Well, Since the black walnut didn't work out because of too many splits, i decided that i would fall back to an earlier project that i wanted to do but forgot about.

This is a Cherry burl blank that i originally wanted to do months ago, i just happened to find the blank again. it's one that i showed some or all of you before.

it's spalted so there is no way I will sell it as a bowl for food consumption anyway and may not sel it anyhow as it will be the first real bowl.

in it's current form, it is 4 1/2 x1 1/2. it will likely be about 3 3/4 x 1+- when done depending on how badly i mangle it lol.

Here's hoping for a good turn!

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Charles
nicholls61@att.net
http://www.nichollswoodworks.com
This website is new so it doesn't have much to it yet but you are welcome to take a look

Beautiful piece of wood! I'll be following you on this one.

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Lew-
Time traveler. Purveyor of the world's finest custom rolling pins!

That should make a nice bowl Charles. We will be waiting.

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John Moody
John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

Looks like the end grain blew out on you Charles.  Easy to do. Was the blank green or dry?

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Ron Dudelston
Above and Beyond WoodWorks

Charles, you might want to look at adding this jig to your grinder as soon as you can. It will certainly help to maintain the angles on the gouges. It is not necessary to have this to sharpen, but it sure helps. Then you can add this attachment to make the fingernail and side grind consistent.

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John Moody
John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

No they are really the same thing Charles. The Vari-Grind 2 has a base that goes with it. The other one I was showing you will sit in the base that comes with the jig.

The Wolverine jig has the piece that is under the grinder wheel. The piece that is holding the gouge is the extra piece. It sits in the jig and you can rotate it around to get the fingernail grind or the side grind.

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John Moody
John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

Looks like you are really starting to get the hang of it now! 

Your discover about starting in the center and working to the outer edge is right on target. Some turners will actually drill a hole at the center of the workpiece. It serves a couple of purposes. First you can drill it to the exact depth of the bowl so it acts as a built in depth gauge. Second, it provides a relief point when moving the gouge to the center of the work.

I use the diamond card (http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2063639/24416/DMT-Diamond-Whetstone-Mini-Diamond-Sharpening-Stone-ExtraFine.aspx) set of 3, mini hones (http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2005910/18131/DiaSharp-25-Diamond-Offset-MiniHone-Kit.aspx) and honing cone (http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000232/441/Honing-Cone-With-Handle-4.aspx) for touch up. Even though these are good, they still can't replace the grinder for shaping and resharpening.

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Lew-
Time traveler. Purveyor of the world's finest custom rolling pins!

Charles,

It looks fantastic!  You are really getting the hang of it.

SQ

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Happiness is wood chips flying!

The small ones will work just fine

Charles Nicholls said:

Thanks guys thats just what I needed to know. I hope to have that jig next month but it's a bit more than I thought it was and definitely more than I can handle this month.

 I have some credit card size diamond files in 400 and 600 grit those should do the trick for touch ups right?

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Charles
nicholls61@att.net
http://www.nichollswoodworks.com
This website is new so it doesn't have much to it yet but you are welcome to take a look

Charles, you have got the hang of it now. That is looking so good. Some very nice grain going on in that bowl.

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John Moody
John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

How are you planning on turning the bowl back around to finish the inside? I may have missed a post, but I thought you were going to take the inside deeper.

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John Moody
John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

I usually use scrap pine for waste blocks, as you noted- maple is very hard- hey what ever we have, right?! Another trick for removing waste blocks is to glue them on with a piece of grocery bag sandwiched between the work piece and the waste block. After turning, you can use a sharp chisel to split off the waste block. This technique works well for smaller parts when there isn't a lot of pressure need to turn the parts. I wouldn't use it on large bowls or platters.

I like your reverse chucking posts. I made something like this out of plywood, bolts and beer/wine makers corks.

Charles Nicholls said:

After I got done with the front of the bowl on sanding, I wanted to start on the back side. In order to do that I have to take the waste block off. Caution Unless you really want the waste block to stick very well to the point that you have to cut the waste block off with the bowl chisel, or have a heavy bowl that you really need a sturdy waste block for, don't use maple for a waste block. This is just hot glue that i'm using to attach them and it sticks so well that i am having to use a bowl gouge to get it off

even after removing part of the glue, the waste block still held to the point of having to use a bowl gouge to cut it off.

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Charles
nicholls61@att.net
http://www.nichollswoodworks.com
This website is new so it doesn't have much to it yet but you are welcome to take a look

ICharles I believe you're on the road to sharper tools.  Are those the white aluminum oxide wheels?

 

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Ron Dudelston
Above and Beyond WoodWorks

Oh, I'm seriously jealous, now!!

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Lew-
Time traveler. Purveyor of the world's finest custom rolling pins!

Charles just make sure you don't overheat the tool when sharpening. Is the grinder a slow speed grinder?

You made a great choice!

Charles Nicholls said:

I tried and tried to not buy that thing, because I just couldn't see spending over $100 for a grinder when I'm barely making any money at all with my woodwork, but when I got the bowl gouges last month and realized they were not doing all that hey could be and my other tools seemed to get duller & duller, I felt I had no choice.

Lewis Kauffman said:

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Charles
nicholls61@att.net
http://www.nichollswoodworks.com
This website is new so it doesn't have much to it yet but you are welcome to take a look

Way to go Charles on the new grinder. I just love it when new tools show up.

Also nice job on the bowl. You are well on your way now. Looks great.

And wait, isn't that one of those board bowls, wonder where you got that?????

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John Moody
John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

This new bowl should be a beauty, Charles! Looks like you added some wax paper between the bowl and waste block for easier separation. When I use this method, I usually bring the tail stock up against the piece at least during the roughing stage, just in case of a catch which might break the paper/glue bond.

Charles Nicholls said:

Drum roll please!

And here it is all done (for now but I have to retreat it tomorrow and for the next 7 days)

The wood is still a bit thick on the bottom, but for a first time of making a bowl like thing, its not half bad. I'm a bit surprised that it isn't shiney at all but maybe it will be at some point. Now on to the next one

Gee I wonder where I got this from LOL (Wink) Stay tuned!

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Charles
nicholls61@att.net
http://www.nichollswoodworks.com
This website is new so it doesn't have much to it yet but you are welcome to take a look

BTW, That first bowl is a real winner! Much nicer than my first attempt which ended up being smoking chips for the grill.

Lewis Kauffman said:

This new bowl should be a beauty, Charles! Looks like you added some wax paper between the bowl and waste block for easier separation. When I use this method, I usually bring the tail stock up against the piece at least during the roughing stage, just in case of a catch which might break the paper/glue bond.

Charles Nicholls said:

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Lew-
Time traveler. Purveyor of the world's finest custom rolling pins!

Charles, one thing I did when I first started sharping my chisels to make sure I kept the angle the same was I took a permanent marker and colored in the entire bevel. I put the tool in the jig, and the bevel against the wheel and adjusted the jig until the bevel looked to be touching the wheel from top to bottom. I would then jog the switch to get the wheel to turn and touch the bevel against it. It would remove the black marker and I could see if I was consistent from top to bottom of the bevel. If it wasn't then I moved in or out to the it correct and repeated the above process. Once I had the entire bevel against the wheel I would then turn on the grinder and sharpen the chisel keeping it moving and not pressing against the wheel. You don't want to leave it in one spot and get the tool hot and discolor the metal. Since you don't have the jig you can do pretty much the same thing using the rest that is in front of the wheel. Lay the chisel on the rest with the bevel against the wheel and adjust the tilt until the entire bevel is against the wheel. Use the permanent marker, it really helps to see what you are doing. Also run the grinder on the slowest speed which is probably around 1750 rpms.

I hope that helps.

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John Moody
John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com