December 5, 201312 yr Capt. Eddie recently posted a video covering end grain tear out while turning and how to easily avoid it. Here's a link to the You Tube location. Lew Kauffman-Wood Turners Forum HostTime Traveler and Purveyor of the Universe's Finest Custom Rolling Pins!
December 19, 201312 yr Like when getting teat out on a planer you run the wood the other way.Thanks for posting. I like the way he explains himselfThe man is - - earthy.Watching him use a digital caliper like a scribe on the lathe made my teeth chatter. Coming from a toolmaking background I came up treating measuring tools like they were oh so precious and tender.  But Not Cap'n Eddie. His caliper is disposable.
December 19, 201312 yr Author I, too, enjoy his style.Cliff said:Like when getting teat out on a planer you run the wood the other way.Thanks for posting. I like the way he explains himselfThe man is - - earthy.Watching him use a digital caliper like a scribe on the lathe made my teeth chatter. Coming from a toolmaking background I came up treating measuring tools like they were oh so precious and tender.  But Not Cap'n Eddie. His caliper is disposable.
March 27, 201412 yr Yea using calipers in a wood environment is nasty on them. Small chips get in and make the teeth grind and they generallly get abused. That's why you buy the cheap ones.  My Starret caliper stays in my machinist tool box.     If you get tearout in a bow because you turned against the grain sometimes you can go the other way sometimes not. If you picked a piece of wood with some knots in it the grain runs every which direction. What I will often do is try cutting in reverse or maybe use a shear scraper and cut in the opposite direction you first cut. What that usually does however is clean up the bad area but introduce another bad area bout 180 degree from the first on.      Generally a lot of tearout happens because people don't have tools ground to sharp enough angle or they force the cut or both.  If I'm cutting with my bowl gouge that has 50 degree nose angle grind and I'm getting tearout, the first thing I do is sharpen it and slow down my feed rate or speed up the lathe or both if I can.  That will often stop it. If that doesn't work I switch to a 40 degree grind bowl gouge. If that doesn't work and the bowl is shallow enough I switch to my 35 degree grind detail gouge.  If I can't use that one I use one of my Hunter carbide tools. The Hunter tools used as a bevel rubbing tool cut extremely clean because the cutting edge is about 27 degrees and they are very sharp.  Heres's a video showing how I use them.        I did make this video when they first came out. He now has some great tools called Hercules and Osprey that I love.  YOu can find them demoed in my other videos on youtube.   I also have some good ones on sharpening and just basic tool techniques as well as the skew
March 28, 201412 yr Thank you John!!!! New to turning here, I can use all the help and information I can get at this point, I have admired your videos from afar, nice work!!!!!john Lucas said: Yea using calipers in a wood environment is nasty on them. Small chips get in and make the teeth grind and they generallly get abused. That's why you buy the cheap ones.  My Starret caliper stays in my machinist tool box.     If you get tearout in a bow because you turned against the grain sometimes you can go the other way sometimes not. If you picked a piece of wood with some knots in it the grain runs every which direction. What I will often do is try cutting in reverse or maybe use a shear scraper and cut in the opposite direction you first cut. What that usually does however is clean up the bad area but introduce another bad area bout 180 degree from the first on.      Generally a lot of tearout happens because people don't have tools ground to sharp enough angle or they force the cut or both.  If I'm cutting with my bowl gouge that has 50 degree nose angle grind and I'm getting tearout, the first thing I do is sharpen it and slow down my feed rate or speed up the lathe or both if I can.  That will often stop it. If that doesn't work I switch to a 40 degree grind bowl gouge. If that doesn't work and the bowl is shallow enough I switch to my 35 degree grind detail gouge.  If I can't use that one I use one of my Hunter carbide tools. The Hunter tools used as a bevel rubbing tool cut extremely clean because the cutting edge is about 27 degrees and they are very sharp.  Heres's a video showing how I use them.        I did make this video when they first came out. He now has some great tools called Hercules and Osprey that I love.  YOu can find them demoed in my other videos on youtube.   I also have some good ones on sharpening and just basic tool techniques as well as the skew John MorrisThe Patriot Woodworker
March 28, 201412 yr Author Thanks, John, for the link to your video and the additional information. Really glad to have you here and looking forward to your advice and assistance!john Lucas said: Yea using calipers in a wood environment is nasty on them. Small chips get in and make the teeth grind and they generallly get abused. That's why you buy the cheap ones.  My Starret caliper stays in my machinist tool box.     If you get tearout in a bow because you turned against the grain sometimes you can go the other way sometimes not. If you picked a piece of wood with some knots in it the grain runs every which direction. What I will often do is try cutting in reverse or maybe use a shear scraper and cut in the opposite direction you first cut. What that usually does however is clean up the bad area but introduce another bad area bout 180 degree from the first on.      Generally a lot of tearout happens because people don't have tools ground to sharp enough angle or they force the cut or both.  If I'm cutting with my bowl gouge that has 50 degree nose angle grind and I'm getting tearout, the first thing I do is sharpen it and slow down my feed rate or speed up the lathe or both if I can.  That will often stop it. If that doesn't work I switch to a 40 degree grind bowl gouge. If that doesn't work and the bowl is shallow enough I switch to my 35 degree grind detail gouge.  If I can't use that one I use one of my Hunter carbide tools. The Hunter tools used as a bevel rubbing tool cut extremely clean because the cutting edge is about 27 degrees and they are very sharp.  Heres's a video showing how I use them.        I did make this video when they first came out. He now has some great tools called Hercules and Osprey that I love.  YOu can find them demoed in my other videos on youtube.   I also have some good ones on sharpening and just basic tool techniques as well as the skew
March 28, 201412 yr Thanks for the links to the video's John. Love to see your work and it is amazing. Enjoyed getting to chat with you a few years back at the Nashville Woodturning Symposium. John MoodySite Administratorhttp://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com“Don’t make something unless it is both necessary and useful; but if it is both necessary and useful, don’t hesitate to make it beautiful.†Shaker Saying
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