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Has anyone tried this?

Featured Replies

I have seen it done using a planing sled where you take a thicker piece of wood and then glue a lip to the front and back edge to hold the piece you want to plane. But I think that this idea would work well.





Allen Worsham
Corona, CA

allenworsham@earthlink.net

'Graze in every man's field, but always give your own milk.'
J. Vernon McGee

“Our greatest fear should not be that we won’t succeed,
but that we will succeed at something that doesn’t matter.â€
D.L. Moody

I use a sandpaper covered sled. I can plane to 1/8" easily. Much thinner, the process you noted would be great. 




Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

Looks like it should work.


I made a "riser" for my planer. It's just a 3/4" thick piece of plywood the width of the planer bed and long enough to extend thru the planer and cover both in and out feed tables. I glued an 1/8" piece of plexiglass on the "top" to make the surface "slippery". Added a little lip/catch to the in feed end so it hooks down over the infeed table preventing the piece from being pulled thru the planer during operation. It works well BUT you still need to be wary of knots, crazy grain directions and wood defects. As the material gets thinner it will have a tendency to tear apart at those locations. For really thin stuff, I used my homemade drum sander.





Lew Kauffman-
Wood Turners Forum Host
Rolling Pin photo crop3_zps88fb0af9.jpg?width=100
Time Traveler and Purveyor of the Universe's Finest Custom Rolling Pins!

I did sorta like Lew but made a sled to feed through the drum sander. Not as likely to have flying pieces as it gets thin. I took some walnut fairly thin last week to make some buttons my wife was using on a crocheted shawl.



Take a 3/4" piece of plywood, I put sandpaper on it to hold it in place like the feed belt does and just ran it through checking in with my gauge after each pass.



I have also done this to make a thin veneer to make chess boards.



The main thing if you run it through the planner is again as Lew pointed out, watch for grain and knots as they will take flight inside the planer and sometimes make it out.





John Moody
Site Administratorning-johnmoodywoodworkslogo2-8220-67.jpghttp://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com
“Don’t make something unless it is both necessary and useful; but if it is both necessary and useful, don’t hesitate to make it beautiful.†Shaker Saying

  • Author


John,



Did you attach the sandpaper to the 3/4 plywood in any way?  This sounds a bit easier than gluing ends of boards together.  :)



SQ



John Moody said:


I did sorta like Lew but made a sled to feed through the drum sander. Not as likely to have flying pieces as it gets thin. I took some walnut fairly thin last week to make some buttons my wife was using on a crocheted shawl.



Take a 3/4" piece of plywood, I put sandpaper on it to hold it in place like the feed belt does and just ran it through checking in with my gauge after each pass.



I have also done this to make a thin veneer to make chess boards.



The main thing if you run it through the planner is again as Lew pointed out, watch for grain and knots as they will take flight inside the planer and sometimes make it out.





John Moody
Site Administratorning-johnmoodywoodworkslogo2-8219-72.jpghttp://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com
“Don’t make something unless it is both necessary and useful; but if it is both necessary and useful, don’t hesitate to make it beautiful.†Shaker Saying




No, I glued 400 grit sandpaper on the 3/4" plywood and just fed it through the drum sander. The belt on a drum sander that carries your piece through is just 400 grit paper in a large belt. The sandpaper holds it from sliding off and you just take light passes.



I did run in through the planer till I got it to about 1/4" which I think is the minimum you can take the planer. Then switched to the drum sander since it will be a bit slower in removing product, but will work to get it pretty thin.




SQ said:



John,



Did you attach the sandpaper to the 3/4 plywood in any way?  This sounds a bit easier than gluing ends of boards together.  :)



SQ



John Moody said:





Happiness is wood chips flying!


  • Author

Thanks!



SQ




Happiness is wood chips flying!

nope haven't done that yet as I have no way of planing other than hand planer :)





Charles Nicholls
Site Host
nicholls61@att.net
Proud supporter of The Wounded Warrior Project, Homes For Our Troops and the NRA

http://www.etsy.com/shop/nichollswoodworks

  • Author

I thought it might work, too.  Thanks for the comment.



SQ

Allen Worsham said:


I have seen it done using a planing sled where you take a thicker piece of wood and then glue a lip to the front and back edge to hold the piece you want to plane. But I think that this idea would work well.





Allen Worsham
Corona, CA

allenworsham@earthlink.net

'Graze in every man's field, but always give your own milk.'
J. Vernon McGee

“Our greatest fear should not be that we won’t succeed,
but that we will succeed at something that doesn’t matter.â€
D.L. Moody




  • Author


Gene,



I really like your idea.  Did you glue the sandpaper to the sled?  I've read about using double-faced tape but then I'd have the tape residue to contend with.  :(



SQ



Gene Howe said:


I use a sandpaper covered sled. I can plane to 1/8" easily. Much thinner, the process you noted would be great. 




Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton




  • Author

Lew,



You have mentioned this sled before - and it's still a great idea. I really should build one.  I know what you mean about pieces shattering and coming out all openings.  I've had it happen which is the reason I wear a complete face shield when I'm planing thin pieces or do anything that is questionable.:)  I also never stand in front of the planer feed or exit areas but always to the side. 



SQ




Lewis Kauffman said:


Looks like it should work.


I made a "riser" for my planer. It's just a 3/4" thick piece of plywood the width of the planer bed and long enough to extend thru the planer and cover both in and out feed tables. I glued an 1/8" piece of plexiglass on the "top" to make the surface "slippery". Added a little lip/catch to the in feed end so it hooks down over the infeed table preventing the piece from being pulled thru the planer during operation. It works well BUT you still need to be wary of knots, crazy grain directions and wood defects. As the material gets thinner it will have a tendency to tear apart at those locations. For really thin stuff, I used my homemade drum sander.





Lew Kauffman-
Wood Turners Forum Host
Rolling Pin photo crop3_zps88fb0af9.jpg?width=100
Time Traveler and Purveyor of the Universe's Finest Custom Rolling Pins!




  • Author

I wish I had a drum sander.  If I did, my life would be complete.  :)  I would run everything through the drum sander.  :)  



SQ





John Moody said: 


No, I glued 400 grit sandpaper on the 3/4" plywood and just fed it through the drum sander. The belt on a drum sander that carries your piece through is just 400 grit paper in a large belt. The sandpaper holds it from sliding off and you just take light passes.



I did run in through the planer till I got it to about 1/4" which I think is the minimum you can take the planer. Then switched to the drum sander since it will be a bit slower in removing product, but will work to get it pretty thin.




SQ said:





Happiness is wood chips flying!






John Moody
Site Administratorning-johnmoodywoodworkslogo2-8212-9.jpg?http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com
“Don’t make something unless it is both necessary and useful; but if it is both necessary and useful, don’t hesitate to make it beautiful.†Shaker Saying


Thanks. Excellent safety precautions!!


When I built my sander, I didn't make any depth stops to limit the thickness. I guess that could be a bad idea because of sanding into the table but so far I've been careful. I usually plane to a little over an 1/8" or a little less if the wood looks good, then sand to the thickness I need. 


As John pointed out, if the wood comes apart in the sander it doesn't go flying in all directions.

SQ said:


Lew,



You have mentioned this sled before - and it's still a great idea. I really should build one.  I know what you mean about pieces shattering and coming out all openings.  I've had it happen which is the reason I wear a complete face shield when I'm planing thin pieces or do anything that is questionable.:)  I also never stand in front of the planer feed or exit areas but always to the side. 



SQ




Lewis Kauffman said:





Happiness is wood chips flying!


  • Author

Charles,



This planer is SO noisy, and I think it could use some new blades.  A hand planer is sounding better all the time.  :)



SQ




Charles Nicholls said:


nope haven't done that yet as I have no way of planing other than hand planer :)





Charles Nicholls
Site Host
nicholls61@att.net
Proud supporter of The Wounded Warrior Project, Homes For Our Troops and the NRA

http://www.etsy.com/shop/nichollswoodworks




  • Author

Lew,



Building your own drum sander is impressive. I wish I had that kind of know how.  I have a sand flee but because the roller doesn't come down from the top, I find the result isn't always level.  Steady even pressure as I roll it across the drum is critical - and not always accomplished.  :(



SQ





Lewis Kauffman said:


Thanks. Excellent safety precautions!!


When I built my sander, I didn't make any depth stops to limit the thickness. I guess that could be a bad idea because of sanding into the table but so far I've been careful. I usually plane to a little over an 1/8" or a little less if the wood looks good, then sand to the thickness I need. 


As John pointed out, if the wood comes apart in the sander it doesn't go flying in all directions.

SQ said:





Happiness is wood chips flying!






Lew Kauffman-
Wood Turners Forum Host
Rolling Pin photo crop3_zps88fb0af9.jpg?width=100
Time Traveler and Purveyor of the Universe's Finest Custom Rolling Pins!


I use a sled as well, but mine is a cheap one and not as fancy as some others mentioned here.  I just use a piece of 1/4" Baltic Birch that I have sanded down to 220 grit.  It is wide enough to cover the entire width and long enough to fit through the planer.  Put my piece onthe sled, push it forward and away we go.



As others have said, I sometimes get a little tear out when going down to 1/8", but standing a little to the side makes sendse to me.  Speaking of noisy - I use ear protectors every time I fire up the planer.



Thanks for the other suggestions.




Fred
aka Pop's Shop
www.pops-shop.com
'Soooooo many patterns - sooooo little time'
Scroll Saw Forum Host

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