Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

The Patriot Woodworker

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.
Supporting Our Service Members
We proudly stand with all United States service members in Operation Epic Fury and those deployed around the world. Your sacrifice, courage, and dedication are deeply respected and never forgotten.

Delta Unisaw

Featured Replies

I picked up the Unisaw on Saturday and then delivered my Ridgid to the person that purchased it.


 


ning-100-3812-48622-95.jpg?width=750


 


The Unisaw needed a little cleaning, but all of the mechanical parts work.


ning-100-3815-48622-58.jpg?width=750


 


ning-100-3814-48622-18.jpg?width=750As you can see the extension table is missing and the original base was damaged so they build a base out of wood. The cover on the side is gone and so is the dust collection port.


 


The top had several spots of rust and some type of film on it. It wasn't a lubricant.


 


The first thing was to start cleaning the top.


ning-100-3813-48622-30.jpg?width=750


 


So I got the extension wing on the left fairly clean but it would require a couple of more passes.


 


ning-100-3816-48622-57.jpg?width=750ning-100-3817-48622-71.jpg?width=750So after a couple of hours working on the top, it look a lot better. I don't guess I can get every discoloration out of it. I might go over one more time before I put the wax to it.


 


I think I am going to repaint the rails also as they have lost a lot of the black paint.


 


I did pick up a piece of white melamine do I just have to get it cut and put the extension back together.


 


I have got to run a new 220 plug in the shop. I didn't have one close to where this saw will need to plug in. It doesn't have the factory switch on it either and that is okay but I will probably order it.


 


I also need the tape that goes on the fence rails. I guess I can order that from Delta.


 


So any of you Unisaw owners got any good advice. I guess I can order the side cover and dust port unless someone knows where they can pick up one from a saw that is no longer working. I got a pretty good deal on this so I am okay with fixing it up. I just got to get busy, I have orders and now I don't have the saw ready to do any work. Guess what I will be doing next week.


 


 


 

Congrats John! Nice saw, any Uni is worth fixing up IMO. Yep, you can order the parts from Delta, or surf on over to Ebay, sometimes you will see parts over there too. Great going John!113.gif

Man, John.........I'm think'n you could make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. You just got that machine and that top already looks like a new top. Good go'n!!!!


From the photo it looks like the inside has a sloped dust slide. If it does, it is like mine. I do have the side panel, and there is an opening..........maybe 4"x 14" that I had to have a discharge connection built to suck out the saw dust. Mine is "ONLY" 20 yrs old. But I think both were built before dust collection became such a big thing.

  • Author

Gary, this one is probably that old. It does have the slopped dust slide. How can I tell how old it is? I was thinking I may have to make something for that opening.


 


I was really surprised the top cleaned up that good. When I picked it up and saw it I was thinking I may not be able to bring it back. I think I will give it one more going over then put the wax to it.

Nice saw John...question, how did you make the rust vanish? 


 


-Ace-

Mine has a metal, stamped panel that came with the saw. Delta or unisaw may have a web site that you can research the age of your saw. Maybe by typing in the serial number. ............or maybe just calling them, as a last ditch effort.

John Moody said,:,

Gary, this one is probably that old. It does have the slopped dust slide. How can I tell how old it is? I was thinking I may have to make something for that opening.

 

I was really surprised the top cleaned up that good. When I picked it up and saw it I was thinking I may not be able to bring it back. I think I will give it one more going over then put the wax to it.

  • Author

I uses some 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper and some penetrating oil and a ROS. After I got most of it off, I took some 400 grit wet/dry with an oil similar to WD-40 and went over it again. I then took a scotch brite pad with some oil and went back over it. Buffed it clean and that is what you have. The top is as smooth as can be.


Ace HoleInOne said:

Nice saw John...question, how did you make the rust vanish? 

 

-Ace-

  • Author

Gary I got the serial number and checked. It was built in March of '88. The model is a 34-801, but I haven't been able to determine if it is a version 1 or version 2. Do you have a picture of yours for the front and side you could post or send me?
Gary Heltemes said:


Mine has a metal, stamped panel that came with the saw. Delta or unisaw may have a web site that you can research the age of your saw. Maybe by typing in the serial number. ............or maybe just calling them, as a last ditch effort.

John Moody said,:,

Gary, this one is probably that old. It does have the slopped dust slide. How can I tell how old it is? I was thinking I may have to make something for that opening.

 

I was really surprised the top cleaned up that good. When I picked it up and saw it I was thinking I may not be able to bring it back. I think I will give it one more going over then put the wax to it.




Nice job on the top. A single edge razor blade can help alot with rust if need be. It takes time, but does a great job. John, if you need parts for the saw, maybe try making them yourself out of some sheet metal or even mdf. It costs you time, but I am sure the parts from delta will not be cheap if they even have them. Using the little magnets from  Lee Valley or someplace works great to hold the panels on. If I can help with anything, let me know. bob

John...........My morning is going to be busy, but I'll get a photo later this morning and try to post it after the noon hour.
I'll do my best to get a good photo, but my table extention and a cabinet really hide the right side of my saw, Oh ya. I bought my saw in 90-91.
John Moody said:

Gary I got the serial number and checked. It was built in March of '88. The model is a 34-801, but I haven't been able to determine if it is a version 1 or version 2. Do you have a picture of yours for the front and side you could post or send me?

Gary Heltemes said:

Mine has a metal, stamped panel that came with the saw. Delta or unisaw may have a web site that you can research the age of your saw. Maybe by typing in the serial number. ............or maybe just calling them, as a last ditch effort.


John Moody said,:,

Gary, this one is probably that old. It does have the slopped dust slide. How can I tell how old it is? I was thinking I may have to make something for that opening.

 

I was really surprised the top cleaned up that good. When I picked it up and saw it I was thinking I may not be able to bring it back. I think I will give it one more going over then put the wax to it.

  • Author

Bob, thanks and you are right, I have been searching the Internet and the parts I have found are not cheap. The motor cover is from 100.00 up so I may be fabricating that myself.


 


I appreciate your offer and I am sure I will be checking with you. If there are any sites that have parts you already know about that can save me a little time, I would appreciate having them.


Thanks


 


John


 


Bob Kloes said:


Nice job on the top. A single edge razor blade can help alot with rust if need be. It takes time, but does a great job. John, if you need parts for the saw, maybe try making them yourself out of some sheet metal or even mdf. It costs you time, but I am sure the parts from delta will not be cheap if they even have them. Using the little magnets from  Lee Valley or someplace works great to hold the panels on. If I can help with anything, let me know. bob

  • Author

Gary just if you can I would appreciate it. Seeing how someone else has done something just keeps the thought process going. If you can't, that if fine also.


 


John


 




Gary Heltemes said:


John...........My morning is going to be busy, but I'll get a photo later this morning and try to post it after the noon hour.
I'll do my best to get a good photo, but my table extention and a cabinet really hide the right side of my saw, Oh ya. I bought my saw in 90-91.

John..........here ya are. It's really the best I can do see'ns how I have it surrounded with benches etc. Hope this helps ya. You can see the motor cover and the galvanized box/cover I had built to direct sawdust to my collection hose..ning-dscf0207-48636-83.jpg?width=721

John Moody said:

Gary I got the serial number and checked. It was built in March of '88. The model is a 34-801, but I haven't been able to determine if it is a version 1 or version 2. Do you have a picture of yours for the front and side you could post or send me?

Gary Heltemes said:

Mine has a metal, stamped panel that came with the saw. Delta or unisaw may have a web site that you can research the age of your saw. Maybe by typing in the serial number. ............or maybe just calling them, as a last ditch effort.


John Moody said,:,

Gary, this one is probably that old. It does have the slopped dust slide. How can I tell how old it is? I was thinking I may have to make something for that opening.

 

I was really surprised the top cleaned up that good. When I picked it up and saw it I was thinking I may not be able to bring it back. I think I will give it one more going over then put the wax to it.

  • Author

Gary, thanks and yea, I see how you have it surrounded do it can't get away. I guess I will start on making a motor cover this weekend and see how it goes. Got a little wiring to do first and should have that finished tomorrow night.

John,


 


Man I wished the original plinth on your Unisaw was cast iron instead of sheet metal as I have an extra. I also have 2 extra Unisaw cabinets, but they pre-date the cabinet like yours and have the semi-ovular hole intended for the old cast iron motor cover in lieu of the later model "square cornered" opening as is on your saw. 


 


If you are going to have your Unisaw in an open area here is my humble suggestion for a down and dirty / quick to build motor cover that would also serve as a storage cabinet of sorts and although this "hillbilly engineered" add-on would not be original .........it could be as handy as a pocket on a shirt.


 


Here are my thoughts: design a square or rectangular 3/4" plywood box that obviously is a bit larger than than the motor cover opening that was wide enough to accept the protrusion of the motor, then 1" or so from the motor add a panel inside the box that would cover the motor and serve as a "false" or "recessed" back of sorts that would be used to hang saw blades / perhaps a dado set / wrenches / miter for saw / etc. then add a few inches to the width and hang a door on the "box / motor cover"........ I would use the same type plywood to construct a door and use hidden hinges on said outside cover or door. In other words a rectangular box with a recessed back to cover the motor and serve to hang the aforementioned items on that has a functional door. The box could be designed to replicate the original sheet metal cover even down to rounded corners if need be and given the use of internal hinges that were spring loaded a person finish the box cover out with primer and paint to match your Unisaw and to look at it from the outside it would look like a sheet metal box until you opened the door and wala a place to store most of the Unisaw accessories out of site in a dust free environment. I would probably go one more step in this design and vent the bottom of the motor cover / accessory "box" to get a bit of extra air to the motor. If this is clear as mud I can provide a drawing, but I think you can read between my disjointed thoughts to see what I am trying to convey. 


 


Then for dust collection you could open a port on the back side of the saw cabinet that was close to the floor of the inside of the cabinet for saw dust removal.


 


Again this bit of "hillbilly engineerin" would not be "stock" Delta, but I think would work to cover the motor, deaden the sound of the saw, create a handy storage area for your Unisaw accessories and other goodies for the saw or for the area that would be close to the saw.


 


Thanks ~ Dan 

  • Author

Dan, I love "hillbilly engineerin" I will see if I can make that work.


 


Thanks113.gif

  • 2 weeks later...

hey john, looks like it will make a good saw, i too picked up a used saw a number of years ago and since then i replaced the motor with a 4 hp one and just installed a 52" unifence. ps i believe that my saw was built in 47


 

  • Author

Paul, thanks. As you can see this one has the 52" fence. In another thread there is a picture with the extension table back on it. I still got to get the motor cover and get it connected to my dc. It runs very smooth. I think it has found a home.

  • 4 weeks later...

hey john hows the unisaw coming along


 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Recently Browsing 0

  • No registered users viewing this page.

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.