Anybody tried using electrolysis for removing rust to restore old woodworking hand tools? Got several planes and whatnot from my grandfather and would love to restore them if possible.

Hi Will, I use the electrolysis method for cleaning up my "Old Delta Machines"

 

It sure is a work saver.

 

Here's a couple of before/after shots of a Drill Press head casting.

 

 

 

 

This head took a bit longer than normal to clean as I suspect it came out of a metal working shop.

 

 

 

 

It took about 20 hours in "The Tank" to get it that clean.

I'm using a 25 Amp charger from one of those battery back up sump pumps, with a car battery in the circuit.

The charger was a freebie from my neighbor, and makes a big difference compared to my old 6 Amp charger.

 

 

 

 

 

 

That is my small parts cleaning tank.

The same neighbor just gave me a big orange plastic laundry cart on wheels which will probably fit a complete Uni-Saw.

 

Larry

 

 

Old Woodworking Machinery Forum Host

 

Great tip Larry!

I've used it on several different tools, and it worked great! I also have a sandblast cabinet, and it has done well also.

43 minutes ago, oldwoodie said:

I've used it on several different tools, and it worked great! I also have a sandblast cabinet, and it has done well also.

I am wondering what is the best amperage to use. I have a couple of battery chargers that charge 15 amp max, and have a 50 amp. booster. I would hesitate to use the 50 amp. for any long term usage. 

What are your thoughts on this?

 

Herb

I'd go with the 15 amps.  I know the old transformer based chargers are recommended for use.  Not sure if new electronic chargers will work.

I done a project using this method a few years ago.  Seems like I used the trickle charge setting.  If it makes any difference I was cleaning up sheet metal, several old rusty tool boxes.

@Will...for small tools like planes, squares etc. I've been using Evap-O-Rust. A little pricey, but lasts a long time if you keep the deposits poured off. However, if you're looking to completely remove the paint (or japanning on planes), Evap-O-Rust does not do that. It is non-toxic and environmentally "green." If only wiped off and allowed to dry it also will leave a protective coat on the metal minimizing rust for ~6 mo.

 

Electrolysis cleaned parts are very susceptible to flash rust if not treated or painted almost immediately. Another alternative is plain 'ole white vinegar. Just don't leave the cast iron/steel parts in it for months on end. Don't ask me how I know this. My $.02.

14 hours ago, Grandpadave52 said:

@Will...for small tools like planes, squares etc. I've been using Evap-O-Rust. A little pricey, but lasts a long time if you keep the deposits poured off. However, if you're looking to completely remove the paint (or japanning on planes), Evap-O-Rust does not do that. It is non-toxic and environmentally "green." If only wiped off and allowed to dry it also will leave a protective coat on the metal minimizing rust for ~6 mo.

 

Electrolysis cleaned parts are very susceptible to flash rust if not treated or painted almost immediately. Another alternative is plain 'ole white vinegar. Just don't leave the cast iron/steel parts in it for months on end. Don't ask me how I know this. My $.02.

I use apple cider vinegar and if you leave it too long eats the metal too.

20 minutes ago, Gerald said:

I use apple cider vinegar and if you leave it too long eats the metal too.

Yes it does...I had some small cast iron parts that just disappeared

I use it all the time for my junkyard junk... If you reverse the wires and dump in some Copper sulfate, otherwise known as bluestone, you then can put a plating of copper on your junk yard junk...