I'm having trouble with my tired, old eyes seeing some cut lines on patterns. I use a light-magnifier but when I'm cutting patterns like these from Steve Good, I have a lot of problems.

 

The black line patterns with the magnifier pop right out at me but these filled area patterns drive me nuts. I loose sight of the blade in the black.

Any suggestions on what I could try?

 

Could you scan the patterns into a computer program and then change the colors? I know some programs will allow you to select a color and then change the to another color.

 

Here's a link to a free program that I think might do it-

 

http://www.gimp.org/downloads/    Windows

 

http://www.gimp.org/macintosh/     Apple

I'll have to check that out. Thanks Lew!

Harry

If that don't work out for you try coloring the pattern with  bright colored high lighter like pink. That will make it easier to see the blade against that color.

Thanks Wayne. Next set I do I'll have to try that.

Harry,

I tried this in "Gimp". I never used the program but it only took a few minutes to figure it out.

 

 

Thanks Lew.

I'm going to have to sit down and learn how to use Gimp.

Thanks, guys, for helping Harry - just got to the thread - I agree with all of ya  

The other method is to have the black cartridge refilled with red ink. That is if you have a dedicated printer.

On 3/8/2015 at 1:16 PM, Harry Brink said:

I'm having trouble with my tired, old eyes seeing some cut lines on patterns. I use a light-magnifier but when I'm cutting patterns like these from Steve Good, I have a lot of problems.The black line patterns with the magnifier pop right out at me but these filled area patterns drive me nuts. I loose sight of the blade in the black.

Any suggestions on what I could try?

 

 

print in lower pixel count.. Black won't be so dense...

print in grey scale...

try different colors of paper..

print in slide format... letters will be white and the area around the letter be black...

try changing the color of your light...

• At the lower end of the scale, from 2000K to 3000K, the light produced is called “warm white” and ranges from orange to yellow-white in appearance.
• Color temperatures between 3100K and 4500K are referred to as “cool white” or “bright white.” Light bulbs (lamps) within this range will emit a more neutral white light and may even have a slightly blue tint.
• Above 4500K brings us into the “daylight” color temperature of light. Light bulbs (lamps) with color temperatures of 4500K and above will give off a blue-white light that mimics daylight.

 

 

 

Edited August 24, 201610 yr by Stick486

Great information, Stick.  Would not have thought that deep on most of it.  I'm old school computer guy and just bring the image into Paint Shop (or other image manipulator) and turn high level solid colors to light grey or any lighter color.  Greyscale is super provided the RED doesn't turn black.

 

Thanks again, guys

On 3/9/2015 at 9:11 AM, Harry Brink said:

Thanks Lew.

I'm going to have to sit down and learn how to use Gimp.

Gimp and Inkscape are two free ware program and it is fun to make patterns in these .I  use these a lot to make patterns and it looks a bit tough but once you start playing with it you will get it.

Best wishes Sir

I often use Irfanview (freebie) to change color to greyscale.   one click and save... 

 

http://www.irfanview.com/

I believe that Steve Good is now supplying his patterns (at least some of them) using red instead of black. I would check out his website to see which patterns are available, or contact him. He seems to be more then willing to accommodate people with old, tired eyes. If there is a particular pattern that you are interested in, I'm sure he can re-do the color scheme for you.

Try this link.

 

http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2016/08/red-line-scroll-saw-patterns.html

Thanks for the info! Since most of my patterns are from Steve I'll try this.

Something that may help your eyes feel more relaxed is some printers have coloring book setting. When getting ready to print click on

choices or anything similar in your settings. By using this mode it only prints the lines and doesn't flood your pattern with black. Besides saves a lot of ink in the process.

8 hours ago, oleglenn said:

Something that may help your eyes feel more relaxed is some printers have coloring book setting. When getting ready to print click on

choices or anything similar in your settings. By using this mode it only prints the lines and doesn't flood your pattern with black. Besides saves a lot of ink in the process.

Haven't been able to get much cutting done this winter. I took a fall on the ice and then without heat out there it was just TOO COLD ( 20* ). This week it's warming up some so I may be able to get back out there.

Harry I get all my letters and words I cut on the scroll saw off of Word Pad here on Microsoft.

If you enlarged your pattern a little would that help. I never realized all the letters are black when I print them out. I have started using the magnifier with the built in light and that really helps on the really small stuff.

   I try to keep the blade half on the black and half on the white area. I do not use a spiral blade for anything if that might help.

  What size blade and brand are you using???

Most of my projects I use a #3r or #5r Olson or F/D. I'll use a #7r when I cut out the toys because they're 1 to 1 1/2" thick.

The patterns I have had trouble with are the solid black ones. But I'm working on it. It's not too bad since I posted that question.

Now if I could get back out to the shop and make some saw dust.