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Cooper-ish something new

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I need three 10" pedestals for my 3 three-way valves for my brewery. So I am making these which are open in the back for access.

 

The slotted end is the bottom where apiece of 3/4" (0 .730" really) ply will be fixed to strengthen them and mount the pedestal. I'm going to cut the top ends at a bias so the valves incline toward the operator. The taller will got in back the shorter in the front.

 

This is cheap oak ply left over from the shelves I made.

 

I have strips of elm that I'm going to use over the miter joints to soften them and eliminate the chippy splintery edges.

 

 

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ning-imag0332-18707-86.jpg?width=750

 

  • Author

Pix of the clamp? Naaah. There's so nothing to it.

Lay a couple strips of tape with the sticky side up in parallel on a flat surface with something against which to register the parts to be glued ( I used my TS fence). I also use bits of tape on the ends to hold my tape strips in place.

Lay the staves edge to edge along the tape strips press firmly apply glue to the surfaces to be joined and then while immobilizing one end of the glue up roll the other up using the tape to grab and VIOLA that's all there is to it.

hockey stick's Bells, trying to install DROID companion or other apps on my DNA is more of a challenge

That's pretty cool Cliff, I did not know you get that much clamping power from tape, but it makes sense, as long as the staves are nice and straight, by rolling the staves in place and working against each other with the tape holding it all, I could see where the process creates its own clamping pressure, did that make sense? Great job sir, thanks for sharing?

Those are cool looking Cliff. Show us pics of the brewery when your done.

Tape works very well when the joints are tight. Sometimes people over tighten clamps which squeezes out the glue from the joint which makes for a weak bond. Segmenters use tape for clamping rings to build up vessels but the joints have to be tight fitting. This also works for picture frames, mitered door panels etc etc.

 

 

Cliff, what was the math you used for this?

 

Staves = a

 

 

360/a = y

 

 

y/2

 

 

right?

 

  • Author

Math? We don't need no stinkin' maths! I use Turbo Cad Pro 16.1 platinum.

 

 

 

Cliff, I think the math would be quicker. LOL :)

Those are pretty cool, Cliff. Open sided? Your right, Who needs math? Arithmetic works.

 

Educated guess at the bevel angle and glue 'em together.

 

Only surveyors and engineers use math. :-) (and a lot less trial and error!)

 

  • Author

Oh, you don't know how the premium CAD packages work.

There's no guesswork. No estimating. I tell the thing how many increments I want the diameter split into and it just does it to within maybe 15 or 20 decimal places.The thing can can generate stairs, threads, you name it with only a little bit of necessary information. I think there are genius dwarfs inside my 'puter or something.

Anyway there's zero trial and error. With this software you can build things in all three dimensions make them solid and test them on the 'puter for fit and there's even an animation add-on to see how they'll work out when the gears and such start turning.

Originally this was to be closed like a drum, but I decided to leave the back open so I could access the tubing and connections that are going to go inside.

Cliff, can you elaborate on the type of cad your running? And any add ons you have to get to have the woodworking calcs and drawings in there. Thanks!

  • Author
Turbocad Pro 16.1 platinum ( I think they have issued Ver 19 now)

you can get add-ons that are designed for cutlists woodworking and such (http://www.turbocad.com/TurboCAD/TurboCADWindows/Plugins/FurnitureMakerv10/tabid/138/Default.aspx ) but there's no need for that sort of thing. The package is a complete 2 & 3-D wireframe & solids engineering software all by itself.

The things about expensive engineering packages are the price tag and the learning curve. They are very complicated with a vast number of design variables that tend to leave the uninitiated dizzy and often frustrated. The price can range from 2 to 5 grand and even more for some.

What I did was to get the trial versions of a couple of engineering packages, I'd already had decades of running CADKEY full time for my vocation as an engineer. But CADKEY ran on DOS legacy systems,  not on modern systems.

The transition between CAD software can be worse than trying to learn from scratch because of all the crud you gotta unlearn.

Anyway you can get the $1500 package for very cheap if you search around

  • 3 years later...

Brought another great project up from the archives! Great job Cliff!

Still wating on installed pics Cliff

1 hour ago, Gene Howe said:

Still wating on installed pics Cliff

:lol: Cliff is very diligent in his work!

4 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

Still wating on installed pics Cliff

You have a lot of patience.

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