March 8, 201313 yr I have been researching and considering building at DIY version of a drum sander. Basically combining elements from Ron Walter's drum sander and Pat Hawley's thickness sander as well as the "c" design found on Todd Hunt's drum sander. I built my disc sander a few years ago. As its still working I am thinking of tackling this project.As I have never owned a drum sander I had a few questions. What is the optimal rpm for such a unit (12 inch wide). I am planning to use a 1 HP motor I salvaged from an old mini lathe.For my design I am planning on using a worm gear (salvaged from an old car jack) for the vertical adjustment of the table to run between 1/8 " to 6.5". I have not seen a worm gear used in other designs. What would be your concern(s) (in case there's something I haven't thought of or mitigated yet)?What kind of safety components (if any) need to be built in?ThanksKevinKevin WellsChuckin' Woodwww.chuckinwood.com
March 8, 201313 yr Kevin,Here is a link to the one I built-http://www.thepatriotwoodworker.com/profiles/blogs/making-the-thickness-sander-the-drumThere are several installments to the blog. I used a 1/3 hp motor- from a furnace blower. I think the RPM was 1725 (approx). The pulley ratio reduced the drum speed a little. I was just winging it as I went along so nothing was really calculated ahead of time. I made the drum from 3" PVC pipe with several internal supports. One thing I would definitely recommend is using a hook and loop method of sandpaper attachment. This method seems to keep the sandpaper and drum cooler and helps prevent burning as well as making grit changes quicker and easier.Here is where I purchased my hook and loop supplies- http://www.supergrit.com/If you have any questions, I'll be glad to assist you in any way I can.Lew Kauffman-Wood Turners Forum HostTime traveler. Purveyor of the world's finest custom rolling pins!
March 9, 201313 yr The smaller the threads, the more accurate the height adjustment will be.That being said, I would go with bolts with a bike sprocket on each and a bike chain runnning around both so when you turn one, they both turn the same amount for right and left drum alignment/height.
March 9, 201313 yr As far as safety concerns, the drum needs to be covered for sure from the top, loose clothing or even anything that may fall from your shirt pocket into the rotating drum would be a major issue. A trip to stop the motor in case it starts hogging off more material then the motor can handle, without the trip, the motor will go and go until it just burns out.John MorrisThe Patriot WoodworkerProud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops and Wounded Warriors Project
March 9, 201313 yr I like the links you provided Kevin, those drum sanders are really cool, just goes to show ya, it you really want to, you can!John MorrisThe Patriot WoodworkerProud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops and Wounded Warriors Project
March 9, 201313 yr I really like Ron Walters design. It has a motorized belt feed and looks to be very well engineered and constructed. The only drawback I see is that it is limited to material for the width of the drum unlike the drum sanders that are of the "C" type where you can sand one edge and then rotate the stock and sand the other. Before you venture down this road however you need to understand and account for several factors.1. Depending on how accurate you want the machine to be you must remember that wood has movement and will affect the accuracy from one day to the next based on temp and humidity. Pick woods that have the least amount of movement with the greatest amount of strength which will have an impact on the construction cost.2. Price everything out and that means every screw, bolt, chain, piece of wood, etc etc and add 10% to that estimate. Don't forget to factor in your time. Compare that to the cost of a manufactured drum sander. Many times people will spend $$$ to make an item that costs less or a little more and haven't factored in the time.Good luck with the build and we want pics and updates!www.thepatriotwoodworker.com Proud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops
March 9, 201313 yr Author I hadn't thought of the trip, though I did plan for two power switches, one a paddle type at knee height (well knee for me, shoulder for everyone else ). John if you like those take a look at the http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mdgg_M07VhI, Eventually I hope to tackle that...providing I don't find a decent joiner for less than the build cost. Lewis, how does that size motor do for you? Does it get bogged down easily? Kevin WellsChuckin' Woodwww.chuckinwood.com
March 9, 201313 yr That's a pretty cool looking jointer.www.thepatriotwoodworker.com Proud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops
March 9, 201313 yr Kevin, I have sanded end grain walnut cutting boards that were almost as wide as the drum (13" drum/12" board). You could tell the motor was being loaded down. I typically use my sander for more narrow work and only take off between 1/64 and 1/32" at a time, depending on the grit of the belt. Kevin Wells said: I hadn't thought of the trip, though I did plan for two power switches, one a paddle type at knee height (well knee for me, shoulder for everyone else ). John if you like those take a look at the http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mdgg_M07VhI, Eventually I hope to tackle that...providing I don't find a decent joiner for less than the build cost. Lewis, how does that size motor do for you? Does it get bogged down easily? Kevin WellsChuckin' Woodwww.chuckinwood.com
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