Please understand, I've NEVER done this before!

I'm planning to build 4 jewelry chests with 2 ea. 21"X5" doors per chest.

The doors will be frame and panel construction....curly maple, if that makes a difference.

Each door will need a 1/4" wide strip inlay about 1/4"  outside the inner sides of the rails and stiles. 

That's about 48" of channel and strip per door.

Right now, I'm leaning toward purchased, single species (dark) inlay strips. They are approx. 1/28" thick.

Lee Valley sells a neat little Japanese inlay knife and a miniature router plane that would probably do the trick. However, it seems that a trim router and a 1/4 down spiral bit would be considerably more efficient.

Question #1 for you guys who have done this type of work: Which method would you use?

I'm envisioning building the doors, then inlaying them. I can't see any other way. Which leads me to...

Question #2: After spending the time to build 8 doors, how can I be fairly confident that I won't screw them up, whichever method used? 

Other than an edge guide for the router are there any other tips? 

With the knife from Lee Valley, can you suggest a guide system or cutting method that would keep the knife from following the grain? 

I get nervous just thinking about this process....about the work involved in getting the doors ready for the inlay...resaw, plane, sand, assembly prefinish etc...then the thought of destroying one, or more, with a slight slip up just makes me sick. So any advice would be GREATLY appreciated.

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Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

Never done this type of work but I'll be waiting for a good answer.

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Charles Nicholls
Site Host
nicholls61@att.net
Proud supporter of The Wounded Warrior Project, Homes For Our Troops and the NRA

http://www.etsy.com/shop/nichollswoodworks

I've have never done any of this type of inlay, either. So maybe my idea is way off base. Depending on how you planned to join the door rails and stiles, it might be possible to mill the stock, inlay the pieces and then join the rails and stiles. I was thinking about a mitered bridle joint-

This approach would hopefully keep the possibility of ruining a completed frame to a minimum.

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Lew Kauffman-
Wood Turners Forum Host

Time Traveler and Purveyor of the Universe's Finest Custom Rolling Pins!

Thanks, Lew. That makes sense. 

Appreciate your time to make the drawing, too.

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Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

I stole liberated the picture from the web.

Gene Howe said:

Thanks, Lew. That makes sense. 

Appreciate your time to make the drawing, too.

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Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

Gene, Lew hit the nail on the head. Inlay the strips before you assemble the doors.

Bypass the inlay tool kit, no fancy thin strips or inlay knife is needed.

Purchase your darker species lumber, mill it down to desired thickness and width,

Use your router table to make the groove in the rail and stiles stock and glue the strip into the groove. Leave your self some material to work with. I would rout a groove at 1/4" deep, and surface plane your strips at 5/16" or even 3/8th's. Glue them in your grooves, and drum sand the strips flush to the stile material, or hand plane em down flush, then assemble the door frames as you normally would.

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John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker

Thanks Lew and John. 

Guess I'll learn another skill now. I've never cut a mitered bridal joint. 

But, using the thicker, shop made inlay and doing it pre assembly sure sounds faster and less goof prone. 

Edit: I have made splined miter joints. Those would be simpler. 

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Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

The spline joints will do just fine Gene!

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John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker

Gene

Working with thicker inlaid strips for your first time will help simplify the process and give you more wiggle room. Applying the inlaid strips before you assemble the doors is sound advice and should be followed. The thinner stuff is hard to work with first time out, and you have to be very careful not to crack or break it. Gluing it in place is pretty simple though, I use a finger or a small rubber roller to smooth it out. Wipe off the pushed out glue with a damp soft cloth, then it is just light sanding after it all dries. If you want something other then a plain inlaid strip, you can make them in your own in the shop. Just laminate the pieces and colors you wish to use, then cut to size. You can leave them a little proud and sand them to match the surface or use a plane to get them there. I prefer the plane method myself. Routing the grooves on the router table is a good way to go when running straight strips and keeps the grooves identical via the fence. I would suggest a set of hold downs to keep the wood against the table surface, one on each side of the bit. One other thought comes to mind for you. If you are going to use thicker inlay, bevel the bottom sides a bit, makes installing them easier and gives some of the glue a place to go rather then get trapped under the strip, this also aids in a better glue job.

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Wayne Mahler
God bless and protect our troops that serve so we can be free.

Thanks wayne. Some great advice there. 

I've always wanted to make some inlay strips....but not this time.:-)

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Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

Gene

Please post some pics when you are going through this. Personally I find it interesting as I am sure others will. Looking forward to the progress on your project.

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Wayne Mahler
God bless and protect our troops that serve so we can be free.

One of the great pieces of advice here by Wayne is to chamfer the bottom of the strips to allow glue to flow, great job Wayne.

Wayne Mahler said:

Gene

Please post some pics when you are going through this. Personally I find it interesting as I am sure others will. Looking forward to the progress on your project.

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Wayne Mahler
God bless and protect our troops that serve so we can be free.

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John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker

Wayne,

It's in the duck organizing stage, right now. There are a few that need some counseling. As soon as they are in a row I can start cutting wood. I'll be sure to post a few pics as things progress.

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Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

Gene

Hoping to see some pictures hen your ducks line up .  I have an upcoming job that will require this. I'll try and  post some pics when I get to it.

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Wayne Mahler
God bless and protect our troops that serve so we can be free.

Sorry I'm late on this one.

Yes, do it before you cut the stiles and rails.

A slitter used with light pressure ( very light and kinda slow) makes a great starting cut for the sides of the inlay to keep the edges from feathering.

Thanks to everyone for the great suggestions and encouragement. 

Still rounding up the ducks. In a week or so, I hope to have them in line.

I hope to get some pics. From ducks to jewelry chests.

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Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

One last piece of advise Gene, create your grooves first so you can then sneak up on a perfect fit with the strips.

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John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker

Thanks, John. But, ain't that what Bondo is for? :-)

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Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

IX-nay on the Jap tool.  Stars for the down spiral cutter.

If you are running it off the end like the Pic you linked to then just use a cutter and a fence in the router table.

If you are stopping the rout then set up blocks along the fence to stop the work - - - make  a test piece to check the stops and have at it.