Changing cutters on a jointer

[Danl]

A friend of mine is asking for help to rotate the cutters on his helical head Powermatic jointer.  I knows that a 300 lb gorilla originally tightened the screws.  He is asking if he can use his impact driver to help break the screws loose.  What say you?  Thanks in advance for you replies.  Danl 

[Ron Dudelston]

Dan, I presume these are Torx head screws.  One of the best ways to break them loose is to take a steel or brass flat punch and give it a good rap straight down.  That should unseat the screws enough that it will break loose. I’ve had to do that on my inserts on my Shelix  planer head.

[Fred W. Hargis Jr]

Those screws have a specific torque value that should be followed, and it's not much. But I'd try Ron's approach before I put an impact wrench to them. When reseating follow the manufacturer's instructions...on mine it's 45 inch #. Be sure to clean the seats before re-installing the inserts.

Edited June 1, 2024 by Fred W. Hargis Jr

[Gene Howe]

I have to rotate mine every so often.  When I do, I notice dust build up gets under the cutters. Makes lines out of the planer. That's my clue to service them. 

 

[Ron Dudelston]

1 hour ago, Gene Howe said:

I have to rotate mine every so often.  When I do, I notice dust build up gets under the cutters. Makes lines out of the planer. That's my clue to service them. 

 

You are correct Gene.  My OCD kicks in when I rotate carbide.  I have a small, fine stone and I stone the seat and wipe it before I put the insert back on.  Then I “shake” it in as I snug the screw.

[John Morris]

I've lost track of which sides my cutters are on. 

I do the same thing with my EWT's.

[Grandpadave52]

If you (or he) has one similar to THESE I'd give it a try. Mine is a 40+ year old Mac Tool version. It's always my go to tool for breaking loose stuck fasteners if I have access. Works on the same principle Ron describes using a steel or brass drift on the head but transfers the force directly to the bolt. Mine has a 3/8" square drive so most standard or impact sockets or bits can be used or an adapter. I used it for years primarily to remove the field coil winding retaining bolts on HD starters & generators but for countless other applications too.

 

Sorry imbedding the link function doesn't seem to be working now; copy and paste below.

 

https://www.amazon.com/KAIFNT-Manual-Impact-Driver-24-Piece/dp/B08LYSHNCW/ref=pd_lpo_sccl_3/145-0090060-5680664?pd_rd_w=ulGlI&content-id=amzn1.sym.1ad2066f-97d2-4731-9356-36b3edf1ae04&pf_rd_p=1ad2066f-97d2-4731-9356-36b3edf1ae04&pf_rd_r=2X07Q9A37MG7NVE93TDQ&pd_rd_wg=sBHw9&pd_rd_r=6febc915-58b0-499d-9414-e6437949b8c0&pd_rd_i=B08LYSHNCW&psc=1

Edited June 2, 2024 by Grandpadave52

[Fred W. Hargis Jr]

I also have one of those things Dave to which Dave referred, mine isn't a MAC (wish it was) but a Lisle. They really do work well.

[Grandpadave52]

1 hour ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

I also have one of those things Dave to which Dave referred, mine isn't a MAC (wish it was) but a Lisle. They really do work well.

I'm not so sure that Lisle may have made the one for MAC Tools way back in the day Fred. Lisle did and does make numerous automotive specialty tools. All good quality. In fact, the MAC tool rep I had those many years ago was also a Lisle distributor.

[Cal]

+1 for Dave's tool of choice.  Mine has seen a lot of use over the years.

I could see where planing pine would cause future problems with the screws being stuck, not so much hardwood.  Would this be an application where you might try a thin wipe of anti-seize on the threads when doing the install?

[Grandpadave52]

5 hours ago, Cal said:

would this be an application where you might try a thin wipe of anti-seize on the threads when doing the install?

IMO Cal, I wouldn't advise it. Using anti-sieze reduces the coefficient of friction which will lead to incorrect torque being applied. Not an application to have incorrect clamp load on the joint.

 

Likely the problem is being encountered underneath the bolt head (assume it's a tapered or countersink head bolt?) and the mating countersink of the cutter insert. The difference of materials (carbide cutter insert & hardened steel bolt) along with heat transfer will "bond" the two as really it should. The hand operated hammer impact releases that "bond."

 

I also fully agree with Fred to be sure to hand-torque each one to the manufacturers spec using a torque wrench. Over torquing potentially can stress the carbide causing small facture lines ultimately leading to failure. Severe enough over torque may cause the fastener to stretch beyond it's elastic state leading to loosening or breakage. Under torquing can result in UFOs (Unwanted Flying Objects).

 

Proper cleaning of an insert and the mating insert bed is critical too.

 

I'm probably being over cautious, but I've seen cutter & fastener failures in manufacturing. It ain't pretty.