Search the Community
Showing results for tags '3 degree taper end mill'.
Found 1 result
-
The first job I had after college was for a furniture company in St. Louis that specialized in metal framed residential furniture. For many of their table designs they used thin walled steel pipe, usually chrome or brass plated. 3/8" od or 1/4" od pipe, swedged ends. As the ends were swedged they would trap threaded hex nuts in the end. The small pipes were stretchers for table frames into larger diameter pipe/tube as the legs. They could die-punch precision holes in the leg sides a hair smaller in diameter than the stretcher tubes. On the opposite side of the legs a smaller hole for the shaft of a machine screw was punched, and pressed in to create a countersink for the flat head screws. As you screwed through the leg into the stretcher end the taper would draw tight and the stretcher square to the leg. A very tight joint, no welding required. Could be assembled by customers with an included screw driver. This is, in effect, a wood version using dowels. 3/8" dowel stretcher into a 1" dowel leg. Test done using some dowel scraps. A very snug intersection of the dowels. I used a pocket hole screw. Pre-drilled the end of the small dowel for the screw threads. A wood plug could cover the screw head. The small dowel wedges in tight, and the screw draws it even tighter, roughly another 1/32" or so. Being nearly 1/2" into the 1" dowel the small dowel could never split from the screw. 3 degree tapered end mill. Strategy could easily scale up for larger dowels. Not a challenge to figure out the toolpath vectors needed. The 3 degree end mill has a 1/8"d tip and a little more than 1" of cut length. The company I worked for was James David Inc. Google may have images of the furniture they made. I don't think they are still in business. 4D
- 46 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- cnc cut joinery
- dowel frames
- (and 1 more)
