Then enlarged it with Rapid Resizer. Maple wood was used.

  Then started transferring the imagines in to the wood.

 

It finally got to where it was turning in to something close to my picture.

  

I never know what I will end up with

 

I got the center piece of wood a little too much red so I toned the carving pieces with a little pink color which was powder and applied it with my fingers to the tops of the pieces mostly so it would all match up better to the NAKED eye.

 I never plan anything before I start a project so its like a soap opera kinda and it make me want to get out there in the shop so I can see what the next step will bring....

  The Dremels did all the small areas and the little pistol grip angle air grinders did the ruffing in to start with. The last picture shows the angle air grinder..  And did you know none of the wood working sites has these types of grinders for sale.  But ole Harbor Freight has them priced so it don't break the bank. I have  been using the two I bought when I first started carving in 2016 but bought them in 2010 for use other than carving.  

 

And I used the scroll saw with blade # 5 to cut the pieces up small enough to hold in my hand while I let the tools do the work. This lets me sit back in my swivel chair and more or less be the conductor or the referee.

 

I hope you enjoy looking as much as I did building them.

I leave the pattern on so I can see what and where I need to carve, whups I meant grind.

Edited September 21, 20232 yr by Smallpatch

Incredible, Jess!

Hey Jess, do you leave the pattern on and carve/grind through it?

5 hours ago, Smallpatch said:

I hope you enjoy looking as much as I did building them

Can't speak to how much you enjoyed making them, but I'm in awe seeing your vision transformed from a one dimensional pattern to a 3D masterpiece.

 

5 hours ago, Smallpatch said:

But ole Harbor Freight has them priced so it don't break the bank. I have  been using the two I bought when I first started carving in 2016 but bought them in 2010 for use other than carving

I'm assuming you use filtered air with a water separator allowing the longevity of the grinders? Do you also use air tool oil? How frequent do you oil? Assuming so, how do you prevent it from contaminating the wood? Any special or specific oil used? Just curious to learn especially since I finally have a compressor to keep up with my air die grinders. I've never used them on wood though...at least not yet.

Yes Gene, I like to leave the pattern  on for its a guide for where to start carving then the depth is up to you....I have found the deeper you go the better it will look after you finish. But each part will get more carving as the other pieces are carved to match up the sides as to the amount of depth. Attach the backer board in all four corners and they need to be counter sunk for the board to slide around on the scroll saw. I also sand off any stray sticks so the wood slides easy.

  I start with the wood I prepared then put down some Scotch brand shipping tape. Scotch has lots of different tapes for different uses.. I prefer shipping tape for it seems to work better than the lighter weight stuff  The other brand of tape leaves lots of glue on the wood to be removed with lacquer thinner so the reason I use Scotch brand.. I then spray the glue on to the tape...Then lay down the pattern...  I have found if I put the glue on to the pattern it might end up sticking itself together before you ever get to install the pattern....I learned the hard way and had to go to the house and print out another pattern...I always print out 2 patterns for I have to have something to go by when most of the first pattern has been ground away... Actually I print out three patterns and file one away for later use if someone wants one like I already made.

  ..After the pattern has been installed now you can tell where the screws go to hold the center peice against the backer board...T  These screws holding the backer board against the center piece of the most important thing of the whole project. I usually put 5 to 10 screws in the middle piece of wood for every thing will go back against the center piece after the  carving and pieces finished. Then after all the carving has been finished and the coating is applied , the center piece will be glued to the backer board with the screws. Lots of times I put screws in to the outside pieces as well as I saw away from the outside of each piece.

But I have found if I flood the areas with glue the pieces will stay where they are put around the center piece. I do like to use Aleene's glue in the brown bottle for it don't run all over the place.

I counter sink all the screws with a drill bit just a hair smaller than the thread of the screw. Hold the drill bit up and just want a very small amount of threads on each side of the drill bit.

    

Dave I never use an oil injector in the air line for wood working but I do have it on the mechanic type of my work tools. I only put two or three drops of 30 weight motor oil every three months or so but no more. And I do use a water trap. And no I don't drain the pressure tank but about once a year..  I have heard guys drains their tanks every week or so but if they was to think about it there is moisture on the entire insides and just draining what little water there is in the bottom sure ain't gonna stop the rusting from happening.

 

  The little straight die grinders are much harder to keep under control where the pistol grip model is shorter and the L shape makes it much easier on my muscles. I like to start with the course 1" round Saburr bit with the 1/4" shaft and it does take a lot to control but much easier than anything else I can think of.  All of the pistol models have the  1/4"collet chuck so the bits won't go sailing across the shop.

Dave I do want to make it clear for I use 2 different hose set ups for the auto shop working and wood working.

   Also I counter sink the screw holes to attach the backer board and the loose pieces back together.  

   The drill bits I use are a hair smaller than the diameter of the sheet metal screws . To determine what size bits I hold the drill behind and only a very small amount of threads should show from both sides of the bit. I use sheet metal screws and not tapered screws because the sheet metal screws are the same diameter from top to bottom not counting the ends as they are tapered.

 Those are # 4 and # 6 bits by 1/2" and 1" are the size I use for the backer boards which determines the widths of the backer boards

Holy smoke Patch...you been squeezing that dime haven't you? It's a year older than me.

What type of bits do you use in the HF grinder?   Does it require a big compressor?   

Ed the bits comes from Wood Carvers Supply . They are in Florida.

   www.wodcarverssupply.com and they will send you a catalog. This catalog I use is a few years old and the prices are still the same but they said in a few months they will come out with a new one and for sure they will probably raise prices  Most of the bits I use are on pages 16 and 17. The angle air grinders from Harbor Freight are 1/4" collet chucks so only take 1/4" bits I also use Dremel 3000 with the flex shaft which makes it easier to handle in those tight places with very small bits.I keep 3 Dremels hanging next to where I sit to do the grinding.. This way I don't loose any time changing bits.

  I love the #3000 Dremel but most all their bits a junk for what I do. The little plastic container full of things are not used for a shop like mine. Maybe for people making miniature somethings?

  I will include numbers for all the bits I use later. Just tell them folks I sent you and I think they said they would sand me a new car.

  I know the compressors with the 20 gal tanks will work good and I would only buy the compressor with the motor and belt separate from the compressor.. I'm thinking they come at 40 and cut off at 90 lbs. This size I used for many years and had it on wheels so didn't have to have lots of lengths of air hose.  Which by the way. the long hoses will have lots of friction loss so the closer you are to the compressor the more pressure you have , Much quieter and will last many years. I did use one of the pancake type oil less junkies and are not for a wood worker. For folks putting shingles on the house are exactly for that type of use is great. With the very small air tank and you would have to stop and wait for the air to build back up too often... and the water trap is a must for me and don't use an inline oiler when grinding on wood ever, even though it will cause the tool to wear quicker but my two Harbor Freight air grinders were bought in about 2010 and get used almost every day.

  These small angle grinders are small enough to be controlled better than any straight type of grinder no matter how small of one is used.

   I did buy and use a Wen grinder with the flex shaft  just like the Dremels but did not last 1 month and had to send it in and the lady started telling wife how to change brushes and where to buy them and wife kept saying its under warranty so where do I send it...we sent it in anyway  and did finally get it back and it run good for a couple of months then lost all its power so now its only good for the smoothing bits which are round diamond bits that don't take any power to use these little smoothing bits. The picture shows about all the bits I use daily.

  I have 2, 1 X 42" belt-disk sanders I use about as much as what's in the picture plus a 9" oscillating spindle sander, floor model.