I need to make two doors to match these in the picture.

They are obviously raised panel. The distance from the rail to the inside edge of the panel is 1 1/4". Would these be easier to cut with the table saw or with a router bit?

 

They are not cove but straight with a small lip at the top.

 

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John Moody
John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

John, so these are not a true rail and stile frame construction with a floating raised panel?

 I have seen these cut out of MDF, is that what you have?

In that case, I think the router would be your best choise. I have seen profile cutters like these. Amanna is one I know of.

Steve, I was going to make the panel from MDF and make the stiles and rails from poplar.

 

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John Moody
John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

what you will need then are bits for the rail and stile cut, and a bit for the raised panel. Remember on the back of the panel you will need to cut a rabbit if you use 3/4" MDF otherwise the panel will stick out past the door frame to the front.

John Moody said:

Steve, I was going to make the panel from MDF and make the stiles and rails from poplar.

 

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John Moody

John Moody Woodworks

http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

John2..

Go over to WOOD, General Woodworking, and you will see my jig I made for doors like you want.

Larry

John , those look like a painted door. Your thoughts are right on. Use a 1/2 " mdf for the panel. I don't know what the door looks like on the back, but if it is flush, then like Steve said, cut a rabbet. It looks like a standard panel cutter for a 1.5" revel. bob

 

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Bob Kloes
www.bobkloes.com

Bob, you are right on. Now do you have a source for a standard panel cutting of 1.5" revel? I have looked at a few on the Internet and was really looking for recommendations.

 

Thanks

 

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John Moody
John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

Thanks Larry, how about posting a copy of your jig here for all to see.

 

Thanks

 

Larry Jenkins said:

John2..

Go over to WOOD, General Woodworking, and you will see my jig I made for doors like you want.

Larry

John

I did a set of doors similar to this, they were not mdf but just clean pine. Painted for finish and cut them on my table saw. The jig wasn't hard to make to support them and saddled the fence. I can look and see if I still have the drawings for it. Haven't tried it with mdf but should all work out the same. Like Steve mentioned about the rabbit.

 

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Wayne Mahler
God bless and protect our troops that serve so we can be free.

I use freud or any of the others. Shaper or router?  I use the 4 wing shaper cutters from freud, cause I do figured wood. The 3 wing also work fine. I have used a 3 wing router bit also. If this is going to be something standard for you, spend the money on a good cutter. If not, buy a cheapy, it will get you by.Carbide is necessary for mdf. Clear poplar or pine is good also. For my painted stuff, most times I use soft maple, cause it is cheap and plentiful here. No poplar here, we have aspen, which is also nice.bob

 

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Bob Kloes
www.bobkloes.com

The house I had over  in Degraff, Ohio, had some plywood doors, ugly ones.    So, I just got some #2 Pine, and made new ones, using Das Frankensaw..     Frame and panel job.  The raised panel was done one the saw, using a straddle jig.    Made the cut a little thick, and then made a shallow rabbet at the edge.   Primed and painted, installed with the "old" hardware.  Frames needed a rabbet around the inside edge. 

 

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'and may the road raise up to meet ye'

John, if your router will accept it, I would use a 1/2' shank bit for the panel cutter. And I would make multiple passes so not to burn your bit. I have used carbide bits from Lowes without any problems. I have a shaper so I use it for making raised panel.

John2 and others..  Here's the images for the panel jig and design drawing per your request. 

WOOD featured it a couple months ago.

Larry

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Larry

Nice job. Like the way you laid it out. Quite different from the one I built, mine saddled the fence and held the panel locked in. It depended on the tilt of the saw blade.

 

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Wayne Mahler
God bless and protect our troops that serve so we can be free.

Thanks Wayner..

Larry

ya LJ nice design on the sled

 

John I usually use my shaper with the necessary cutters to do the job, a router in a table will do it also. Thanks Paul

Since I don't have a Shaper, I just use the Tablesaw, with a slider on the fence.    I tilt the blade to about 10-15 degrees.    I also make the panels oversized, to allow for the milling.  I run each edge through, setting the depth of cut to just nick the "flat" part of the panel.   If I have to break off the waste, that's  fine, a swipe with the block plane cleans it up, and still leaves that "step" .    I make the panels oversize, because I will then lay the panels face down on the saw, and run a rabbet around the edges.    Not much of one, just enough to show.    If need be, I can also add a rabbet to the back side as well.   Well sanded, and then a clean up with a sharp piece of glass as a scraper.     Primed and painted. 

 

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'and may the road raise up to meet ye'

Larry, thanks for posting the jig and plans here. I know that will help a lot of us.

 

Great input from everyone. I know there are several different ways to make these and was hoping to get a lot of those posted here. In the past the only ones I have made were made on the router table.

 

Wayne and Steve, if you have pictures of the jig that slides over the fence, please post those if you can.

 

 

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John Moody
John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

Most if not all raised panels I've seen have a flat tongue (the part that goes into the sticking grove) before it raised portion of the profile. How to you accomplish that when use a table saw?