I’m starting to build a hope chest for my granddaughter. I using the plans from Cherry Tree Toys (Wildwood Designs) "scroll of hope chest", and I’ll have questions as I build this.

I’m going to build the first one out of pine. I have lots of stock wood that is the proper thickness (¾”) so I should be able to fix any mistakes in the build without have to run for more wood 🙂 

The plan is to build the second one out of Elm, if I have enough thick stock, once I have all the parts and pieces for the pine version, I’ll lay out the pieces to see if I have enough Elm.

 

First question:

I will need to glue up two panels approximately ¾ x18 x 33 inches. I have three, four sided panel clamps which translates to about 10 inches between clamps, is this enough clamps?

Second question:

How much extra should I allow when sizing the panel? The exact size when finished or an inch or two extra ( length and width ) and then cut to the finished size?

 

And the third question:

     what would be an optimal width for the strips for the glue up?  I'll be using old shiplap pine that will yield 6" boards. Should I rip them down or use the 6" width" 3"? 2"? These panels are for the back and bottom of the chest, so appearances aren't a big part of the equation.

3 hours ago, Wichman3 said:

Should I rip them down or use the 6" width" 3"? 2"?

IMO it depends. Are the boards straight & w/o cup or bow?

IF they are "pristine" boards then use them the way they are. 

If not rip 'em up.

 

BTW, you probably will need some additional clamps on the edges & field to keep your glued up boards flat.

On Utube  people use metal studs as clamping pawls to keep the glue up flat & true.

"Busted Knuckle Woodworks"

Haven't tried it yet but in my mind it should work.

I'm no expert on clamp number but recalled Katz-Moses did a video. I think this is the one (didn't rewatch it this morning). 

I found this one (yes, you got me thinking more about clamping options!). Interested in seeing other's thoughts on this. 

I always oversize my glued up panels by an inch or so.

Looking at the material list, I'm guessing these are the pieces of your concern. 

1- 3/4in x 18in x 33 1/4in            4)- 5" x 34"

1- 3/4in x 16 1/4in x 33in            3)- 6"x 33 1\2"

4- 1/4in x 12 3/4in x 12 3/4in      3)- 4 1\2"x 13"    for each panel

2- 1/4in x 12 3/4in x 12 3/4in      3)-4 1\2"x 13"     for each panel

 

This would be how I would glue-up the panels. All the panels finish wider than needed which can be trimmed after glue-up. Hope this helps.

The potential problem using metal cauls is in a tannic rich wood like oak,  tannin+iron+moisture (e.g.,from glue) results in black stain.  If you are doing this, best to put packing tape  on the surfaces in wood contact.  I normally just use 2x2 wooden cauls, but I also seal the edges with packing tape so the caul does not get glued onto the panel.  It also  helps if the caul is a bit convex so the pressure also extends out to the middle of the panel.

Had never thought of using tape on cauls to create the middle rise. I just use a plane to shave a bit off from center to both sides. If you use barrow wood it will be necessary to use cauls . Or you can glue up halves and then glue the two sections together.wider boards tend to warp a bit also. Width of the strips is up to you but do try to make them either similar or stagger with two close to same size and then two more of a different size.

 

As to clamps I did not watch the videos. I usually use one clamp every 8 to 10 inches but there is no "rule" I know of. remember to alternate clamps above and below the glueup. This reduces the bow you will get if you glue on one side. 

 

And yes you do need to allow extra size . As Lew said about an inch all around.

I stated in the first post; I'm using four way panel clamps, they look like this

  

These clamps apply pressure to all four sides of a panel. While they are specific to panel glue ups, they are very flexible in that regard. Panel thickness 1/2" to 3 1/2" thickness (1/4" or thinner with a spacer and an extra 1/2" or 3/4" on the sides) and panels as wide as you can make cauls for.

The 1/4" panels I can get out of my stock of Elm, but I'll probably rip them down and then glue up the panels. For the granddaughter, I want to make an heirloom quality item, so solid wood throughout and much attention to detail   

Hey, that's a cool clamp!  Let us know how it works for you!

 

I typically use about 5 normal pipe clamps on a panel that size, alternating sides (3 on one side 2 on the other).  With those clamps pictured I think the 3 you have should be enough - but as I've no experience with that kind of clamp I'm not sure.

 

For oversizing, I usually do about 1/4" per side on panels, so +1/2" each direction in total - but I have also been doing this since before I could drive so I have some level of confidence in how stuff will work out.  You won't go wrong with +1", and the waste is minor compared to getting a good result so focus on the result.

 

I usually cut panel pieces at whatever I can to get them to fit the final size and don't worry so much about making them even.  The main thing is straight and flat for a easy glue up.

8 hours ago, JWD said:

Hey, that's a cool clamp!  Let us know how it works for you!

 

Good to hear from you and see you made it into the New Year John.

I have a pair of those clamps and have a question(s):

 

on a thin glue up, the flat rectangular piece that put pressure on the long side of the wood, how do you align it with the wood if the wood is less than 3/4 thick?

If you put spacers under the panel how would you keep the panels flat to each other?  

 

thks

11 hours ago, smitty10101 said:

I have a pair of those clamps and have a question(s):

 

on a thin glue up, the flat rectangular piece that put pressure on the long side of the wood, how do you align it with the wood if the wood is less than 3/4 thick?

If you put spacers under the panel how would you keep the panels flat to each other?  

 

thks

 

My plan for thin glue ups is to cut 1 x 4 to the length of the panel and then use a dado blade in the table saw to create a "tongue" on one edge that is the same thickness as the panel and about half the width of the 1 x 4 ( 3 1/2  /  2 = 1 3/4" ) .  I would use these on each side of the panel so the clamp can press on the panel, even though it is thinner than the clamp face. 🙂