Well, once I finished fixing the bandsaw, I took that unbalanced blank back and cut it round which significantly reduced the diameter, oh well.

So now it was on to turning. A couple things to think about- if you have never turned a bowl. One of the first is to consider how you want to finish off the bottom/foot of the bowl. This may seem backwards but it is important. The other is what methods of holding the piece are available to you. I started this bowl using a faceplate to prepare the blank. 

Green wood is so much fun to turn!!

The faceplate side will end up being the "top" of the bowl. The faceplate mounting screw dig deep into the wood. Making this side the top will cut away the screw holes. 

 

In order to hold the blank for shaping I will use my chuck. I prefer to create a recess instead of a stub to interface the chuck to the blank. Because the chuck jaws flair out slightly, making a "dovetail" style recess provides greater holding power. A simple tool made from a file easily accomplishes the cut.

Now it's just a matter of remounting the blank and begin the rough shaping. My preference is to begin shaping the outside of the bowl and the base/foot.

The base/foot looks rather large but during the final finishing the chuck recess will be enlarged and the depth reduced to form the final base.

Once satisfied with the outside, it's on to hollowing the inside. On this bowl, my goal was to create about a 3/4" thick blank over most of the piece.

Getting close! The shavings are piling up!

Here is the blank ready to begin the drying phase. I always try and leave a center post in the large turning to provide support. It will get removed during the final sizing.

Pictured are the tools and measuring devices used so far-

Easy Wood Finisher, various scrapers, large bowl gouge, S-type tool rests (inside and out), straight tools rests depth indicator and thickness indicator.

Next time it's about drying. Going to try a new (for me) method.

Until then- Safe Turning!

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Lew Kauffman-
Wood Turners Forum Host

Time traveler. Purveyor of the world's finest custom rolling pins!

Lew, I love the wood grains in the bowl. I also like your light shade, very clever.

Thank You, Dawn! The grain was a total surprise to me, too. I saw the knot when I started but didn't realize how it when thru the piece. The shade was a quick fix and, well, it just stayed.

Dawn Jetta said:

Lew, I love the wood grains in the bowl. I also like your light shade, very clever.

I love reading your blogs Lew! Keep it up!

Those shaving are a beautiful sight!

Nate

Thanks for the kind words, Nate! The pix of the shavings were not "staged". I was knee deep in them by the time I had the bowl roughed out.

Nate Meadows said:

I love reading your blogs Lew! Keep it up!

Those shaving are a beautiful sight!

Nate

thought we would send in the rescue crew to find u in all THOSE shavings lol,great lookin bowl Lewis

 

It's probably a good thing the lathe doesn't have a larger capacity. I might never find my way out of the pile of shavings!!!

Ron England said:

thought we would send in the rescue crew to find u in all THOSE shavings lol,great lookin bowl Lewis

 

Wow that is going to be a beautiful bowl. Great grain pattern. I just love surprises like that. Excellent write up and picture tutorial Lew. I love it when there are lots of pictures and explanations.

That is a good idea on leaving the center post. I have never done that. I'll be giving it a try.

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John Moody
Site Administrator


John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

Hi Lew,
Nice bowl,I just joined the club,Nice people here, i also just started to learn how to turn wood, i;m as green as they come,now i can watch this site on wed. i;m in the middle of turning a bowl,(cedar) what a mess.it;s starting to look like a bowl???not sure if i;m doing it right? some times it will almost knock the tool out of my hand, was told to move up tool rest. i;ll be glad when i know what i;m doing...lol
Joe

Joe, in most cases you want to tool rest at a place that lets the tool you are using cut as the piece is coming down. So if you ride the bevel of the tool on the piece being cut it is coming down into the tool and it will shear the wood away. If you are using a scraper, you want the tool a little more flat so the tool rest would be a little above the center of the piece. Usually if the tool rest is around the center of the piece you will be okay.

Also if the tool is grabbing it can be a couple of things. One the tool has to be sharp. I use an 8" grinder with the Wolverine jig on it to keep the bevel angle correct on my tools. Sometimes if the wood is dry you might have to stop and sharpen during the turning. Wet wood as Lew was turning will not be so bad on it.

Second, is to make sure you keep the bevel of the tool riding against the piece being turned. If you get the edge too low and the back of the bevel off the wood it will cause a catch and jerk the tool down.

Three things to do every time are the ABC's of turning.

A - Anchor the tool against the tool rest.

B - ride the Bevel against the wood and lift the handle up until the piece starts cutting.

C - Let the tool do the Cutting.

Anchor, Bevel, Cut

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John Moody
Site Administrator


John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com