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Water marks / blushing

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When some finishes (most often shellac or lacquer) get moisture, like from a drip or condensation on a glass or pizza box, they blush or turn whitish. What can you do to resolve this?

I've used several methods.

  • Some people say put down a cloth and run an iron over it. I tried this once and it damaged the finish. REJECT Also people say heat with a hair drier. Nah.

  • Other people say rub on some mayonnaise and let sit overnight, then wipe off. This was not a good option for a repair call to do this, tell them to wipe it off in the morning and hope that it worked and you don't have to go back. Also, Bob Flexner once told me he wished he'd never recommended doing this. REJECT

  • Oil of some sort and cigarette ashes. I don't smoke.

  • My go-to was to use a wiping cloth made especially for removing the spots. It always worked. But it left a spot that was bit oily and maybe a bit glossier. No problem to clean up and it with some touch-up spray. (see attachment)

  • Proprietary products, normally a slow or weak solvent. Might be called a "restorer", "blush eliminator", "ring remover," or "reflow solution." Applied and left to dry. I had a regular customer who was in a site with a too-small warehouse. So often the pieces needing work were in a semi trailer backed up to a dock. I'd spray on some touch up spray and it would blush during the humid summer weather. So then I'd have to spray on some blush remover and let it dry for several minutes. Then repeat multiple times.

  • My go-to was to use a wiping cloth made especially for removing the spots. It always worked. But it left a spot that was bit oily and maybe a bit glossier. No problem to clean up and it with some touch-up spray. (see attachment)

  • In a severe case, a moving blanket was on a leaking moving van and blushed an antique piece. The owner, who must watch Antiques Road Show, did not want it stripped and refinished. I used the cloths above, working but slow. Since I figured on the age it was probably shellac, I put some denatured alcohol on a cloth and did a quick land-and-take-off wipe. The blush disappeared immediately

water_mark_before-300x300.jpg

water_mark_after-300x300.jpg

water_mark_2_before_small-300x300.jpg

water_mark_2_after_small-300x300.jpg

WHITE-RING-REMOVER-HOMAX_823c9ae6-ffa1-41f7-bda1-791cd77f5ebd.eaec0694bbbdf2d16998f2226fbbe2e9.pdf

Edited by kmealy

I've read about the mayonnaise trick several times, and the folks mentioning it generally claim it to be a winner. I've never tried it, and probably never will. I don't do much lacquer finish at all, years ago I did use some and had some blush. I sprayed a light coat of lacquer thinner over it and the blush disappeared. I do use a fair amount of shellac and don't think I've ever had a blush problem with it....but I'm usually careful about the conditions when I apply it.

We have some of that North Carolina massed produced stuff. Red oak with tinted lacquer finish. Noticed some white marks on one of the pieces, maybe someone set a hot cup of coffee down on it. Anyway, Mimi said her uncle used to use the cigarette ash idea. No one here smokes. I did have a container of Yorkshire grit (regular- not micro grit). Used a soft cloth and a little of the paste rubbed it on the spot and it worked really well. Left it shiny, smooth and lifted the white spot.

1 hour ago, lew said:

We have some of that North Carolina massed produced stuff. Red oak with tinted lacquer finish. Noticed some white marks on one of the pieces, maybe someone set a hot cup of coffee down on it. Anyway, Mimi said her uncle used to use the cigarette ash idea. No one here smokes. I did have a container of Yorkshire grit (regular- not micro grit). Used a soft cloth and a little of the paste rubbed it on the spot and it worked really well. Left it shiny, smooth and lifted the white spot.

I'll have to remember that, I have some Yorkshire Grit.

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