Ok guys and gals here is what I'm looking to do and I'm looking for ideas. I am cutting out the lid for a box that is a fretwork Heart. I want to take this project to the next level and do something different. I'm wanting to fill all the cutouts with a redish or pink material. Sorta like a leaded glass effect. My first thought was acrylic resin but I don't really want to fool around with resin plus the resin will shrink after cured and will pop out so I don't think that's an option.

The cut out area will have a thin backer under the lid. One idea is to pack all the voids with embossing powder or a powdered material and then flood the powder once packed with CA glue.

I've used embossing powder to fill voids on ink pens but those are usually small voids or bands. I've thought of stone dust but that can be very expensive considering the size of the voids around the perimeter of the heart. The lid thickness is 3/8". (see pic)

The lid is walnut and after the material has dried then I will sand the lid so the wood has no overflow and then apply a wipe on poly as long as the poly doesn't react to the CA glue.

  

---

www.thepatriotwoodworker.com Proud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops

Could you tint clear epoxy?

---

Lew Kauffman-
Wood Turners Forum Host

Time traveler. Purveyor of the world's finest custom rolling pins!

I've used clear epoxy and brass shavings from a key making machine. Came out ok but that would be a whole lot to do.

I know whatever you use, it'll come out great.

---

Harry Brink
Bulldog Woodworking
Montana

Mike

What about using a piece of tinted plexiglass across the backside of the lid. I have done this and it looked good. But I also routed the back out before I started the scrolling. In this case, maybe you could deepen the outer ring of the lid to offset the thickness of the plexiglass. You would use cna glue to attach it to the backside of the wood. Just a thought trying to keep it simple. Love the design, where did you get it at?

---

Wayne Mahler
God bless and protect our troops that serve so we can be free.

Thanks Lewis & Harry. I would but resins tend to shrink after cured and I don't want them to pop out at a later date.

---

www.thepatriotwoodworker.com Proud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops

Thanks Wayne! I thought of that but I'm looking for a stained glass effect.

The pattern is a modified pattern I got from the February issue of Creative Woodworks & Crafts magazine. The pattern is for a plaque. I shrunk it down a little to fit the stock I had on hand and it will be the lid for an oval box.

Wayne Mahler said:

Mike

What about using a piece of tinted plexiglass across the backside of the lid. I have done this and it looked good. But I also routed the back out before I started the scrolling. In this case, maybe you could deepen the outer ring of the lid to offset the thickness of the plexiglass. You would use cna glue to attach it to the backside of the wood. Just a thought trying to keep it simple. Love the design, where did you get it at?

---

Wayne Mahler
God bless and protect our troops that serve so we can be free.

Mike - about the only thing I can think of at this stage is a reverse cut in plexiglass.  You can then paint the backside of the glass different colors.  This method is going to be a huge pain in the dust because of the small cutouts you have.

You certainly come up with some good ones, sire.

---

Fred
aka Pop's Shop
www.pops-shop.com
'Soooooo many patterns - sooooo little time'
Scroll Saw Forum Host

Mike,

How about a mirror behind it?

 

Larry

Old Woodworking Machinery Forum Host

Steve Good has posted some tutorials about using Inlace. I've never used it myself though.

http://www.inlaceonline.com/

---

Greg
Site host

http://www.thesawdustfactoryga.com/

Thanks for the idea Greg. I hadn't thought about Inlace so I checked it out and I will have to try that on another project but while I was looking at the tutorials Steve provided, I saw his tutorial on using Polymere clay to fill in scroll fret work. After further research I found that Polymere clay is actually a fairly quick medium to work with. After conditioning the clay you push it into the voids then cure it in the oven at 275 deg F for 15 minutes. Remove it from the oven and allow to cool and then sand the clay flush to the woods surface and apply finish. I'll post pics when it's completed. Thanks again Greg for giving me the direction.

One question I do have is that Steve uses lemon oil on all his scroll work. Have any of you guys tried this and what are your opinions? 

Greg Aksdal said:

Steve Good has posted some tutorials about using Inlace. I've never used it myself though.

http://www.inlaceonline.com/

---

Greg
Site host

http://www.thesawdustfactoryga.com/

Mike, I have used Fimo clay on some things in the past. On something like your working on now, I think it will be tough to get it packed in there good. It will shrink some, also it would be a big help to have a backer behind it. On the projects I've used it on, I've just used some Deft spray. As far as lemon oil, never have used it. 

Also you should be able to find the clay at Hobby Lobby or Michael's craft stores.

---

Greg
Site host

http://www.thesawdustfactoryga.com/

Thanks Greg. I picked up some clay at Michael's yesterday. I do have a backer glued to the fret work so that isn't a problem.

After further reading on various blogs I did find one that discusses the use of polymere clay with wood. The shrinkage usually comes into play when the wood isn't completely dry and as the wood is heated it will shrink as moisture is cooked out and it causes separation of the two materials. By pre-baking the wood at 225 deg any moisture is removed. The walnut I am using has been sitting in my shop for over a year so it's pretty dry but I will pre-bake it just to be safe.

Another tip I found is to pre treat (after drying) an application of liquid clay provides a bonding agent between the clay and the wood then press the clay into the voids and bake.

Another tip is to over fill the voids and after curing sand the clay level with the wood which removes the shrinkage factor in it's thickness. 

Greg Aksdal said:

Mike, I have used Fimo clay on some things in the past. On something like your working on now, I think it will be tough to get it packed in there good. It will shrink some, also it would be a big help to have a backer behind it. On the projects I've used it on, I've just used some Deft spray. As far as lemon oil, never have used it. 

Also you should be able to find the clay at Hobby Lobby or Michael's craft stores.

---

Greg
Site host

http://www.thesawdustfactoryga.com/

I'll let you in on a little secret of mine.  Go to art store and get colored pigment for acrylic color. Not the acrylic paint, but the coloring for it.

Then mix it with the fine bondo (body filler for cars) and put it in the holes.

Of course you'll need to put a peice of wax paper on the back and a stiff board to back it up.

It also helps to spray the front with a polyurethane to seal the front grain from getting the colorant in the grain.

Then you can sand the front, peel off the back and have your peice.

I know, clear as mud right? message me if you need further help.

Thanks Dragon for the great idea however I went with polymer clay and it worked very well and was easy to apply. I may have to try your bondo tip on another project. 

---

www.thepatriotwoodworker.com Proud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops