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This will likely be the final post for the mission style bed but hopefully more posts will follow for the mission style chest-of-drawers; all apart of the mission style bedroom set. The bed was put into the spare bedroom yesterday alongside the mission style nightstand. Thanks for looking. Danl Posting log for the Mission style Bedroom set journey 1. Help me with my lumber hauling Feb. 15, 2022 2. White oak is here Feb. 28, 2023 3. Moxon vise May 15, 2022 4. TS - tenoning jig May 29, 2023 5. Double tenons June 5, 2022 6. Mission Bedroom set – making progress July 23, 2022 7. Mission Bedroom set – making progress – take 2 Sept. 18, 2022 8. Inlay lines & dots Sept. 30, 2022 9. Mission Bedroom set – Nightstand door Oct. 9, 2022 10. Table saw made dovetail joinery for a drawer Nov. 13, 2022 11. Mission Bedroom set – Nightstand is complete Dec. 23, 2022 12. Mission style bed – prototype March 7, 2023 13. Mission style bed – production -1 May 23, 2023 14. Mission style bed – production – 2 June 3, 2023 15. Mission style bed – production – 3 June 15, 2023 16. Mission style bed – production – 4 June 21, 2023 17. Mission style bed – production – 5 July 22, 2023 18. Mission style bed – production – final Aug. 13, 2023
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A few more progress pics of the Mission style bed build. Danl I do not have a pic of the side-rail cleat before glue-up to the side rail. This is a pic of the final assembly of the side rail with the cleat being attached. I made a simple jig to help make the cleat dove-tail. The dove-tail will accept the bed slats. The cleat is being held in my Moxon vise. I removed most of the material with the table saw and then used a router with a trim bit. The temporary tenons in the side of the rails will aid with the spray finishing. The rail slats are made from poplar wood. Sample board showing the progression of the finishing process. Raw QSWO, one coat of Transtint medium brown in DA, then sprayed with 1-1/2# seal coat, then one coat of General Finishes Antique Walnut, then sprayed with 1-1/2# seal coat, then three oats of Sherwin Williams Sher-wood Kem Aqua plus (WB lacquer). I spray in my garage and the weather is hot. Cure time is in the kitchen. Now time to assemble the footboard. The first dry-run took 1 hour by myself. My wife and I were able to get the spindles glued in 10 min and final glue-up in 1/2 hour. I used Titebond hide glue for the adhesive. The two pine strips aided in holding the spindles in location while flipping the top rail and strips 90-deg and then positioning the lower rail. The footboard had 68 joints. The fit-up of the spindles to the rails were fairly tight before adding the glue. The pine strip closes to the lower rail was made 1/64"-1/32" thinner than the gap measurement to aid in the assembly. All of the spindle were numbered and had a reference mark to assure clocking orientation to get the "pretty side" on the correct side. Numerous glue aids were made. Most were painted red. The next day I glued the headboard assembly. It is similar to the footboard except with the addition of a 3rd rail and longer legs. To aid in the assy, I made the tenons on the lower rail 1/4" shorter than the upper and mid rail. I also made the tenons on the middle spindle, or center slat, 1/4" longer, top and bottom, than the other spindles for both the footboard and headboard. Now time to add felt pads to the bottom of all the legs. I still have to spray finish to the top cap of the footboard and headboard, spray finish to the side rails, and spray shellac on the bed slats. All of this before final assembly. I did trial install the side rails to the footboard and headboard. Pics will be forthcoming. Thanks for looking. Danl
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A few more progress pics of the Mission style bed build. Danl Qty (60) 7/8" x 7/8" spindles with 1/2" x 5/8" x 5/8" tenons, both ends. 1/8" x 1/8" chamfers routered on the bottoms of the legs. Headboard dry-fitted. The 1st time I tried the dry-fit it took 1 hr. This time it took 10 min. It should be adequate time with the Titebond hide glue. Headboard, footboard and side-rails dry fitted with the slip tenon also not glued yet. Epoxied the weld nut to the bottom of the slip tenon Glued the slip tenon into the mortise and drill hole for peg (belt and suspender approach). The peg will be hidden when the headboard and footboards are assembled. Used the cut-off to help make a gluing caul. I attached cork the side that touches the corbel. The corbel is splined to the leg. Getting ready to apply finish. I will be finishing most parts separately. The finish schedule is (1) coat dye, seal coat, (1) coat stain, seal coat, and then 2-3 coats of WB lacquer. Thanks for looking. Danl
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So the next thing on the to-do list for the wife is a new bed. This one has a number of requirements. It needs to be simple, sturdy, modern, with clean lines, has to be tall enough to sweep and mop under, with a big headboard and no footboard. If necessary, it should be able to be disassembled and moved. After a ridiculous number of designs I finally have one that has been approved and construction has begun. The splines at the end of the rails were the impetus for my recent bandsaw maintenance and upgrades.
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A few more progress pics of the Mission style bed build. Danl I added a profile to the footboard lower rail, similar to the design feature on the night stand. Clamped a router jig to the side-rail for the 5/8" x 4-1/2" x 7/8" deep mortise which goes into the end of the side rail. Using a router guide bushing and a spiral 1/2" up-cut router bit. Clamped the router jig for the mounting hardware access 'T-slot Clamped the router jig to router the mortice for the T-slot cover plate. Added identification marking to the side-rail. Added the identification markings to the legs. I added masking tap to the TS fence to allow me to remove 0.004" from the slip tenon material to allow for a nice fit. Temporary installed the slip tenons into their respect leg mortice after holes were drilled for the attachment bolt and hidden encapsulated nut. Thanks for looking. Danl
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A few more pics of the Mission style bed build. Danl When I sawed the Head and Foot board rail checks, I used my TS tenoning jig. The boards cleared the ceiling by ½.” I used my TS with a flat bottom blade to make the tenon shoulders. I decided to have two tenons for the wider rails instead on one. I used a jig saw and a chisel. Trial dry fit. I made (4) corbels and used a routing template to help clean-up the rounded profile. I will use splines to help attach the corbels to the bed legs. The bed spindle are located by using spindle strips. The strips were match made using a dado stack on the TS. A few more dry fit pics. The footboard was done the same processes.
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Early March I shared with you a prototype of a leg assembly for a Mission style bed. Much progress has been made. The design for the bed intentionally has many of the same dimensions between the headboard and the footboard. I used a router to make all my mortises. The 1/2” leg-to-headboard and footboard rail mortises were made with the aid of my mortising jig and the 5/8”and 1-1/4” mortises required new jigs to allow me to use a router bushing. I used the mortising jig clamping surface and clamps to hold the legs when the mortises were routed. . When I sawed the HB & FB rail checks, I used my TS tenoning jig. The boards cleared the ceiling by ½.” More pics to show in the next post. Danl
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I am making a Mission style bed, from quartered sawn white oak, for my wife. The design was inspired by Tom McLaughlin, Jeremy Zietz, Kevin Rodel, Jeff Miller, Fine Woodworking magazine, WOOD magazine, and Woodsmith magazine. I hope it is not a lesson in making expensive scrap. I finished the matching nightstand a few months back. You can see it here. This design allows for a queen size box spring and mattress and will have the same veneer and mother-of-pearl inlay as the nightstand. To help me with the joinery, I made a full-size prototype of one leg and its interfaces. The design uses grade-8 bolts and weld nuts to attach the side-rails to the legs. I incorporated concentric mortises and a slip tenon so the bolts would not be visible from the front. The tenon will be glued into the leg. The side-rail to leg appears to be a little complicated, but with a few shop made jigs it all should fit together. The leg double mortise requires three jigs. The 1st jig is used to route the 5/8” mortise for the slip tenon. The 2nd small indexing jig positions into the 5/8” mortise and then the 3rd jig is positioned over top the small jig. The 3nd jig is clamped secure and then the 2nd jig is removed. The 3rd jig is used to route the 1-1/4” mortise, which will accept the side-rail. The bolt & washer T-slot mortise and the cover plate mortise are routed using separate jigs. These two jig are located about the rail center line and the T-slot jig has a locator on the back side to assure the longitudinal position. The mortises routed in the end of the side-rails uses the 1st jig with a ½” thick shim. I plan to use heavy duty furniture levelers in the bottom of each leg to assist with any unevenness in the bedroom floor. Handling and correctly positioning the long and heavy lumber will be a challenge for me in my small basement shop. Thanks for looking. Danl
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I was able to complete a project. My wife, during one of early morning walks, acquired pieces to a toddler bed. They did not fit our home's baby bed until I cut out approx. 5" in length and a few other modifications. I had to make one trip to the hardware store and purchase shorter M6 bolts. My grand daughter will be 4 yrs. old in a 1-1/2 wks. I'm sure she will enjoy the modification. Pictures of was and now. Danl
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Workbench Magazine September-October 1967 Contemporary Bedroom Set
John Morris posted a file in Furnishings
Version 1.0.0
29 downloads
This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use. -
(Furnishings)Workbench Magazine September-October 1967 Contemporary Bedroom Set
John Morris posted a topic in Plans and Software
View File Workbench Magazine September-October 1967 Contemporary Bedroom Set Submitter John Morris Submitted 07/05/2021 Category Furnishings -
Have to start with a glue up . Did not think I could find 6 x 6 dry pine so here we go with 3 pieces of 2 x 6. Tried to get the knots toward the surface outer edges as these would be turned off. Remember you can never have too many clamps After squaring the blanks on table saw we will need a centered hole to assemble the two parts of the post as this lathe is not long enough to turn as one piece. Having that hole creates a stabilization problem for turning which is solved by using a cone center in the tailstock. The left picture is the fluting jig cutting the upper post . The right picture shows a closer look at the the jig cutting the post. These are the finished post parts with fluting done on one. Right picture shows the connection for the parts of the post. This round turning and finial go on top of the headboard and footboard. This shows the incomplete mortise and tenon to join the posts to foot and head boards. The raised panels are installed and at this point are prestained. The complete project. Not exact but a close similarity to a bed we lost when our house was flooded over 30 years ago.
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My son wants me to make a train bed for the grandson. Now what?? Anybody got some ideas or plans. I got til after the holidays to get it done ........ once I figure out what IT is.
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Was down at my Daughter's place for Turkey (burp) Day. Brought the better camera..at least it is better than the phone's I'm standing out in the hallway, to get this one. This is where the six yr old climbs into bed. 2x6s are about a foot apart...not a whole lot of room in there... Details of the corner posts, with the joinery, such as it is. The two lag screws hold the bed rail assembly in place. They have a sheet wrapped around the rail. There are a pair of pallets lagged into the rails, and that is what the box spring and mattress rest on. There is a "keeper rail" to keep the grandBRAT from rolling out of the bed. Rail is screwed in place, and he can grab onto it to help him get into bed.. Left the other end of the rail a bit long, so they can hang items on it. His older brother simply rolled his bed under the Loft bed. There just wasn't enough room in here for two seperate beds. Maybe $80 for materials? Just some Menards Pine boards....Lowes wanted way too much for their boards...
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View File Workbench Magazine Mar-Apr 1965 Contemporary Bed This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use. This scan is of a contemporary bed, I love these modern designs, the 50's and 60's highlighted much of the modernism furnishings that are popular today. These old Workbench Magazine's were fairly light on the detail, but with some prior knowledge and experience you can use this plan as a great jumping off point to build this contemporary bed. Enjoy! Submitter John Morris Submitted 11/28/2015 Category Furnishings
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Version 1.0.0
25 downloads
This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use. This scan is of a contemporary bed, I love these modern designs, the 50's and 60's highlighted much of the modernism furnishings that are popular today. These old Workbench Magazine's were fairly light on the detail, but with some prior knowledge and experience you can use this plan as a great jumping off point to build this contemporary bed. Enjoy!
