If you are trying to stain something, never rely on the label being something like "special walnut", "medium walnut", "colonial walnut", whatever. There are several variances in the color

• The wood that's being stained.* Walnut, cherry, maple and poplar will not necessary take the same color of the same stain. Grain patterns, poriosity, raw wood color, and hardness have effects.

• The manufacturer's name on the can. The same name can look radically different, even on the same wood. I have about 3 different cans of 'Espresso' stain and each looks different*

• How carefully you stir the can. If the stain contains pigment, there will be sludge at the bottom of a not recently used can. Failure to stir adequately will affect the color. Stains consist of dyes (that are dissolved in the carrier), pigments (powders that are suspended by stirring), either or both. (Excluding chemical reactions that are typically not made except in the shop.)

• Dye only and pigment only stains can look different, as can wipe on and gel stains. (spotching, lighter, or clear staining)

• How many coats you apply and how well you wipe off the excess.

* I have a sample of five different species of wood with 3 different "walnut" stains on them. None look the same.

The best solution is to run some samples. Here is a set of samples on poplar, each made as I used the stain on a project.

I also have some "step boards" that show a set of stains on different woods, stain only, one coat of finish, and two coats of finish,

Edited September 6Sep 6 by kmealy

2 hours ago, kmealy said:

If you are trying to stain something, never rely on the label being something

Although necessary in some situations, I try to avoid staining for all the factors you mentioned (too many variables!). Ideally I find a wood near the color I want. Favorites are cherry, walnut, and more recently white oak. Having said that, I've needed to stain oak to get a particular color for several house projects recently. Always a bit of a "hope I have this right" with regard to the product, sanding, application, etc. I like the idea of making sample boards when using on a project for future reference. Very helpful post.

2 hours ago, BB1 said:

Although necessary in some situations, I try to avoid staining for all the factors you mentioned (too many variables!). Ideally I find a wood near the color I want. Favorites are cherry, walnut, and more recently white oak. Having said that, I've needed to stain oak to get a particular color for several house projects recently. Always a bit of a "hope I have this right" with regard to the product, sanding, application, etc. I like the idea of making sample boards when using on a project for future reference. Very helpful post.

One of my basic principles, when you are using a new finishing product or procedure, always do a sample before comitting to your project.

Edited September 7Sep 7 by kmealy

Back when Steve Mickley was the finish guru at the Wood forum he gave me a step by step to get ply to look like cherry..

Had my test board till recently and used it in a utility box, I do not remember all the steps but the last application of color ( there was maybe 3 colors) was a General Finishes Glaze. I looked for a pic but it was on the bottom of the bridge on the entertainment center. I do believe the glaze was a great ending for that project.

10 hours ago, Gerald said:

Back when Steve Mickley was the finish guru at the Wood forum he gave me a step by step to get ply to look like cherry..

Had my test board till recently and used it in a utility box, I do not remember all the steps but the last application of color ( there was maybe 3 colors) was a General Finishes Glaze. I looked for a pic but it was on the bottom of the bridge on the entertainment center. I do believe the glaze was a great ending for that project.

There was a local finisher that wrote a book on wood finishing for Popular Woodworking / F+W Publishing. I knew the editor well and initially suggested that doing projects might be enough different than something like Flexner's books that were explaining the technical aspects. I don't know if that was the plan before that or not. I built one of the projects for the book.

Anyway, she was often using glazes to finish off a project. I adopted her techniques and often (almost always) used a glaze to finish off a project. I had a set of six or eight oil-based glazes and I mixed up my own water-based glazes from a base and set of UTCs. One of my regular customers also sold a lot of furniture that was glazed, so if I needed to touch it up, I needed a glaze. Sometimes over stained wood and sometimes over painted (lacquered) wood.

One thing I suggested once that Steve liked on the Wood Forum was trying to get a good color with an "Espresso" stain. I'd stain first with a red stain, then with the dark espresso stain. It really adds a lot of depth.