one goes then you can switch to the next one until you fix the problem.

Well, then. Stick's smarter than he looks. ;)

A good idea, anyway.

3 hours ago, schnewj said:

Fred,

 

I'm sure that Stick will chime in on this. We have had this discussion(s) in the past.

 

Consider mounting your electrical outlets externally on the walls, instead of running the wires and boxes inside of the walls.

 

"The best laid plans of mice and men oft times goes awry". This is especially true of shop layouts. Unless you are absolutely sure that none of your equipment will be moving or another being added this is an advantage. If you permanently mount the outlets in the walls, then you are committed. If you run the supply circuits externally with the wires in conduit, it is much easier to relocate or move an outlet that is not in the ideal location.

 

It appears that you have thought this out and planned very well, but I thought I would just make the observation.

 

Yes, I, too, am jealous. NICE SPACE!

you almost said it all...

 

use straight pipe and no offsets w/ stand off clamps for the pipe...

2'' deep 4''² boxes all the way... really pays dividends down the road....

 

Another nice trick. Place the breaker number on the outlet cover. If a circuit pops you can go directly to the breaker to reset. No fuss/muss or guessing. If the breaker isn't popped then you have just done 50% of your troubleshooting.

Another tip use different color outlets for different circuits.   That way you can easily plug in high current tools or shop  vacs on different circuits.  If I run a big router and a shop vac on the same circuit continuously for a while I can trip a breaker.   Roly

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