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Showing results for tags 'risers'.
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Got a tip from Woodsmith yesterday, but it's an embedded video, so I can't share it here. They take scrap plywood, about 2" wide and cut some plate joiner (biscuit) slots. Glue in a biscuit (will stick out about half) and use like a painter pyramid to raise your work off the table for finishing or staining. He made some with 1 biscuit each that you can put wherever and some with a row of three for things like doors and shelves. If you can't envision this, I'll post some pix after I have made some.
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To answer a few questions that have been asked to me in the past, yes I design and build stairs for a living. The jig for Bending curved stringers was not made specifically for my stairs, it is adjustable for any size radius up to 10' and has been used for 100's of stairs. Here is a picture of the jig used for routing out the stringers and a close up of how the treads and risers get wedged into them, the router bit is called a stair bit, basically a dove tail bit.The jig is adjustable by loosening to two bolts shown with the pencils sticking up, it needs to be adjusted for each stair, do to the different run and rise. A picture of the under side of my stairs, a small bead of glue is applied to the bottom of the riser, the riser is then stapled the the back side of the tread then wedged. The treads get put in and wedged first, then the risers. Glue blocks are then applied to top of the riser, and the under side of the tread. Think about this, in order for the tread to bend, 8" of riser under the tread must bend, and 8"of riser over the tread must bend, not going to happen, that's the reason a center stringer is not needed. I'm currently setting the newel and putting in the curved rail, more episodes to follow.also a pic of the jig used for cutting the wedges, the board is flipped end for end after each cut.
